I don't have fry yet, but I have a possible pair between my female carpintis and a male flower horn. Female I don't believe is large enough to breed although she is displaying some beautiful dark colors on her fin and back half of her body. If they do breed what exactly will I need to do? I don't have another tank so the fry would have to stay in the 75.
Newbie help with cichlid fry
- Thread starter Cichlidshady
- Start date
If there is just the pair in the tank, you just let nature take its course, a well bonded pair will fan the eggs, and care for the fry.
If there are other fish in the tank, unless you remove them, the pair will kill the others if they can.
If the not able to be killed, the others will eat the fry unless you remove them.
I often remove some of the fry to a breeder box, once they are hatched with a turkey baster.
If she's darkening, she's ready to breed.
The eggs take a few days to hatch, and the first few days after hatch, they don't need to eat, because they're using up their yolk sacks.
Once they become free swimming they will immediately need to start feeding.
I buy brine shrimp eggs, hatch then over 24 hours, and use newly hatched brine shrimp as a first food, and leave as much algae as possible on the tanks sides so they can constantly graze.
I also raise daphnia in my rain barrels as next food.
I remove all fry after the fry reach about an inch, or if the parents start cleaning a new spawning site. If they spawn again they will often eat the older fry.
Below is a breeder box, that can hang in the same tank with parents.
I use brine shrimp hatcheries I get from brineshrimpdirect.com, they come with eggs.
Although there are many DIY ways
If there are other fish in the tank, unless you remove them, the pair will kill the others if they can.
If the not able to be killed, the others will eat the fry unless you remove them.
I often remove some of the fry to a breeder box, once they are hatched with a turkey baster.
If she's darkening, she's ready to breed.
The eggs take a few days to hatch, and the first few days after hatch, they don't need to eat, because they're using up their yolk sacks.
Once they become free swimming they will immediately need to start feeding.
I buy brine shrimp eggs, hatch then over 24 hours, and use newly hatched brine shrimp as a first food, and leave as much algae as possible on the tanks sides so they can constantly graze.
I also raise daphnia in my rain barrels as next food.
I remove all fry after the fry reach about an inch, or if the parents start cleaning a new spawning site. If they spawn again they will often eat the older fry.
Below is a breeder box, that can hang in the same tank with parents.
I use brine shrimp hatcheries I get from brineshrimpdirect.com, they come with eggs.
Although there are many DIY ways
Duane,
You use the hatchery dishes? http://www.brineshrimpdirect.com/c9/hatchery-dish-p183.html
Do those provide enough BBS to feed growing fry? If so, I may get a couple! I hate hatching brine shrimp the old soda bottle way.
You use the hatchery dishes? http://www.brineshrimpdirect.com/c9/hatchery-dish-p183.html
Do those provide enough BBS to feed growing fry? If so, I may get a couple! I hate hatching brine shrimp the old soda bottle way.
I have 2 of those hatchery dishes, put eggs in one, usually takes 24 hours to hatch out the artemia, and feed a day or 2. When at its peak, I start another one, and alternate every couple days. Usually gives me enough to feed one spawn until they are weaned onto crushed pellets.
When it seems the dish is spent, I pour it into a upturned skylight outside, I usually end up with semi adult and adult brine shrimp over time.
When it seems the dish is spent, I pour it into a upturned skylight outside, I usually end up with semi adult and adult brine shrimp over time.
The opening in the middle lets in light, which attracts the newly hatched shrimp to a strainer, when you lift it, water drains back leaving the shrimp and it gets dipped into the fry tank.
