NEEED HELPPP new pvc overflow

[bitteraspects]

lol.
or you could fashion a piston bleeder out of an old turkey baster.
that works too

the point was only that the check valve itself does not expel air from the pipe, and that it must be manually removed. either by mouth, or some other type of manual action. while adding an "aqualifter" or powerhead will do it for you, providing not only an extra failafe, but also added circulation (if you go the powerhead route)

 

[nolapete]

You could stand by your tank with a plastic cup and scoop the water out of your tank and pour it in your sump. You could use your shop vac to get it out of the sump then dump the shop vac into your tank.

 

[nolapete]

clearly you don't understand the function of an aqualifter.
Even a "properly designed" overflow risks cavitation. The whole point of the check valve and airline is so you can manually remove excess air from the pipe periodically. (manually of course meaning, sucking on the airline until you get all the bubbles out. this also leaves you with mouthfuls of tank water).
The aqualifter provides this same function without drinking tankwater in the process.
if you don't want to buy an actual aqualifter, you can simply connect the airline to the venturi of a powErhead (of you happen to have one already). It basically provides the same function, while also helping with circulation. A properly placed powerhead can increase the mechanical function of your surface skimming PVC overflow exponentially.

If you're into drinking tankwater, its absolutely not "necessary" to have an aqualifter or powerhead.
But considering it will only benifit your system to add a powerhead, which many people already have lying around, there's no reason not to add it.

I understand an aqualifter because I happen to own a piece of crap CPR overflow that requires one not to cavitate. My pvc overflows have been running over a year and never cavitate.

I check them about once every 3 or 4 months and use a piece of tubing attached to the check valve to suck the air out. There's usually NONE in them. With a long enough piece of tubing you don't have to drink tank water.

What you've said is absolutely unnecessary on a "PROPERLY DESIGNED" and built PVC overflow. If you're getting lots of air in your pvc overflow, you have a leak or it's designed or built WRONG!

 

[bitteraspects]

Bahahahah. Whatever you say kid.
Like I said. Clearly you don't get it.
Of maybe you do, seeing as you said yourself

I check them about once every 3 or 4 months and use a piece of tubing attached to the check valve to suck the air out.

Must not be "PROPERLY DESIGNED", as you so eloquently put it. or why bother checking at all.

between low flow trickle filters, algae build up/ nitrate bubbles, movement of your fish, and the air/water mixture at the mouth of the intake, youre bound to get air in the pipe. otherwise, why install the check valve at all?

one day youll get it

 

[nolapete]

Bahahahah. Whatever you say kid.
Like I said. Clearly you don't get it.
Of maybe you do, seeing as you said yourself


Must not be "PROPERLY DESIGNED", as you so eloquently put it. or why bother checking at all.

between low flow trickle filters, algae build up/ nitrate bubbles, movement of your fish, and the air/water mixture at the mouth of the intake, youre bound to get air in the pipe. otherwise, why install the check valve at all?

one day youll get it

I'm not a kid. All you're being is argumentative now. I bother checking because I'm not an idiot that assumes everything is perfect. I install a check valve to remove air when I initially prime them and to remove any bubbles that possibly get in. I never said no air ever gets in. I said a "properly designed" overflow doesn't need an aqualifter, powerhead, etc. to make sure it stays primed.

 

[redtailshark1]

ok shut up its my turn to speek!!!!!!!
Look at my profile pic
<---------
See that the inside pipe is not right down to the bottom
one night we got a bit drunk and built it but did not have enough pipe so we made it short but did not glue the inside joints so that it can be changed when the tank is set up (it is not).
my point is take the tube to the bottom and set rthe T half way up and you shouldnt have any large problems with air.
once again ssssssshhhhhhhhh

 

[bitteraspects]

I'm not a kid. All you're being is argumentative now. I bother checking because I'm not an idiot that assumes everything is perfect. I install a check valve to remove air when I initially prime them and to remove any bubbles that possibly get in. I never said no air ever gets in. I said a "properly designed" overflow doesn't need an aqualifter, powerhead, etc. to make sure it stays primed.

like i said...
one day youll get it

 

[CHOMPERS]

It's true that design errors have been to blame, but gasses do build up in low flow systems. It comes from the bacteria's respiration (off gassing). It happens only in mature systems here a high bacteria population has had a chance to grow in the overflows. In high flow systems the gasses remain dissolved and do not have a chance to form into bubbles and collect in the upper loop. And I have no idea at what flow rate where the sweet spot is. I was running them at 25-35% capacity and they would need to be purged every 2-3 weeks. In very high flow systems, the problem encountered is vortexing at the intake and sucking in air. Normally they tend to be self purging at these rates though. However, there have been people that had problems keeping them running

 

[nolapete]

like i said...
one day youll get it

Maybe, but one thing is for certain; YOU NEVER WILL!