New Arowana with clamped Tail&Fins

[BreezyEcho]

Well he didnt make it guys... ? I think I should get some floating plants for my tank to keep the nitrate low first...

I think Im gonna skip on arowana, since lfs around me didnt keep feeding them properly, I just come from the lfs that sold me the arowana and when I see their arowana anus there's red hairy things wriggle... Is that parasite?

 

[BreezyEcho]

I've also seen they feed jardini (size around 5") With mollies... (I can still see around 4 mollies still alive in their jardini tank) But i wonder ?why the fish seems healthy at their tank when i check at their tank param with thwir permission, they almost have the same qualtiy with my tank water, but the PH seems off... It around 8.6

 

[..puSkar..]

Well he didnt make it guys... ? I think I should get some floating plants for my tank to keep the nitrate low first...

I think Im gonna skip on arowana, since lfs around me didnt keep feeding them properly, I just come from the lfs that sold me the arowana and when I see their arowana anus there's red hairy things wriggle... Is that parasite?

Yes it's parasites and the red one that comes out of the anus is the hardest to treat. It cannot be treated with epsom salt or metronidazole. It legit needs hardcore treatment plus this worm also gets transferred very fast so I suggest you avoid buying fish from that lfs for quite some time.
Such parasites are called camallanus worms. You may search to know more about them

 

[..puSkar..]

Maybe they recently got it fron the breeder or exporter, so it's healthy, your one may have got unhealthy at the lfs when it was fed feeders with camallanus worms, don't worry the jardini will also get unhealthy eating such fish.

I've also seen they feed jardini (size around 5") With mollies... (I can still see around 4 mollies still alive in their jardini tank) But i wonder ?why the fish seems healthy at their tank when i check at their tank param with thwir permission, they almost have the same qualtiy with my tank water, but the PH seems off... It around 8.6

 

[Rocksor]

Red worm coming out of it is more likely callamanus worms that need to be treated 2-3 times, about 2-3 weeks apart using levamisol HCL or flubendazole or fenbendazole. It's highly infectious and by the time you see a lot coming out, it's less than 50% chance you can save the fish. I would consider the whole tank that has the infected aro to all have it. Heck, the whole LFS may have infected their other tanks.

 

[Fishman Dave]

As for the corals i used it as filtration since my tank have filtration in the back of the tank. Yep the hardeness are high, I already used the anti chlorine with enough dosage though...

Taking a step back here.
I am sorry(but not surprised) that your arrowana died.
As for filtration, I am happy you using something like alpha grog in the right chamber for biological filtration however I would remove much of the coral chips and such that are driving your hardness really high and replace with foam or similar that can be removed and rinsed easily.
The coral chips are good at stopping ph from dropping significantly below 7 but when ph is above 7 they will just increase hardness ( chemists please step in if I get this wrong or miss bits in my layman’s speak).
As for “Yep hardness are high, I already used the anti chlorine with enough dosage though”, what does this mean?
1) you ran out so can’t add more softer water such as rain water?
2) you think that chlorine has something to do with hardness? Dechlorinator has nothing (very little) to do with hardness readings.

Fish transferred into extremely hard water will suffer stress and potentially death.
The hard water has high content of dissolved minerals and generally calcium.
This is the complete opposite to what arrowana prefer. As a soft water fish it is designed to absorb as much calcium as it can from its water- hence hard water would be bad for it longer term.
Hard water also means high ph and very difficult to get below 7, again arowana prefer ph 6-7.
Suggest you review your filter and water harness before trying any more arrowana.
Or alternatively look to keep hard water species like mollies, rift lake cichlids or some synodontis.
It is often easier matching your fish to your water than Tyler ing to match your water to your fish.

 

[BreezyEcho]

Red worm coming out of it is more likely callamanus worms that need to be treated 2-3 times, about 2-3 weeks apart using levamisol HCL or flubendazole or fenbendazole. It's highly infectious and by the time you see a lot coming out, it's less than 50% chance you can save the fish. I would consider the whole tank that has the infected aro to all have it. Heck, the whole LFS may have infected their other tanks.

Woah that's hard to do then, I just stopped to get another aro since LFS around here didnt have fit aro...

Taking a step back here.
I am sorry(but not surprised) that your arrowana died.
As for filtration, I am happy you using something like alpha grog in the right chamber for biological filtration however I would remove much of the coral chips and such that are driving your hardness really high and replace with foam or similar that can be removed and rinsed easily.
The coral chips are good at stopping ph from dropping significantly below 7 but when ph is above 7 they will just increase hardness ( chemists please step in if I get this wrong or miss bits in my layman’s speak).
As for “Yep hardness are high, I already used the anti chlorine with enough dosage though”, what does this mean?
1) you ran out so can’t add more softer water such as rain water?
2) you think that chlorine has something to do with hardness? Dechlorinator has nothing (very little) to do with hardness readings.

Fish transferred into extremely hard water will suffer stress and potentially death.
The hard water has high content of dissolved minerals and generally calcium.
This is the complete opposite to what arrowana prefer. As a soft water fish it is designed to absorb as much calcium as it can from its water- hence hard water would be bad for it longer term.
Hard water also means high ph and very difficult to get below 7, again arowana prefer ph 6-7.
Suggest you review your filter and water harness before trying any more arrowana.
Or alternatively look to keep hard water species like mollies, rift lake cichlids or some synodontis.
It is often easier matching your fish to your water than Tyler ing to match your water to your fish.

Thanks a lot about the info!
My filtration setup was suggested by the FLS itself that I should change zeolite with coral chips, before that my filtration setup was like this :
Right side : alphagrog
Mid Right : Zeolite
Mid : Coral Chips
Mid Left : Carbon&Foam
Left : Water Pump
If possible can you rate my filtration? and suggest the better combination... ?

As for the hardness :
1. Since I'm not living in 4 season country and now isn't the raining season... (all sunny day) at least until November, so I only can use reserved tap water(tap water that reserved a day before)
2. Ah this is new info for me, I thought anti chlorine can reduce hardness into significant level. I'm sorry for the ignorance..?

Yeah I am trying to keeping gars and Polyp then (since I love the ancient predator fishes), as for the gars can adapt hard-hard rock water (according to some journal CMIIW) and I also have relatively big pool at my backyard size 5m*4M (if the gars didnt fit anymore in the tank). ?

 

[Fishman Dave]

Regarding filtration it depends on whether your pump pulls the water from your tank and pushes it through the filter left to right or if it pulls water through the filter right to left and pushes it back into the tank.
However, I would suggest foam first thing water goes through as mechanical which can be cleaned easily and as often as required, then the alpha grog as bacterial, then the zeolite, then a smaller amount of chips and the carbon.

As for water, have you tested the quality of the pond?
For your tank you might be better adding water from the pond to the tank if it is low enough in nitrates and then topping up the pond with the reserved tap water. Just a thought.

 

[BreezyEcho]

Regarding filtration it depends on whether your pump pulls the water from your tank and pushes it through the filter left to right or if it pulls water through the filter right to left and pushes it back into the tank.
However, I would suggest foam first thing water goes through as mechanical which can be cleaned easily and as often as required, then the alpha grog as bacterial, then the zeolite, then a smaller amount of chips and the carbon.

As for water, have you tested the quality of the pond?
For your tank you might be better adding water from the pond to the tank if it is low enough in nitrates and then topping up the pond with the reserved tap water. Just a thought.

Thanks for the suggestion! I've already rearrange tank filtration as you suggest and all of the guys inside feeling better!
I add bio rings in alpha grog chamber, reduce the coral chips into small amount (only in the bottom part of zeolite chamber) also adding peat moss (the small white bundle in the top zeolite chamber) to reduce water hardness and reduce the PH, my water quality are good now! PH around 6.5-7 and Hardness (GH?) around 150-200, This setup already running almost 2 week and the guys inside seems healthy.

As for the water in my pond, the quality also good(almost same amount as my tank except GH around 50-150), but the coloration is very brown (like water in the brackish river) so i decide not to use this one since I cannot see fishes in my tank if I use this water.

Last week, I also tried once more to pet another silver and he's swimming and eating well, all of his fins seems flaring almost all the time I see him up until now.

But my questions are, since he's still juvenile (around 6") should I feed until he's stop eating? or should I give him some exact amount everytime i feed? (5-6 meal worms every feeding time)Because this dude having big appetite for such a size! He's eating like there's no tomorrow, on my first attempt to feed, I keep giving him meal worms until his stomach bulky (around 14-15MW) ... but I'am afraid I might did wrong at that time, then I give him around 5-6 meal worms every feed time, or 2-3 crickets up until now.

Also when I feed him, I give MW that white/pale one that just shed shell and sometimes baby crickets (young cricket that still have no wings) that I remove the legs (since I'am afraid this sharp and pointy cricket legs and can damage aro stomach).

I feed MW with vegetable and shrimp pellets, I've read the articles that if you feed MW with vegetable such as carrot will transfer the vitamin A to the fish as well, Is it true?

My last question, are freshwater shrimp good for aro compared to MW/Cricket?
If it's having good nutrients than MW/Cricket then I would consider add it to his food list (I might give it twice/thrice a week).

Sorry for being talk active in here ? and thanks a lot! ?

PS : I also add some hardy plants with low CO2 needs (Swords, Anubias, Vallisneria and Frogbit) Here some photos and my current tank...