Need some help Rena XP Owners!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I dont have another canister to try that with. Its a shame you would have to do that to a brand new filter though in order to prime it.
 
acc870601
Here is a pic of the XP4 rotor/impeller assy.
 
Just pulled the impeller out of one of mine. The blade spins in one direction if you hold the magnet and turn it counter clockwise, but locks in and stops if you try to turn it clockwise.
 
Pharaoh;4907548; said:
Just pulled the impeller out of one of mine. The blade spins in one direction if you hold the magnet and turn it counter clockwise, but locks in and stops if you try to turn it clockwise.

That must be my problem. When I hold my magnet it will spin freely in both directions. Thanks man!
 
Anytime!
 
Hey Eric,

Ironically, the only decent photo I can find online of the XP4 impeller assembly shows all the XP series impellers. It will work for this though:

renaxpfilterimpellers.jpg


The end of the shaft has a rubber bushing/cap that seats the assembly into the housing. If by "rubberband", you mean this cap, then yeah, it needs to be there. Possibly, the previously owner replaced the cap with an actuall rubber band...which most likely isn't going to work since it needs to be centered.

The good news is, you can buy the shaft/bearing seperately from the entire assembly. It should be less than $20. But, make sure the impeller itself is in decent shape.

When I first got mine, it almost ended up on the curb the same night. I could not figure out how to prime it. It finally dawned on me (and after watching the video several times). Once you're all set up, open the valve lever (closing the valves, just like you were going to remove the cover). Begin adding water to the "tee" assembly at the top of the intake. Hopefully you got the funnel with it or have one available.

Once your intake line is full up to the tee, cap it off. Then, close the valve lever (opening the valves). The intake line water draining into the canister should form a suction, syphoning water into your intake. Let it sit like this for a couple of minutes, then fire it up. Make sure your lines are fairly straight and without any kinks.

Good luck :)

(Edit: Wow, several replies in the time it took me to type this! :) Gotta love MFK!)
 
CLDarnell;4907605; said:
(Edit: Wow, several replies in the time it took me to type this! :) Gotta love MFK!)

lol yeah, thanks so much for the reply though man, I appreciate it. I think pharoah has got me straightened out though. With the rotor spinning freely, theres nothing to actually force the water up.

And the whole rubber band thing they had up there was an actual rubberband. I think they were trying to use it to rig it up so that the rotor would actually catch...FAIL
 
v3n0m;4907142; said:
I dont have another canister to try that with. Its a shame you would have to do that to a brand new filter though in order to prime it.

Well you dont really have a brand new filter so part of your problem stems from that. Ive never had an issue with all the renas ive had. I got tired of messing with fluvals and replaced them. If you dont have the funnel a quicker way Ive found to prime it is to use my powerhead to push water into the intake and blast all the air out. I would say I only have to prime it about 20 percent of the time though. most of the time it just starts right up so I think once you get your impeller replaced you will be fine.
 
SemperFish;4908928; said:
Well you dont really have a brand new filter so part of your problem stems from that. Ive never had an issue with all the renas ive had. I got tired of messing with fluvals and replaced them. If you dont have the funnel a quicker way Ive found to prime it is to use my powerhead to push water into the intake and blast all the air out. I would say I only have to prime it about 20 percent of the time though. most of the time it just starts right up so I think once you get your impeller replaced you will be fine.

Unless I take the hosing off of the tank, I have only ever primed them once.
 
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