My Plywood Build 250 Gallon

Pharaoh

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I would go with the original overflow design if I was building it. The PVC setups looks as though it would be inclined to clog. Fiberglassing wouldn't be that much more difficult than creating the PVC skimmer design that you have.


I'm not sure if you left them out for visual purposes, but you are going to want to have cross bracing across the tank in order to reinforce against the weight of the water.


Muni;3681130; said:
Theres a big discussion about this on another thread. I guess the stuff worked decent. But further research would be a good idea.

Oh and Zavlar is the Canadian name. It's distributed in the USA under the brand "Permi-dry" I believe.
Correct.
 

Tilapia Buttikoferi

Gambusia
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Feb 10, 2008
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I hate these threads where people post up "Im gonna build this blaha blah.." and then they don't post up diddly squat!!

Next time have some pics of the beginning of the build ready for your first post. I despise hunting through pages of jibba jaba trying to find pics of an actual project.

If you don't have pics, don't post.
 

redm18

Feeder Fish
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Mar 3, 2009
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I hate these threads where people post up "Im gonna build this blaha blah.." and then they don't post up diddly squat!!

Next time have some pics of the beginning of the build ready for your first post. I despise hunting through pages of jibba jaba trying to find pics of an actual project.

If you don't have pics, don't post.
I like pix too but this forum isnt just to show off what you have done so far its also to get advice and bounce ideas of other people. It would be awesome if we could put a contents page on these big diy threads ie link to every big update by the op.
 

john73738

Fire Eel
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kallmond said:
How would you balance the flow between the surface skimmer and still keep enough suction on the bottom drains to keep the floor clean of debris? I thought surface skimmers were really only for saltwater tanks?
Good point, Really dont need the surface skimmer, could just be replaced with a spray bar to keep the surface free of bio film.



Pharaoh;3681312; said:
I'm not sure if you left them out for visual purposes, but you are going to want to have cross bracing across the tank in order to reinforce against the weight of the water.




Correct.
If you are talking about top bracing, Yes I just left it out. I will be bracing the top, and building a hood


Thanks have given me much to reconsider.


Tilapia Buttikoferi said:
I hate these threads where people post up "Im gonna build this blaha blah.." and then they don't post up diddly squat!!

Next time have some pics of the beginning of the build ready for your first post. I despise hunting through pages of jibba jaba trying to find pics of an actual project.

If you don't have pics, don't post
.

As was stated in the first post of this thread I have projects pertaining to my living habitat that are in need of completing before I can start the project, and as was stated by someone else, looking for wisdom and experience is what I thought MFK is all about. Last thing I want to do is dump 250 gallons of water on the floor of my rented living room.
 

Pharaoh

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Tilapia Buttikoferi;3682816; said:
I hate these threads where people post up "Im gonna build this blaha blah.." and then they don't post up diddly squat!!

Next time have some pics of the beginning of the build ready for your first post. I despise hunting through pages of jibba jaba trying to find pics of an actual project.

If you don't have pics, don't post.

Please see post #s 9 & 12 for pictures.

If you do not have something nice to say or something constructive to post, you are just adding to the length of the thread that you will have to scroll through to find pics the next time.

The OP has asked for design help and ideas. If that is what he wants to post in his thread, he is more than welcome. We all are here to learn.
 

Griller

Gambusia
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Good luck with your build John.

I have just ordered some liquid rubber for my project. It hasn't arrived yet. When I get it I'll test it with various adhesives. My project is steel, not wood but liquid rubber works for both (they say). Here is some info from my correspondance with Liquid Rubber Australia:

[FONT=&quot]Hi Alex,

Thanks for your enquiry regading using Liquid Rubber for your project.

Liquid Rubber "Zavlar" would be the product I would reccoment for this. The only issue is that silicon won't adhere. You would need to use a fast cure poly urethane e.g. Bostik FC
I would recommend checking out the alternitives to silicon for this as most waterproofing/corrosion coatings will not work with silicon.

If you have any other questions or need specific information please feel free to contact me directly via attched email address
[/FONT]
Liquid Rubber Zavlar ™ is a modified elastomeric asphalt emulsion specifically formulated to be applied by brush, squeegee or specially designed spray equipment. Liquid Rubber Zavlar ™ is a cold applied single component product designed for a wide range of protective coating applications. The product technology employed in Liquid Rubber Zavlar ™ provides a solvent free, quick setting coating that yields a membrane with excellent strength, elasticity and adhesion.
Liquid Rubber Zavlar ™ is an environmentally friendly waterproofing product which can be applied indoors and outdoors with no special protective equipment.
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hi Alex,

[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Yes the top coat is fish safe. It is certified (AS4020) by Aust water quality centre for drinking water
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] 1L for $24 (Prices are Australian)
2L for $43
4L for $79
20L for $359(Should be enough for your whole project)
Please see responses to your questions below. If you would like to purchase any simply phone our office and they will send it down for you
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Do you mean using the fast cure polyurethane as an alternative adhesive?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]As and alternitive for Silicone for fixing glass[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Could you give me a rough idea of how much it would cost to coat the entire tank inside and out with the inside acting as a seal? I can work out surface area if you need it.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]You will need approx 1L per m2[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I presume that the product is UV resistant? How long does it last outside or submerged?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]UV stable. Depending on cured membrane thickness 20+ years full UV exposure and 50+years submerged based on 2.mm DFT [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I was considering using a two part epoxy paint as an undercoat for the steel and then painting the liquid rubber over that. Can the product adhere well to epoxy paint?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]No need for epoxy. Liquid rubber does not need priming and will in fact adhere better to bare steel than epoxy.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]In this case I can silicon the windows over the epoxy and then apply the liquid rubber over the glass. Will the liquid rubber adhere to glass? [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Silicon will disolve Liquid Rubber, use poly urethane fast cure. Regular poly urethane will take up to 3 weeks before it cures through. Cannot be over coated until fully cured. Liquid Rubber will adhere to glass when fully cured. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Do you have any indication of how well this product insulates a body of water from heat loss? [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Sorry I have no R rating for our products. It would probably not make much of a difference at the thickness you would use. I do have a thermal rated top coat in colours that can be applied over Liquid Rubber that will help heat transfer by around 25% (exterior only). [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Please note Liquid Rubber only comes in black. I have a range of coloured top coats you can use if you need, including an internal one that is suitable for constant immersion. (Costs are the same as listed above.) Coverage for colour coats is approx 0.5L per m2. If you do this you can reduce the amount of Liquid Rubber by the equivelent top coat membrane thickness so m2 costs are effectively the same[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]PS Colours are White, Sandstone, Light grey, Charcoal, Blue (min 20L on all colours)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Thank you very much for your time. Your product sounds like the best option for this job.[/FONT]
 

john73738

Fire Eel
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Thanks for the info. As I understand (may be wrong) you could adhere the glass to the Liquid Rubber directly. Not getting the glass off again but would be a solution.
 

Griller

Gambusia
MFK Member
john73738;3715646; said:
Thanks for the info. As I understand (may be wrong) you could adhere the glass to the Liquid Rubber directly. Not getting the glass off again but would be a solution.
I presume so - but I haven't tried it. The guy said you can reinforce the liquid rubber in areas of stress by placing a layer of cloth (like in fibreglassing) on your first coat and then putt a second coat over the top.
 

john73738

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Send the manuf about using blue max for a tank. Here is their reply:



Thank you for your E-Mail.
This would not be a recommended application for the Ames Blue Max product.
Regards
Wayne Kukaska
Product Services Technician
Ames Research Laboratories
1891 - 16th Street S.E.
Salem. Or. 97302
Toll Free 888-345-0809 X129
Ph: 503-588-3330
Fax: 503-364-2380
Direct Line: 971-239-4176
E-Mail wayne@amesresearch.com
Office Hours: 7:30AM to 5:00PM P.S.T. Mon. thru Fri.
 
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