Need help with Nitrite spike ASAP

[Keeper of the Ropes]

Nitrite testing out to be 9.0 ppm - fish have looked like hell for days. I need a quick fix - either something available in the apartment or at Walmart (the only place open this late) that work.

 

[grmanrocks]

best remedy for mething like that is a big water changem if u need it fixed right away, sounds like a cycle issue to me tho

 

[Keeper of the Ropes]

I did a pretty decent water change recently - it has to be from that... The fish are really looking bad. Ammonia is 0 and Nitrate is 30 ppm.

 

[WyldFya]

Did you dechlor? Have you checked the test kit against another, or from tap water? The test may be bad.

 

[ChileRelleno]

First thing I would do is a major water change with conditioned water (use a quality conditioner, Prime/Amquel), then dose with salt, I'd dose at 2tblspns per 5gal intially, next day run NO2 test, water change as needed and redose at 1tblspn per 5gal.

Salt counteracts the effects of NO2 poisoning, i.e. methemoglobulin.

Disease Type: Environmental
Cause: Nitrite

Names: Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite Poisoning


Description: Nitrite poisoning follows closely on the heels of ammonia as a major killer of aquarium fish. Just when you think you are home free after losing half your fish to ammonia poisoning, the nitrites rise and put your fish at risk again. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated, elevated nitrites will soon follow. To avoid nitrite poisoning, test when setting up a new tank, when adding new fish to established an tank, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, and when medicating sick fish.
Symptoms:
Fish gasp for breath at the water surface

Fish hang near water outlets

Fish is listless

Tan or brown gills

Rapid gill movement

Also known as 'brown blood disease' because the blood turns brown from a increase of methemoglobin. However, methemoglobin causes a more serious problem than changing the color of the blood. It renders the blood unable to carry oxygen, and the fish can literally suffocate even though there is ample oxygen present in the water.
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Different species of fish tolerate differing levels of nitrite. Some fish may simply be listless, while others may die suddenly with no obvious signs of illness. Common symptoms include gasping at the surface of the water, hanging near water outlets, rapid gill movement, and a change in gill color from tan to dark brown.
Fish that are exposed to even low levels of nitrite for long periods of time suffer damage to their immune system and are prone to secondary diseases, such as ich, fin rot, and bacterial infections. As methemoglobin levels increase damage occurs to the liver, gills and blood cells. If untreated, affected fish eventually die from lack of oxygen, and/or secondary diseases.
Treatment:
Large water change

Add salt, preferably chlorine salt

Reduce feeding

Increase aeration

The addition of one half ounce of salt per gallon of water will prevent methemoglobin from building up. Chlorine salt is preferable, however any aquarium salt is better than no salt at all. Aeration should be increased to provide ample oxygen saturation in the water. Feedings should be reduced and no new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.
Nitrite is letal at much lower levels than ammonia. Therefore it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the nitrite falls to zero.
Prevention:
Stock new tanks slowly

Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food

Change water regularly

Test water regularly to catch problems early

The key to elminating fish death is to avoid extreme spikes and prolonged elevation of nitrites. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. In an established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking.
Feed fish small quantities of foods, and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove an dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small heavily stocked tanks. Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike has occured as there will be a nitrite increase later.

 

[HarleyK]

Howdy,

Do 100 % water changes as often as required to bing down nitrites. This is an emergency measure. Do not worry about disrupting the cycling. A cycled tank is of little use if all of your fish are dead.

Add biofiltration. Add bottled bacteria after every water change and as often as recommended.

Good luck,
HarleyK

 

[ChileRelleno]

Add bottled bacteria after every water change and as often as recommended.
HarleyK

What kind of Bottled Bacteria are you suggesting?
As far as I've been able to determine, 99% of the products out there are ripoffs for the unsuspecting ignorant fish-keeper, money makers for the manufacturer/retailers.
Products such as Cycle, Stress-Zyme and etc, are IMHO garbage.

There is only one product I know of that has the live beneficial bacteria needed to cycle a tank, Bio-Spira. Pretty much a one shot deal if it was stored properly and applied properly.

Curious?...................................

 

[RadleyMiller]

Water changes, prime, and aquarium salt.

 

[HarleyK]

As far as I've been able to determine, 99% of the products out there are ripoffs for the unsuspecting ignorant fish-keeper, money makers for the manufacturer/retailers.
Products such as Cycle, Stress-Zyme and etc, are IMHO garbage.
There is only one product I know of that has the live beneficial bacteria needed to cycle a tank, Bio-Spira. Pretty much a one shot deal if it was stored properly and applied properly.

I have to assume that you tried them all out yourself when you cycled tanks in the past. Because without personal experience, such a strong opinion is absolutely unwarranted.

But obviously, his current approach w/o bacteria isn't working either ...



Keeper of the Ropes, you may give one or the other bottled bacteria a shot Or even better: Transfer a dirty filter from an established tank to your new aquarium.

HarleyK

 

[Keeper of the Ropes]

Okay, *she* lol is going to do the following...

100% WC is just not going to work. My bichirs are a pain to catch and chasing them around with the net just gives them an opportunity to tear themselves to shreds slamming into the glass. I'll take it down 75-80% (or about when they start jumping) then fill with water with salt and water conditioner. Will throw in some Stress Coat cauz I love the product. Then I'll take one of the filters off and swap it with a filter from my other (healthy) 55g. I can put the filter from the first 55 in the healthy 55 to help it balance out - I will still have one good filter in that tank after I swap. I'll dose with 2T salt per 5 gal as written above, then check everything out tomorrow and repeat as necessary.

Did I get it right???