New 180g expansion!!

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hart24601

Piranha
MFK Member
Nov 24, 2015
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Hey all, due to some crazyness I am getting a free Miracles aquarium. It's 6x2x2 - starfire front and sides, external overflow and eurobraced. It's a $2,500 tank new, so I am quite happy! I figure this a good place to document the setup.

I am putting it next to my Miracles 3/4" 120 rimless, that was previously a reef tank, then discus (nothing but trouble with them - Iowa tap water?), and now fahaka puffer tank:

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/discus-from-iowa.654349/

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/new-fahaka-the-best-fahakaing-puffer-ever.658992/

Anywho I decided to plump the two tanks together. That way I can use the single sump drain and not put another hole in the wall, plus the horizontal run would be a bit long. I am connecting the two sumps with the UV output, it's only around 100gph, so it will be very low flow between the systems.

I decided to get a marineland black stand, I have used them before and didn't want to try making my own for this project.

Because of Iowa water I use RO/DI system now and reminerlize the water. I have 2 44g brutes plumbed at the bottom and a masterflex variable speed pump that is hooked up to the APEX. Right now I change out 9g/day over 24hr. (10min at the top of each hour) It's nice because I can siphon out crud and let the pump fill the sumps back up. I should have cleaned up the back room before the photo.IMG_7545.JPG



I already had this free next reef 30g sump. It had shipping damage but I fixed it with weldon, but since it was damaged it was free!

IMG_7520.JPG

Drilled a 40 breeder to go with it, connected with just a single 1" bulkhead, but since it's passive there shouldn't be any problem. Ran the UV output with a longer braided hose into the new sump. Drilled a hole in the euro brace for it, I might get a 90 barbed fitting for that spot though. I also drilled the 120 sump and connected the two with 1" pipe with ball valves leaving each sump so I can disconnect and run separate if I want.

2.jpg 5.jpg
 
Since it's rimless it has to have a flat bottom, not the marineland supports. You can see above I already removed those. I had home depot cut me some oak plywood to fit the top and used oil based paint on it. 1st pic is the connection. After the ball valves there are unions and straight PVC. I think it looks pretty clean really.

1.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg
 
interesting. not sure i trust a brute. but have only used for trash at work, so, hey what do i know, interested to see how this goes.
 
yes it does look clean I like it. because it is rimless i would put a thin foam or just thin card board down between the tank and the stand.
 
The next thing I am working on... I ordered driftwood from manzanita-driftwood, a delicate but large piece. I am thinking I want a single male hystrix ray or a mini marble pair with something like silver dollars or rainbow fish. So I was after a piece that doesn't take up floor space.

I epoxied it to a rock, and wasn't thrill 100% with the end joint, so I went out and found some more small pieces to epoxy along with it. Quite happy with the result. But it was pretty silly to hold it there for the epoxy to dry!

I will still put some java fern on it, but it looks nice, hard to capture though.IMG_7564.JPG IMG_7565.JPG IMG_7566.JPG IMG_7567.JPG

IMG_7568.JPG
 
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interesting. not sure i trust a brute. but have only used for trash at work, so, hey what do i know, interested to see how this goes.

I used them for years for reef tanks as have many others. They are good to go food grade.
 
well there you go. :)
 
yes it does look clean I like it. because it is rimless i would put a thin foam or just thin card board down between the tank and the stand.

Yes, Miracles says to put foam down, there is foam under the 120, that was my project today, I cut some foam to fit and painted it black. Lowes blue foam - approved by Miracles.
 
Hart, you seem to have it all well in hand, :)
 
and love the wood.
 
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