need suggestions from some professionals

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
you should have 2 1/2-5 watts per gallon of water, so for a 125 you should have 312-625 watts...that depends on your house temperature. If the tank is say in a basement where the ambient temp. differs a lot, then I'd go with a higher rating, if the air around the tank is close to the temp. you want the tank at, go for the lower rating. But I would suggest #1 with oscars, either have a heater guard or a titanium heater, and #2 also it's better to have a couple smaller heaters throughout the tank than 1 big one. I would think 2 200 watt heaters would be sufficient, unless your house is really cold, then I would get 3 150-200 watt heaters. And if you don't feel like springing for titanium heaters with the oscars, after you get the sump set up, you can put your glass heaters in there and no one will be able to attack them.

and as for sand, if you like the color of regular sand, with a sump, play sand won't be as big of a deal as it is with canisters/hobs so don't be afraid of using the cheap play sand because of that if you like that color (play sand is $3 for 50lbs at lowes). I recommended colorquartz because i like black sand and moon sand is EXPENSIVE....and if you don't want the "dirty" part of the play sand, pool filter sand isn't much more...just make sure you rinse the sand real well, and you'll love it, it is much easier to maintain. I put the sand in a 5 gallon bucket and use the hose to stir it up until the water coming out runs clear, which can take a long time with play sand I've heard, but after that everyone is happy with it (except for the getting into the hob/canister filters)....
 
cool
i feel like i actually know what im going to do now...
thanks for all your help guys...im going to look somethings over and here about these sumps...im still trying to get the jist of them....im going to be building a stand...and the sump housing by myself...so i guess ill worry about constructing the stand and the sump first then go from there....

im thinking about maybe even going 150 gallon...all this work might as well upgrade another couple gallons right?
 
IMO any excuse for a bigger tank is a good excuse for me :headbang2:headbang2:headbang2

also, if you plan on making your sump and stand, you might want to look at my diy thread, we did the same thing you are talking about doing, where the sump is built into the stand. We framed in the sump tank (which is completely made out of plywood) and then just threw drylok on it, since it's framed in it certainly shouldn't bow anywhere....

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95821

glad to be able to help....
 
ziggy2;1260878; said:
There are some good post on W/D sump in the DIY section. Do a search and you will find everything you need. Good luck.

I run a sump and they are great. Well worth the effort.



I run a sump in my 125g with no problems too
 
UPDATE!!!!!
I promise i will post lots of pics tonight as soon as my camera is here!!!!

thanks to everyone here at MFK i have started my setup. I have purchased a 125 gallon long tank and its ready to get some water and fish in it ASAP... so heres the deal...

I built the stand myself...just got that done yesterday
I built my sump out of a plastic drawer, sponges, scrubbies, and here soon some extra bioballs just for a little extra media...All of this is in a 30 gallon tank and ready to go.
(without the pump)...will elaborate in a second.

I also have a pvc pipe overflow that i also built yesterday

to get on with the point here...i need some help from you guys...ive gotten this far with researching and reading what all of you have done and with the specifac help of some other people...but now i just need some help getting this tank up and running.

Q1. Now that i have the overflow built...what type of pipe is best to run from the nozzle i built...(right after the ball valve)....to flow into the top of my sump? I mean pvc pipe should be fine...but since the sump is in a difficult place to move around...would a flexible pipe be better...if so what the heck is that pipe called?

Q2. Does it matter where the water level is in my sump?...obviously the point of a wet/dry is so that all the media isn't buried under the water...but it should be ok if some is buried, right?

Q3. what size pump do you think would be ok for my setup? Im having trouble figuring out how to tell what you need. Im assuming there is something to do to restrict flow of the output....like if i had too big of a pump...it would pump too much out of the sump befor the water can have time to siphon down the sump....???im a little confused with how that would work...maybe someone could break it down into dumb people terms.

Q4. Once i do get a pump, what kind of line do i run back up into the tank? so far i have been doing everything myself so im guessing i need to make some type of nozzle for the return into the tank...this is something i cant find much help on...a lot of sump, and overflow builds...but not much info on the return part...

I think thats it for now ... like i said im going to post pics as soon as i can...ill let you guys critique me and my builds...if you think i need to do something different...im all ears...i like doing this stuff myself but i wanna do things right...any input will help me...thanks guys i know you wont let me down!!!

thanks
kenny
 
Good Job Levick. Sounds like your almost up and running. Theres no one right way to do things and everyone will have a slightly diferent approach. I did a similar tank a while back so I will share what I done with it and try to answer your 4 questions.

Q1 answer: I used thin wall 1" pvc. if you need it flexible at some piont get 1.25" clear vinyl hose from lowes or HD. I also used this from the pump for about 2 feet then plugged the 1" pvc into it. just run hot water over the end of the vynle hose to make it plyable then slip it over your pvc a few inches. I would not use a ball valve on the return.

Q2 answer: yes. the only thing I'll ad is when you turn off your pump you want enough room in sump for water from tank to not overflow your sump. This just takes experimentation with water level.

Q3 answer: Most people will say 4 to 10 times turnover per hour of your tank volume is what you should aim for. On a 125 gallon that means 500 GPH to 1250 GPH. Just make sure your over flow is higher volume than your pump at 4 feet of head. NOTE* your return will only flow as much as your pump gives it. Unless the overflow is too small. example- 500 GPH pump and a 600 GPH overflow is OK because only 500 GPH will ever see the tank to overflow. (likewise a 1000 GPH pump and a 1200GPH overflow) You can always add a second overflow if needed or put a ball balve after the pump to slow it.

Q4 answer: Just get the water back in the tank. I have used a spray bar (DIY). I have plumbed the return to under gravel jets. I have used the return like a waterfall. Once again, no one best way.

There is alot of folks here with way more experienced than I. Get all the input you can. One thing I want to mention, Dont forget to cycle your tank.
 
I didnt mean literally get water and fish in now...i just mean i wanna get this all up and running...haha..but anyway thanks Ric Foster, you answered basically every question...I guess i will try and use pvc for the most part (probably cheaper)...

i dont mean to sound dumb, but when u say "make sure my overflow is higher volume thatn my pump at 4 feet of head....i dont really understand what that means.

also why not use a ball valve on return? bad for the motor?

and i will check out the DIY pray bar and see if i have any questions on that

thanks a lot...pics will be up soon
 
heres some pics
i have more of the stand build if someone would wanna see step by step for the frame...i have to admit i copied the origional stand design somewhere else on here...and kinda beefed it up and made the joices on the top a lot stronger...please give me any input u can...

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by the way...frame for the stand- 35 bucks (roughly)
cost of the stand when totally done-100 bucks (roughly)
cost of overflow- 15 bucks
cost of tank brand new- 350 bucks
cost of sump(minus the tank which i already had)-20 bucks
 
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