New sump help!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Wow, I forgot to check back to this thread. I've actually gone a different route. I'm going to change to a herbie overflow setup. And for this to be silent the drains have to be fully submerged in the sump. So I've changed to a standard filter sock system, bioballs for wet/dry, scrubbies submerged, and an acrylic rack for growing pothos. I will post pics as I build it. Stay tuned. P.s. My wife is 8.5 months pregnant with our first child so it might be a slow process. Thank you for the diagram, shame I couldn't use it :)
 
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Whether the socks are over or beside the bio balls, the same thing applies. The balls will biologically filter the water whether dripped on, or submerged. If you are worried about taking too much space on one side of the sump, you can spread the design out. You have plenty of space to work with in a 75.
 
duanes said:
image001-193.jpg

Whether the socks are over or beside the bio balls, the same thing applies. The balls will biologically filter the water whether dripped on, or submerged. If you are worried about taking too much space on one side of the sump, you can spread the design out. You have plenty of space to work with in a 75.
Click to expand...

The problem I ran into with that drawer setup is if my drain line want submerged in the sump, then it want close to silent. So I'm changing to a herbie setup and running multiple socks and drain lines below the surface. Should be silent and super effective
 
I picked up a scratched up 75 gallon today for $50. Now I just need to get some glass cut, and actually start building it...stay tuned
 
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Here is the 75 I picked up. Still cleaning it out but I figured I'd add a pic to get the ball rolling
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Here is the sump design I crudely carved into the cave walls. Brief sump rundown.
1: Inlet through 2 200 micron filter socks (7x16)
2: Through drip tray over 15 gallons of bio balls (wet/dry) and a full layer of scrubbies(submerged)
3: I have an acrylic rack thingy (technical term) I will fill it with pothos and other plants to lower nitrates. Water flows through the rack and across the roots.
4: Basic chamber for return pumps. I currently have a mag9.5 and a mag 7 I will be running until I upgrade to a larger single pump.
I will also be putting my 2 heaters (300 watt titanium) in the free space under the bioballs and scrubbies.

Anyone see any huge flaws or have any questions or suggestions?

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0402121242.jpg
 
The water is going to be higher in your last chamber....it will be based on that last baffle unless thr pumps are pulling really fast. And you will have bubbles possible without a bubble wall...I can help you with the plans if needed josh. I had a 55 on my 180 with this almost exact setup.

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general question- Do baffles in a sump help keep the water moving and not stagnant? It always seems that I have stagnant water in my sump and I just feel that it should be moving a good amount. Just want almost like ripples on top moving the water and keeping everything moving, thats why I put a small power head in my sump just for extra water slow, because not really any fow out of the socks. Im working on my 125 gallon sump currently :-)


Paulbearer said:
The water is going to be higher in your last chamber....it will be based on that last baffle unless thr pumps are pulling really fast. And you will have bubbles possible without a bubble wall...I can help you with the plans if needed josh. I had a 55 on my 180 with this almost exact setup.

Sent from my LGL45C using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
Click to expand...
 
Also why are you going to use two pumps vs just one??
 
The rack with the plants doesn't serve as a wall, so the level will be where the line is. I promise :) and with the submerged scrubbies and the low height of the second baffle I don't think I will have bubble issues
 
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