new setup of 610 gallon tank post move.

[amber1986]

So I just moved to a new house. I have a 610g tank in what will be the office. We have reinforced the floor and the tank will be plumbed through the floor with the sump in the basement. We have 2 overflows with 2 2inch holes in each. the plan is to run dual herbie setups. with the return coming up over the top in the middle. We have a new reeflow 3HP. The sump is a 125g tank converted with DYI baffles. we have a breading pair of stingrays and one pup and plan to finish stocking once setup with an arrowana and oscar or cichlids. With a 40g a day drip system with an overflow drain out of the sump. The stingrays are in a holding tank currently so the plan is to plumb the tank tomorrow

My questions are
1) can I T the 2 emergency lines together or use one overflow as herbie with 1 tall standpipe in the 2nd opening for the return line? We have very nice hardwood floors and would like to minimize the number of 2 inch holes.
2) how can I minimize back siphon. We used check valves previously but they would sick open. There is no drain in my basement so we will be using a condensation pump for the 40g however during power outages it will not run and the excess water would run out the drip overflow and potentially flood my basement.
3) We didn't use baffles with our previous setup so how would I prevent the pump from running dry post power outage?
4) If I run the return up over the top would if just leave the pipe open or put some kind of nozzle on it. We have a spray bar previously but had a big issue with back siphon.

 

[yzf450motoxrider]

You can put a electric solinoid valve on the drip line and a valve on the drain to the 40gal tank Both valves should be on a timer so they will open at the same time. When the power goes out both solinoids would shut preserving the water in the 125 gal tank. Then when the power turns on the pump wont run dry and the valves would open again. With a 3hp pump i wouldnt bother with a nozzle. Your going to have a ton of flow coming out of the return i wouldnt bother with a nozzle

 

[tlindsey]

So I just moved to a new house. I have a 610g tank in what will be the office. We have reinforced the floor and the tank will be plumbed through the floor with the sump in the basement. We have 2 overflows with 2 2inch holes in each. the plan is to run dual herbie setups. with the return coming up over the top in the middle. We have a new reeflow 3HP. The sump is a 125g tank converted with DYI baffles. we have a breading pair of stingrays and one pup and plan to finish stocking once setup with an arrowana and oscar or cichlids. With a 40g a day drip system with an overflow drain out of the sump. The stingrays are in a holding tank currently so the plan is to plumb the tank tomorrow

My questions are
1) can I T the 2 emergency lines together or use one overflow as herbie with 1 tall standpipe in the 2nd opening for the return line? We have very nice hardwood floors and would like to minimize the number of 2 inch holes.
2) how can I minimize back siphon. We used check valves previously but they would sick open. There is no drain in my basement so we will be using a condensation pump for the 40g however during power outages it will not run and the excess water would run out the drip overflow and potentially flood my basement.
3) We didn't use baffles with our previous setup so how would I prevent the pump from running dry post power outage?
4) If I run the return up over the top would if just leave the pipe open or put some kind of nozzle on it. We have a spray bar previously but had a big issue with back siphon.

Welcome aboard

Please post pics when all is done.

 

[TheWolfman]

If you plump the return over the top of the tank and drill a hole above the water level on your return line it will brake the back syphon on power loss. You will still have the water in the return line that will go back to your sump, but with a 125 for a sump you should be fine.

I wouldn’t go trying to cheat your secondary drains. If there is a issue with the main syphon your going to need both of them. I would just drill another hole on the floor. It will need to repaired either way afterwards so you might as well setup your plumbing properly.

I’m not sure how your sump is setup but with a monster return pump your going to need a appropriately sized return chamber in your sump. A pump like that will empty a return in seconds. I would make sure that you are leaving 75% of your 125 as the return chamber. That way the water can make it back before it runs dry.

 

[amber1986]

Could you suggest an electric solenoid valve with a timer or point me to where to research it. I'm not having much luck finding on with a timer

 

[yzf450motoxrider]

Could you suggest an electric solenoid valve with a timer or point me to where to research it. I'm not having much luck finding on with a timer

For the drain line you could use this one. You will have to solder a cord onto it so you can plug it in to a timer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018WRJYUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the supply side you could use the first valve from the link below.

AutoTopoff.com

autotopoff.com

 

[amber1986]

So I put a check valve on the return to help with backflow during power outages. I swapped the pump to a reeflow maneray but is still quit load.
1 any suggestions on soundproofing?
2 I am still nurves I am going to run the last compartment dry in a power failure.

 

[yzf450motoxrider]

A amber1986 Why is the water in the return chamber so low to begin with? It should be the same level as the rest of the sump. When water is added or removed from your system it will either fill the return chamber until it goes above the baffle or drain until the pump is sucking air. The only way to find out for sure is test it. Cut the power wait a few hours for the excess water in the sump to drain out of the system. Then plug it in and see if it sucks air. the return pump chamber looks to be about 1'x1'x1.5' for a volume of 12 gallons. So if 12 gallons or more drains down to your sump the pump will run dry when it turns on. You will be okay if you get rid of the auto water changing system or modify it so it cant drain (electric valves) when the power goes out.

 

[amber1986]

My guess is it is due to the pull of the return pump. The water is level when the pump is off. I think we are going to have to look until the electric valves. These seem kinda confusing to me. However we had a power outa tonight while we where working on the tank. Return chamber runs dry. Good news is the pump has an emergency shutoff when it sucked air. We also discovered that when we placed the overflow covers it raised the water level in the display to ab 1/2;inch from overflowing. We are trying to decide if we should try and cut the slots bigger vs remove every other tooth.

 

[DN328]

I would add nozzles even if you had a strong return pump. You could T to two separate loclines. You will have more flexibility to direct the flow for surface agitation and dead spots in a tank that size.

+1, on not cheating the second e-drain on the Herbie.

When running, the return pump chamber water level does not necessarily need to be the same level as the other chambers. As long as there is sufficient level for the pump to operate and there the volume back to the display is balanced with water draining that's what is important. As mentioned above the only way to know for sure is testing it.