New 300 Gallon tank

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
For my low buget 220 wide future planted project I plan on using 26 watt cfl spiral bulbs for lighting. I plan on making a hanging plywood box and mount 6-8 of the bulbs in the hanging hood/box. I figured it would cost around 150 bucks max for everything including 8 bulbs, 8 sockets, box of wire, sheet of 1/4" ply, quart black paint, 8 metal reflectors.

Several people have used simular set up's with very good results.

The most important aspect of a planted tank build is the light set up. For a large tank like these around 1+ watt per gallon will be good to grow alot of plant species. As long as the spectrum is right (6000 -10,000k rating). Also for every 12" the light is above the tank i was told to add .5 watts per gallon. I plan to hang my fixture 12-18" above the tank to get a good spread of light.

I will use pea gravel for the substrate because you can get it at hardware stores for cheap and it looks nice in a natural set up. As well as some very large peices of branchy drift/bog wood found locally.

For plants I plan on using lots of jungle vals as well as different moss's such as java and flame moss, some amazon swords, etc.

As long as you stay around 1 watt per gallon you will not have to add Carbon dioxide or fertilizers. Just normal water changes to replenish nutrients and a medium stock of fish to supply the nitrate needed for plant food. This will yield lower/slower growth rates for the plant life but will save thousands of dollars over time.

Of course if you have a few grand to spend on the plant side of the set up. Then let me know cause i have a plan drawn up for that as well in case i hit the lottery.

Hope that gives you some idea's
 
I used the twist-tube cfl lights in my planted tank hood (on my 125g). I had 8 sockets installed, and I lined the ceiling of the canopy with silver colored flashing as a reflector. I started out with 8x 75w equivalent cfl bulbs, which are 23w (actual) each. That gave me 184w actual light, 600w equivalent. It was bright enough to grow most anything I needed in a 125g. I had amazon swords, cabomba, a bottom spreading plant, anacharis, giant dwarf baby tears, java fern, and probably another half dozen I don't remember the names of.

Without adding CO2, my growth was so fast (with a moderately stocked tank), that if I didn't trim 25-30% of the plants out EVERY WEEK, then they were overgrowing the tank, pushing up out of the water into the canopy, and burning themselves by coming into contact with the bulbs.

The twist-tube cfl's are a lot of light for very cheap, easy to DIY, and you can experiment with different wattage bulbs until you find a setup that works. (they sell up to 200w cfl's online, I think)
 
T5HO is 50% more efficient than CFL, and the reflectors work better too. A lot of the light produced by a CFL doesn't end up going into the tank because of the spiral shape of the tube.

Regular T8 is also more efficient, and the fixtures are cheap.

four T8 shop lights would cost about $80 (lowes, HD), plus another ~30 for 8 bulbs

The tank is 6 feet long though, which would force you to stagger them.
 
Low budget is definitely the way I am thinking, It's a great size tank and I have a good plan for placing it so it will be easy to run an auto water change system to it, so that will not be an issue

I'm thinking of Cories for the bottom along with some bumblebees which i have in one of my little tanks already (They should act as a population control fish), Neons, Guppies, swords, platies, barbs and a few small plecos which will be what I can find and find cheap LOL

Lighting will most likely be with T8's, With the current lid for the tank I will need to mod it but will have some lights hanging within 8-10" of the top of the water, I don't plan on over filtering this tank, just a FX5....(this could of course change at any point to a sump... but I'm goin for easy and carefree here)

I'm mostly stuck on Plants, I'd rather not have plants that will take a ton of time to upkeep, I'd rather have a good low light plant that will be able to hide some fry from the Bumblebees but not wild that within a day or 2 I have to pull out half of the plants in order to have some open space in the middle of the tank where I hope to be able to see some of the activity from the fish.

I'm thinking that 1 end of the tank will most likely be some rock piles with lots of little caves and nooks and what not with a "grassy area" on top with the other end being more "Bushy" if that makes any sense. I'd like the middle 2-3' to be open with a nice sandy bottom and a few pieces of Drift wood and a stone or twenty thrown about to make it look a little more "natural"
 
Lots of ottos and dwarf cichlids :) always impressive.
 
As far as plants, amazon swords are pretty maintenance free, other than the occasional leaf trimming. Cabomba/anacharis could both be "bushy" if you get a nice thick planting going. Java fern is also a nice low maintenance plant, as well as most anubias.

You could use java moss attached to some driftwood or rocks, and that would make a great hiding place for fry.
 
hey mate - take a look at this and follow it strictly ( if you do decide to use topsoil )!

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...-mineralized-soil-substrate-aaron-talbot.html

also someone here said that he suggest 3x400w with low light plants? ammm with that much light even tho the tank is 28inch tall, you should be ok keeping a bit more demanding ( light-wise) plants

it's all about how "high-tech" you wanna go ... don't rush that's for sure, think of your goal - how do you want your tank to look etc ... and those two websites that someone suggested they are GREAT forums, you will spend hours, days, weeks just reading stuff from both sites ;)


good luck ! make sure to keep the pics coming !
 
I would go with a big stand of giant vals at one end of the tank, with a powerhead there to keep them swaying in the current, and a big fern- and Anubias-covered driftwood branch at the other, with some Java moss around its base and a reddish Ludwigia at its top.
 
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