Need some help on sump plumbing for 240 - with pics

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
How would you guys suggest blocking off the 1-3/4" holes in the bottom? I don't like the plugs that are in there now, but I want something as flush fit as possible. I guess I could install a bulkhead the opposite way as usual, and plug it with a short piece of PVC and a cap, but then I'd have a piece of PVC and cap inside the overflow, which I don't like.
 
I've never actually done this...but....If the acrylic panel that makes your overfow is sealed to the tank and holds water, I would do a threaded bulkhead and a threaded PVC cap with teflon tape. I would recommend that you make the overflow tower hold water, make sure it's sealed, re-seal it if it leaks, etc. I have VERY often thanked the fish gods that the guy that made my tank made the overflow chambers seal well and not leak--I can empty the overflows with the fish in the tank, I can change bulkheads with the fish in the tank, I can remove standpipes, etc.

If not, I know that some other members here have intentionally installed a drain on their tank--like drilled a hole so they'd have a drain. Maybe you'd like to have a drain on your tank? I gotta admit, if you don't have a drip system and you're gonna be changing water on your tank once a week, it'd be really nice to just turn a valve and drain the tank into the yard.

Read Egon's build threads he talks about it, and shows how he ran drainage underneath one of his tanks. Something to think about, since your tank kinda already is drilled low like it is? Make that a drain, or if you have 2, a closed loop system maybe?
 
ragin_cajun said:
I've never actually done this...but....If the acrylic panel that makes your overfow is sealed to the tank and holds water, I would do a threaded bulkhead and a threaded PVC cap with teflon tape. I would recommend that you make the overflow tower hold water, make sure it's sealed, re-seal it if it leaks, etc. I have VERY often thanked the fish gods that the guy that made my tank made the overflow chambers seal well and not leak--I can empty the overflows with the fish in the tank, I can change bulkheads with the fish in the tank, I can remove standpipes, etc.

If not, I know that some other members here have intentionally installed a drain on their tank--like drilled a hole so they'd have a drain. Maybe you'd like to have a drain on your tank? I gotta admit, if you don't have a drip system and you're gonna be changing water on your tank once a week, it'd be really nice to just turn a valve and drain the tank into the yard.

Read Egon's build threads he talks about it, and shows how he ran drainage underneath one of his tanks. Something to think about, since your tank kinda already is drilled low like it is? Make that a drain, or if you have 2, a closed loop system maybe?
Click to expand...

The overflow holds water. I can fill the main tank all the way to the top and the area behind the overflow is bone dry. No leaks at all. So a drain won't work, unfortunately.
 
OK, so a little update...the guys on ReefCentral (posted there because of large Bean Animal thread) said this overflow is rather poor and won't act as a single body of water since there are baffles and a BeanAnimal overflow won't work properly. Can any of you think of a drain system that will work?? I realize I will probably have a large waterfall over the weir, but I'm OK with a little noise. I have a 125 gallon sump, so can handle any overflow for power outage. Thanks!
 
All are behind the weirs, so all 3 of lines are intended to go to/aimed down toward the sump. Each should be of slightly different depth as safe guards against overflowing the tank. And the open/close valve allows you to adjust flow to the sump for water noise control (gurgle).
I would not use any of them as return lines. Personally I always place return lines above the water level to the tank( to prevent back siphon during a power outage), (to increase surface agitation) and (to have water which has been filtered in the sump go back into the tank), as opposed to behind the weir where it would become redundant. I also water as much room for flow to the sump, to lessen the chance of all 3 getting plugged.
 
Yea, I know I can't use any of the holes for returns. I'm gonna drill a new one for that. I'm concerned no plumbing system will work since the overflow is separated with baffles. Or that I'll have a lot of stagnant water in two of the sections. Can anyone just recommend how to plumb this? I'd like to get it running and I can't think of anything that's a good idea.
 
All 3 should have plumbing that runs water to the sump.
If you are worried about stagnant water use all 3 at the same level, so they will all constantly be sending water to the sump.
I never drill a hole for a water line to the tank, I always run a line or 2 above the waters surface to promote gas exchange, and prevent back siphon in case of a power outage. Like the pick below.
 
Jordan said:
Yea, I know I can't use any of the holes for returns. I'm gonna drill a new one for that. I'm concerned no plumbing system will work since the overflow is separated with baffles. Or that I'll have a lot of stagnant water in two of the sections. Can anyone just recommend how to plumb this? I'd like to get it running and I can't think of anything that's a good idea.
Click to expand...

You have the challenge of using possibly available holes and existing plumbing, and, integrating with a functional overflow/drain/return approach, while aesthetically acceptable for you :-)

Drains
I would go with the already suggested recommendation to use all three existing drains to your sump. From the picture, it looks like each overflow chamber holds water separately so the "bean animal" won't actually work. You could experiment with how much each drain is open once filled just to vary the drain rate for each of the 3. I would recommend still using strainers on the end of each drain to reduce clogs.

Returns
I'm not sure why the two holes presumably used for returns are where they are. If you wanted to avoid drilling any holes, I would just run a return pipe from the sump return pump and "T" off to run back over the tank as mentioned above. I would just run it outside and behind the tank. If you are up for drilling (and a bit cleaner look), I would drill one or two holes at the bottom of the overflow (depending on where you wanted to split the return pipe and nozzles for the return line) and run the returns PVC pipe back up through the overflow then out through holes made on the weir. Make the return right under the teethe of the weir so back siphon is limited (making sure your sump can handle the back siphon, drill a hole to break siphon and/or add check valve). When looking at the front of the tank, you would see loc-lines or nozzles coming out of the weir.

This actually sounds a lot more complex than it really is. Essentially the key differences if you run the return over the tank of run it through the overflow and out the weirs. Hope that gives you some additional ideas...
 
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