New 265 Incoming!! Overflow, Sump, Equip Expertise requested

[gatormfk]

Hi All,
Was time to upgrade to something bigger for my predator tank (silver aro, kelberi Pb, and clownknife) and just put a deposit on a “new to me” 265 with a 130 sump setup.

Sumps are new to me, but since it’s a package I’m going to give it a whirl. I’m planning on buying the Aqueon overflow kits for the dual overflow, and the sump already has the baffles and two bio ball areas.

Would love your suggestions on other media and where to place in the sump, as well as heater, UV, and pump suggestions!

Also thinking the display tank to be sand substrate with rock and driftwood. Any suggestions on type of rock and where to aquire.

Including a link to the tank. Will be painting stand/canopy white. Please excuse the language in the video (reseller music)

Thanks!

 

[Oughtsix]

Nice looking tank! I was hard to tell much about the sump design from the video.

My general rule is to put mechanical filtration first in the sump so the debris doesn't cover the bio filtration.

I would put mechanical filtration in the first compartment whether it be socks, floss, sponges, matts or other. To me the most important part of sump design is that the mechanical filtration be easy to pull, clean and replace so it happens often.

If the bio media is going to be submerged I like to put air wands/stones underneith it, It is nice to have the bio media in a mesh bag so it can be pulled easily allowing you to clean the sump under it.

 

[duanes]

Are you sure you need overflow kits?
If the tank was set up with the sump, everything should already be there.
Are there holes drilled somewhere in th tank glass? Maybe inside the overflow weirs?
Isn't a pump included?
The two holes in the sump look like places to hang filter socks for mechanical, although as said above, not really clear in the video.

 

[gatormfk]

Nice looking tank! I was hard to tell much about the sump design from the video.

My general rule is to put mechanical filtration first in the sump so the debris doesn't cover the bio filtration.

I would put mechanical filtration in the first compartment whether it be socks, floss, sponges, matts or other. To me the most important part of sump design is that the mechanical filtration be easy to pull, clean and replace so it happens often.

If the bio media is going to be submerged I like to put air wands/stones underneith it, It is nice to have the bio media in a mesh bag so it can be pulled easily allowing you to clean the sump under it.

Would you add any kind of chemical

Nice looking tank! I was hard to tell much about the sump design from the video.

My general rule is to put mechanical filtration first in the sump so the debris doesn't cover the bio filtration.

I would put mechanical filtration in the first compartment whether it be socks, floss, sponges, matts or other. To me the most important part of sump design is that the mechanical filtration be easy to pull, clean and replace so it happens often.

If the bio media is going to be submerged I like to put air wands/stones underneith it, It is nice to have the bio media in a mesh bag so it can be pulled easily allowing you to clean the sump under it.

In your experience are socks or floss/sponges the way to go for the intake? Seems to me (have no experience) that the socks would be easier to quick pull out just from looking at some set ups

 

[gatormfk]

Are you sure you need overflow kits?
If the tank was set up with the sump, everything should already be there.
Are there holes drilled somewhere in th tank glass? Maybe inside the overflow weirs?
Isn't a pump included?
The two holes in the sump look like places to hang filter socks for mechanical, although as said above, not really clear in the video.

The display tank is drilled two holes on each back corner for the overflows. The tank is used and comes with the sump but without accessories, so no bulkheads/piping, heater/uv/etc, or return pump(s).

I was thinking it looks like it’s for socks as well, then second baffle for bio balls, then the big middle chamber which I would think heat and UV, then another small ball section that I was thinking to replace with Purigen bags, then return chamber.

Grabbed some stills from the video, but may have to wait until I actually pick up in 2 weeks.

 

[gatormfk]

Beyond the different types of mechanical, anyone have recommendations on a heater, uv sterilizer, and pump(s)?

I’m thinking I’ll run dual return pumps rather than one for redundency.

 

[DN328]

Congratulations on your new tank. It can be a lot of (meticulous) work to set up, especially if you are OCD like me LOL.

Here's some suggestions and what I'd think about doing. There's a lot of info about where and what to buy, but you will want to get an idea of what you want to do for YOUR situation. We can go on and on in much more detail in anyone of these topics, but this is just some ideas. Based on what you decide, my suggestion would be go deeper into understanding what you'll need to do in more detail. This is just what I'd do, there's probably about a thousand variations.

Dual overflow and Drain:
* I don't think you need to buy "kit" for the drains. Buy needed bulkheads and PVC for the holes in the overflow. I would set it up as a HERBIE. That is, each overflow will have a full siphon drain, and a secondary trickle/emergency drain. For the full siphon drains, add a strainer to block any larger objects. With dual overflows, it can be challenging to dial in, but I know many folks on here have this set-up and it works great was dialed in. The trick will be to drain both overflows back to where you have the filer socks in the sump.

Sump:
Mechanical: I'm a fan of filer socks and I'd go with that for mechanical especially since you already have holders in the sump. It looks to be easy maintenance too,

Bio: It appears the bio-balls would be fully submerged and not a trickle filter based on the pictures. IMO, that's not a problem as bio-balls would still work. BUT, if that were me, I would get marine pure balls or blocks or any of the dozens of other options for submerged media. I would put in that chamber. Or you could just put the bio filtration in the larger chamber and that should be good too - do both if you want. i would just ditch the small chamber with bio-balls, if you do it right it's not needed. It doesn't hurt, but I don't think you need it. Hard to tell from the picture, but you could use that for some polishing pads.

Heater/Return PUMP: Put heaters in the sump. Essentially there are the titanium heaters will you need a separate controller OR ones with their own thermostat, BUT you'll want to also include a separate controller for redundancy. Many on here prefer DC pumps. Off the top of my head I think of about 8 DC pump brands. DC pumps will allow you to control the outflow without the need of ball valves. With the return pump, The volume and size of pump will be based on how much turnover you want for your tank. You'll want to think about how you want to run the return plumbing BACK INTO the TANK. the easiest way without additional holes would be to go over the wall and in the tank directly.

I have used stand alone UV, but not inline. Honestly, you may not need this and unless you plan to doing inline with your plumbing, I would just hold off on this for now and prioritize other things above. Oh, I personally do not use chemical filtration of any kind of carbon for operation. IMO, you don't need it. Others may have varying opinions so may have more ideas for you there IF you want to go that way.

Hopefully, this offers a few ideas for you to think through ; - )

 

[Oughtsix]

Aquarium pumps: I really like the Jeboa variable flow DC aquarium pumps.

Heater(s): I picked up a Hygger about 6 months ago. I am much more impressed with it than my Eheim heaters. Like DN328 suggested the Hygger heater I bought has a control box further up the cable for setting the temperature... this is a really nice feature.

Media: I prefer filter socks also but your sump doesn't look like it would be easy to retrofit with filter socks. I would remove the bioballs from the second compartment and replace them with a a big chunk of coarse aquarium filter sponge that fills up the compartment. This will provide a good first level mechanical filter that you should be able to pull out of the second compartment easily to clean. Debis will build up in the bottom of the first compartment under the tank "water in" pipes. You will need to wipe this up periodically.

I would collect all the bio balls and put them in a mesh bag in the third compartment (The first wide compartment) with an air stone underneath them. A mesh bag would be a must so you can pull them easily and clean underneath them. Bio balls clean pretty easily, just dunking the bag of them in tank water and swirling them around a bit will knock off most of the gunk. I would then put a piece of finer filter sponge in the fourth (narrow) compartment for water polishing. You could also try filter floss here but I think a fine sponge would be easier to clean.

In the 5th compartment I would put a big bag of sintered balls, ceramic rings, lava rock or other similar bio media on top of some more air stones / wands.

I would put your pumps in the last (7th) compartment. I would put your heater(s) in the narrow sixth compartment if they will fit or put them in the 7th compartment. You could also put the heater in one of the prior compartments if it works out better for easier maintenance.


There many different approaches to effective sump design. The above is just an off the top of my head suggestion. Design your sump so it is easiest for you to maintain.

I agree with DNA328, bio balls are great for trickle filters but not the best media for submerged applications. Since you have them you might as well make use of them though. I think the third compartment makes the most sense for the bio balls because you can pull out the mesh bag full of them and clean off the gunk pretty easily.

I don't use any chemical filtration (carbon, purigen, etc.) It is good for smoothing out water parameters when you are setting up a tank or treating a issue but I don't think it makes sense for long term filtration. A mesh bag of carbon in the sixth compartment after the tank has cycled when you start adding fish might be a good idea. The carbon will absorb some on the initial pollutants when the first round of stock is added then the carbon will loose effectiveness over time as the bacterial colonies work their way up to the needed levels for your stocking.

P.S. I looks like you are going to have two pipes / hoses bringing tank water into the first compartment. If you use hoses that you could pull up easily you could rubber-band a coarse filter sock (the type of filter sock without a rigid rim) over the end of the incoming hoses for some initial mechanical filtration to catch come of the big stuff. I would only do this if it were easy to pull the socks and clean them regularly though. Easy to maintain is the number one thing I strive for!

 

[gatormfk]

Really appreciate all the advice. On the herbie vs dorso set up, I think I’d prefer to use the two holes in each overflow for one drain and one return rather than having to do over the top return.

I know there are some concerns folks have about flood (which is why they do herbie (plus quiet)), but couldn’t I avoid any worry of flooding if the drain is set high enough in the overflow in which the sump could absorb a couple inch drop? It’s a 130 sump on a 265 tank...

 

[DN328]

Really appreciate all the advice. On the herbie vs dorso set up, I think I’d prefer to use the two holes in each overflow for one drain and one return rather than having to do over the top return.

I know there are some concerns folks have about flood (which is why they do herbie (plus quiet)), but couldn’t I avoid any worry of flooding if the drain is set high enough in the overflow in which the sump could absorb a couple inch drop? It’s a 130 sump on a 265 tank...

The issue with not having an e-drain isn't to address your sump being able to handle the backflow to the sump when the pump is off- although good you are thinking about that too.

The second drain is so if your main drain is constrained and not able to take on the water being returned from the sump. In the worst case scenario the water will overflow from your tank. Having said this, the strainer added to the main siphon drains will help the risk.