Need advice on loose bulkhead connection

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Ok, thank you all for your help.

As JK47 pointed out, these are slip fittings instead of threaded fittings. I can do threaded fittings all day long.

I will try to find some of the Chritie's Red Hot cement or I will get some new fittings to see if they will fit tighter. I don't want to cement the inside though. The way these go together, I won't be able to get the bulkhead out without destroying it, and if I ever have to, I don't want to destroy them (because in total these H2Overflows and Siphon Stopper returns were over $450). I probably could have gotten cheaper alternatives to these but I really liked these and wanted something that I thought could increase the value of the tank if I ever have to sell it.
 
Personally, I would not use teflon on slip fittings, that's intended for thread fittings. As pointed out above, what you have is a slip.

If you are fixed on using the slip I'd stick to cement since they are outside of the tank and the 90 isn't threaded to use threaded adaptor. You could also use PVC to connect the bulkhead and Barb for a tighter fit with cement. Also, as bulkheads are ABS you want to use the appropriate cement and NOT the PVC only type.
 
Fish Tank Travis said:
Ok, thank you all for your help.

As JK47 pointed out, these are slip fittings instead of threaded fittings. I can do threaded fittings all day long.

I will try to find some of the Chritie's Red Hot cement or I will get some new fittings to see if they will fit tighter. I don't want to cement the inside though. The way these go together, I won't be able to get the bulkhead out without destroying it, and if I ever have to, I don't want to destroy them (because in total these H2Overflows and Siphon Stopper returns were over $450). I probably could have gotten cheaper alternatives to these but I really liked these and wanted something that I thought could increase the value of the tank if I ever have to sell it.
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Can you post a pic of the reverse side of the bulkhead fitting (from inside the tank) so I can see how the H2O's connect to the bulkhead fitting? That may clear some of this up much more quickly.

That specific fitting is made to use cement directly into the bulkhead fitting. The downward portion of the adapter is to connect inside soft line. Not hard PVC plumbing from there. Meaning rubber hose slips onto that adapter without using cement. You use a standard hose clamp to affix the adapter to the hose. The fitting you are using will slide right into 3/4" ID rubber hose. If you do this technique you will be able to cement the adapter into the bulkhead fitting permanently and may be able to remove it in the future unharmed.

Hence the thicker cement portion. You will not need to go as deep into the bulkhead fitting so you have room for the nut to come off in the future. If this is not an option

Like this:
Bulkhead fitting to adapter = PVC cement (thick like Christies helps for thin walled material but not mandatory)
Adapter to 3/4" ID (inside diameter) rubber hose = connect via hose clamp.
Hose to pump will likely need be converted back to PVC but that is dependent upon the type pump output you have.
 
Plumbing and/or drilling a tank is a commitment for sure. It's a tough one to swallow considering what we spend on gear so I feel ya. I messed up the plumbing on one of my bulkhead fittings and when I walked around the back of my 600, it was crooked. I damn near cried....

I can plumb in my sleep so a rookie mistake was pretty frustrating. Just know anything can be fixed. See below. The design is even better now and the intakes route directly into the two pumps next to the ultimas. Trying to correct that angle with hardline was a monster pain but I got it done. It's now cleaner looking from the front. It's good that you are over thinking it now. It saves you heartache later.

InstaSize_1219223733.jpg
 
I will probably try to find some of the Christies stuff to use. Thanks for pointing out that I need a different kind of cement for the connection to the bulkhead. I didn't think about that and would have probably used regular pvc cement if I couldn't find the Christies stuff. I will probably still leave the inside fittings uncemented so that I can reuse the H2Overflows and Siphon Stopper returns. I can always buy new bulkheads if I need to. And, if the pressure happens to push apart the connections, the worst that can happen is they fall into the tank and the water just pours straight from the bulkhead until I fix it. I want to make sure I get it right so I avoid a flood on my floor. If that happens then my wife will probably insist the tank goes.
 
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You should be fine not gluing water side fittings. They are typically tight and I've not had issues.

There's also Oatey and Weld-On brands if Christies isn't readily available.
 
Fish Tank Travis said:
I will probably try to find some of the Christies stuff to use. Thanks for pointing out that I need a different kind of cement for the connection to the bulkhead. I didn't think about that and would have probably used regular pvc cement if I couldn't find the Christies stuff. I will probably still leave the inside fittings uncemented so that I can reuse the H2Overflows and Siphon Stopper returns. I can always buy new bulkheads if I need to. And, if the pressure happens to push apart the connections, the worst that can happen is they fall into the tank and the water just pours straight from the bulkhead until I fix it. I want to make sure I get it right so I avoid a flood on my floor. If that happens then my wife will probably insist the tank goes.
Click to expand...

I agree with DN328 DN328 on not cementing on the interior of the tank side bulkhead fitting. Like you said the worst that can happen is it pops off in the tank. If the holes are low and there is a power outage, the tank will drain to level of the lowest level of a submerged return or open bulkhead. If you are concerned for the wife have a look into a check valve as well. Double covered.
 
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