I didn't mean to, but after I got a small tank (29g) running, I put about 5 pounds of old dead coral in for decoration. My Alkalinity went sky high, and my ph went up about 1.2
Need to Raise my pH
- Thread starter Razor7Music
- Start date
I don't pre-heat the water, if that's what you mean. It's room temperature when I put it in. The aquarium heater thermostat rarely even kicks in after a 25% water change.tcarswell;2748692;2748692 said:
Thanks for the recommendation. I am just about out of test strips and will keep that in mind when I buy my next test kit.BarroomHero;2748693;2748693 said:
Chlorine and other impurities. Our tap water isn't too good out here. Tastes yucky too. My understanding is the water I'm buying is tap but has been run through carbon filters. Saves me the time and I can keep a number of gallons on hand--ready to go at a moment's notice.msjinkzd;2748700;2748700 said:
Thanks for that. I'll just put a little in a nylon bag in the filter compartment.mriversinco;2748832;2748832 said:
Razor7Music;2748960; said:
It may or may not raise your ph depending on you gh & kh. I have crushed coral in a media bag in one of my filters and I changed my substrate to crushed coral (this was done 4-5 months ago), it hasnt changed my ph at all.
That's interesting. So far the only quantities I can get at my LFS is a 15 lb bag so I may hold off on it for a little while...BarroomHero;2749036;2749036 said:
No you don't.
Unless you're fish are wild caught, they will appreciate a stable pH over chasing a "target pH". Breeding them would be the only reason I would consider changing pH.
Filtering through crushed coral works, I did it when I was breading shell dwellers. I then switched to SeaChem's line of rift lake buffers (they have malawi, victoria, and tanganyika) and work work fantasically. It's more of a natural buffer that raises kH and gH and if you accidentally add too much it just flocculates (clumps up) and either falls to the bottom or gets caught in the filter.
If you're worried about tap water, a really good water conditioner will take care of most problems. Prime will take care of chlorine, chloramines, ammonia/nitrogen byproducts (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) and lock up heavy metals.
I guess you can tell I am a fan of the company SeaChem.
Unless you're fish are wild caught, they will appreciate a stable pH over chasing a "target pH". Breeding them would be the only reason I would consider changing pH.
Filtering through crushed coral works, I did it when I was breading shell dwellers. I then switched to SeaChem's line of rift lake buffers (they have malawi, victoria, and tanganyika) and work work fantasically. It's more of a natural buffer that raises kH and gH and if you accidentally add too much it just flocculates (clumps up) and either falls to the bottom or gets caught in the filter.
If you're worried about tap water, a really good water conditioner will take care of most problems. Prime will take care of chlorine, chloramines, ammonia/nitrogen byproducts (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) and lock up heavy metals.
I guess you can tell I am a fan of the company SeaChem.
Me too. I wasted time with the product Cycle when my nitrites were off the chart, and I had an open ticket with Hagen that was useless. I then found out the the amount of bacteria in Cycle is 3%. What a waste. I then did some research and used Prime--now I'm a believer too.cassharper;2749696;2749696 said:
Great point on the stable pH. The fish are happy--I don't want to breed them, and I heard a real quick way to kill fish is to drastically change their pH. For all those reasons, I have decided that when it comes time to buy more filter media, I am going to just buy media bags and use crushed coral. Then, if I ever need to remove meds, I can pop in the carbon media.
Thanks m8
