Need to build sump for 180. Let's see those sump designs

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aussieman57

Aimara
MFK Member
Nov 11, 2021
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Like the title says I need to build or purchase a sump for my 180 build. Would like to see your sump designs or commercial sumps you are using. Also need to get an idea how big I need to build this for a 180 gallon tank that will either be SA or CA Cichlid tank. Ideas on which submersible pump would also be nice. Thanks for your help.
 
Sump design, and pump size have a lot to do with the type fish kept.
If you want fish that require heavy flow, like some more high saturated oxygen using Geophagines, or rheophillic Central Americans, the sump might need to be large enough to handle more water volume, and heavier flow, without sucking dry in certain situations.
When I was using a 40 gal sump, but a 1000 + GPH pump, I was always worried some anomalylike a plant plugged drain pipe or..... would create a dry out situation.
This is why I now use a 125 gal tank as my sump/refugium.
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I also don't use baffles, except a porrett foam barrier to separate the pump/biomedia area, from the larger refugium section..
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My fish are riverine, so I like a lot of flow.
If I was keeping ox-bow/placid water species, I might skimp more on the pump, and sump size.
But when in the states, I often ran up to 5 tanks on a single sump, so my pump preferences were always on the more powerful side, and I could regulate strength of flow to different tanks with only a valve on each tank.
I always wanted the option to go up or down, according to a changing situation. One size doesn't fit all
That's also why I didn't use permanent baffles, that could restrict change, and also got in the way when doing maintenance.
 
Nice setup on the big tank. Appreciate the offer but I really want to build my own. Thanks for the pics & ideas.
 
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One of the great things about using a large tank for a sump, as opposed to one of the small commercial sumps, that only holds maybe 20 gallons, (lots of room as is the case in ADawson 23's 130 gal sump) is the room to catch lots of water, in case of power failure.
I drill my tanks about 3" from the rim, which means during a Power outage, quite a bit of water (almost 50 gallons) will overflow by gravity into the sump.
I also helps keep a submersible pump submerged in case an overflow gets partially plugged.
If the pump gets starved of water, it is easily burned out.
 
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I was planning on building a sump for the 180 tank with a 40 breeder. My other option would be to use a 55 gallon food grade drum (which I have) but not sure how that would be to service and plumb. At this stage I think I prefer to use a spare aquarium for a sump so I can see what's going on and easily service the sump.
 
I agree with duanes duanes (as usual ?) about more open sump design. I use my 150 as a sump for the 450 and I drilled it to go to drain. Being on a well I had a spigot and mixing valve installed and water changes ar as simple as turning a valve on

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Here's my sump I designed and built for my 925lt Amazonian Cichlid tank build. The sump came with the tank, but I didn't like the baffle locations and chamber sizing's so I cut it all out and started fresh.

Water enters to the left at the top, tickles through some floss and Jap mat, runs left to right then down through more floss and jap mat. in the first chamber.
Then water goes up and over into 1 last layer of jap mat, 6lt of Biopure Ceramic balls and 12lt of Pond & Regular Matrix. 2x 250W Eheim Jager Heaters sit under this media with eggcrate spacing the media above the heaters. Water flows down through the ceramic media then heaters then into the next chamber, so its not heating the water then flowing over this ceramic media. (This is also part of the reason I want to be able to turn the pump up and flow more water through is so there's no "hotspots" created from the heaters, explained later on.) I live in Perth and my heaters really don't do a lot of work except for a few weeks in the middle of winter when it does get cold, so I'm not worried about overheating media in the sump having the heaters run non stop to try and keep the system to 25deg.
From there water goes up and over into K1 fluidized bed with 25lt of K1. Then lastly water flows up and through jap mat (to stop the k1 getting stuck / going through to the return chamber) and through more floss for water polishing. This baffle is also twice as thick as the others, so if I want to add some Carbon or Purigen it will go in there so the water is more likely to pass through it, rather than just sitting in the return chamber. Then into the return chamber.

I decided to go with all Ecotech equipment, which ill admit, is overkill (Vectra M2 Pump, 2x MP40QD and Battery Backup) but its my dream build so whatcha' gon' do?!.

The sump runs silent and flows really well. The system is restrained by the size of the overflow delivering water to the sump at the moment, so I'm going to make a few more changes including adding a Shadow overflow to get better flow into the sump and then I can turn the pump up. its only running at about 40% at the moment, id like to get it to around 60% to get good water turn over. Plus at the moment it only has 1 drain line to the sump, so id like to have some security built in and go to a bean animal style overflow (2 drain lines and 1 emergency). I haven't added any fish etc. yet to really test it but I did a lot of research and this designed combined all the best bits I found and wanted to try. Goodluck with your build!

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