Yea its a test tube kit. Well I add new media almost a month ago and just got my BIO-wheel filter a week ago cause my water was foggy.
My water
- Thread starter GOOBERFISH
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Sencion88;3185000; said:
Aha. That would've been important info to have in the 1st post (not your fault). If 1 filter has brand new media and the other filter is brand new.....then your tank is going though another cycle. What did you have for filters before that? Did you take any of the old gunky media and put it in the new filters? that would be good to have done that. Some of your 'good' bacteria will have been on the tank sides, decorations, gravel, etc. That would explain the slight nitrate reading. But assuming the tank's going through another cycle (sounds like it) that would be why you have an ammonia reading that high. Keep changing water every single day. If it were me I'd do a minimum of a 50% water change every time the ammonia got up to .5 (1/2 of 1). That may be more than once a day. But that's what I'd do.
If you did re-cycle I suggest you go to a LFS and ask for some sort of start right stuff and dirty fish water and pour it directlly into your new filters. It will help add a lil good bacteria.
I'd turn off the filters and do a 100% WC to get the ammonia out and then do what I stated. But thats just me.
I'd turn off the filters and do a 100% WC to get the ammonia out and then do what I stated. But thats just me.
I wouldn't recommend putting dirty fish water from a LFS in your tank...thats just asking for an Ich (or other disease/parasite) outbreak.
Did it for a Friend with no ill effects after he made a dumb impulse buy. It's adding alot of good bacteria.
Try adding Stability to help the growth of beneficial bacteria. It gets pretty good reviews.
I wouldn't worry about ammo lock and just stick to the water changes. You should also be using a dechlorinator (water conditioner) when you add tap water, like Prime. If you're not using buckets, douse for the whole tank, if you're using buckets, douse the buckets before dumping the water in the tank.
I wouldn't worry about ammo lock and just stick to the water changes. You should also be using a dechlorinator (water conditioner) when you add tap water, like Prime. If you're not using buckets, douse for the whole tank, if you're using buckets, douse the buckets before dumping the water in the tank.
Sencion88;3185712; said:
If the pH stays at 6, you won't need Ammo-lock as the ammonia is not in the toxic form at that pH. But if your water changes bring up the pH above neutral, Ammo-lock would be very useful to detoxify any ammonia you have in there.
As the others have said, you must add a tap water conditioner to any new water you use.
