neoprodigy;2543414; said:
You sure that'll work? Just sounds small LOL They look like nice nets but I don't trust that the dorsel or other fins won't get stuck in it..
NEW MONSTER : Another Monster Journey : Setting Up Monster 600 Gallon
- Thread starter neoprodigy
- Start date
You sure that'll work? Just sounds small LOL They look like nice nets but I don't trust that the dorsel or other fins won't get stuck in it..
jlnguyen74;2543375; said:
actually... the slower the flow rate will kill more and will give you more "cystal clear water"
http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/instructions/uvnowipelr.pdf
Aquaticeco.com : Ultraviolet (UV) Sterilizers Tech Talk 96
in order to protect aquatic livestock held in aquariums or holding tanks, biologically treated water should be adequately disinfected before returning it from the filter system. Mechanical and biological filtration does not provide inactivation of pathogenic bacteria, protozoa and viruses. Ultraviolet radiation (germicidal) energy is unmatched in its efficiency, simplicity and dependability when applied as a microorganism disinfectant! It is most effective for its germicidal value in a clear water application at a wavelength of 265 nanometers. With proper exposure, ultraviolet radiation energy (ultraviolet light) penetrates a microorganism's cell wall. It then destroys the nuclear material, causing abrupt modification and quickly bringing about its destruction.
At AES we hear from a lot of people who have ultraviolet (UV) sterilizers and are still experiencing disease problems. This can almost always be traced back to inadequate UV irradiation. Because it is so difficult to measure the intensity of UV energy hitting the water, many buyers have improperly sized their UV sterilizers by simply following the maximum gpm flow rate published for 15,000 µWs/cm²* (who said aquaculture was easy?).
This is the problem! You cannot compare UV sterilizers by the watt ratings alone. That would be like comparing cars by their engine size alone. The watt rating is just the starting point for comparisons.
The full amount of UV energy required to kill a microorganism must hit the organism after the energy leaves the lamp, after it leaves the quartz sleeve, after the lamp has aged and after it has passed by any turbidity and color that block the light.
Low-pressure mercury type UV lamps are best suited to germicidal action because the primary radiation generated by these lamps consists almost exclusively of a spectral wavelength of 254 nanometers, which is close to the maximum peak germicidal effectiveness wavelength of 265 nanometers. This gives the low-pressure mercury type lamps an exceptional 40 percent UV energy efficiency rate between input watts and UV output watts.
Medium- and high-pressure mercury type lamps are best suited for treatments involving chemical by-products associated with industrial waste water or for the drying of printing inks, paints and adhesives, not germicidal action.
The bulk of their power is in the 320 to 440 nanometer range, well outside the germicidal range.
Ultraviolet light can be very effective at eliminating viruses, bacteria, algae and fungi. The required UV exposure rate to irradiate common bacteria is 15,000 µWs/cm² , while the required UV exposure for waterborne algae is 22,000 µWs/cm² . Since it is the intensity of light that is doing the killing, we must know how much light energy to use and how much is reaching the target. Just as some sunglasses and sunscreens reduce UV intensity, so do discolored water, turbidity, dirty quartz sleeves and even some dissolved salts, such as sodium thiosulfate. Lamp temperatures may even reduce output when operated in cold water (110°F gives maximum UV output).
To ensure sterile water using UV light, first start with clear water, and have a lamp and flow rate that are sized to deliver the correct amount of irradiation for the target organism (see exposures list). If a UV light is flow rated for 15,000 µWs/cm² and you want 30,000, either double the number of lamps or reduce the flow by half, and so on for higher dosages.
Be aware that some lamps age rapidly, and the manufacturer probably states the watts produced when the lamp is new. This wattage can be reduced by as much as 40 percent in as few as six months! We suggest oversizing the UV sterilizer by at least 40 percent to be sure of getting the killing power required when the lamp has aged. We also suggest changing lamps at six-month intervals. For a more in-depth look at UV sterilization and system design, consult the book Aquaculture Engineering (WQB3).
*µWs/cm² = exposure to ultraviolet light of 253.7 nm wavelength in microwattseconds per square centimeter.
THIS IS AWESOME!
I CANT BELIEVE THAT I DONT HAVE A MONSTER TENECOR TANK YET, WITH THEM BEING LOCAL AND ALL.
MAYBE FOR MY BIRTHDAY NEXT YEAR.
I CANT BELIEVE THAT I DONT HAVE A MONSTER TENECOR TANK YET, WITH THEM BEING LOCAL AND ALL.
MAYBE FOR MY BIRTHDAY NEXT YEAR.
cool... will pick that up just at the day of the move... just incaserallysman;2543459;2543459 said:
I'm playing devils advocate.. =-(
UV, I don't think you will need. Why?
Well, your putting two Barra's that you have had for quite sometime. So you know they have no parasites. Even if they did I am sure you have treated them already? As you said this will strictly be your Mundi tank. and will not be introducing any new fish with these two. In addition, do not feed live. So the the UV being a parasite preventive will not be applicable to you.
How about for algae control. You stated this will be kept in doors and not in the path of direct sunlight. So algae can be controlled by amount of light kept on and should not be an issue nor would require a UV to combat the issue?
So two primary reasons you would want to install a UV would not be applicable to your needs. It will just be an added maintenance and upkeep & cost out your pocket.
Unless, your planning on plumbing your other tanks together as a central filtration system? Then yea, I could see you needing a UV for preventive measures since your always getting fish.
UV, I don't think you will need. Why?
Well, your putting two Barra's that you have had for quite sometime. So you know they have no parasites. Even if they did I am sure you have treated them already? As you said this will strictly be your Mundi tank. and will not be introducing any new fish with these two. In addition, do not feed live. So the the UV being a parasite preventive will not be applicable to you.
How about for algae control. You stated this will be kept in doors and not in the path of direct sunlight. So algae can be controlled by amount of light kept on and should not be an issue nor would require a UV to combat the issue?
So two primary reasons you would want to install a UV would not be applicable to your needs. It will just be an added maintenance and upkeep & cost out your pocket.
Unless, your planning on plumbing your other tanks together as a central filtration system? Then yea, I could see you needing a UV for preventive measures since your always getting fish.
As for the net, just use HEFTY BAGS? Put 3-5 together if you have to. Sedate them and just bag em up? I know you have something to sedate your fish?
Why stress them out with trying to catch them with a net & risk them damaging themselves banging on the tank, messing up their dorsal, scales, or whatever else.
What size tank they in now? 240? 180?
Why stress them out with trying to catch them with a net & risk them damaging themselves banging on the tank, messing up their dorsal, scales, or whatever else.
What size tank they in now? 240? 180?
so just ballpark what is all this running u so far price wise im really looking to do somthing like this one day
