Nitrate Filter

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Jgray152

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 23, 2006
1,659
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NH
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This filter is connected to my Fx5's intake with a max flow rate of close to 5 gph. I would like to lower so a needle valve is what I need.

Its only been running for a few days now but I don't think it will ever produce the results I am looking for due to below;

I notice some flaws in my design, at that is the new water travels to the bottom which will make the bottom portion oxygen rich, for the most part, and at the top there is also oxygen since it does not purge 100%, so there is a small area toward the middle and will probubly extend upward to a certain point where anaerobic bacteria might thrive. Not exactly the amount of media I wanted to use for them. So I working on other ideas and I will post them soon.
 
So I have modded the filter to handle more head pressure and to have it able to purge about 98%, the extra 2% is just me giving a little squeeze of the container to force the rest out, I am working on another slight mod to see if I can get it to purge that extra 2%.

I have also changed the flow path. The intake of the filter starts at the top and flows downward to the get picked up by the suction tube. This will allow only air and hopfully, only oxygenated water to be at the top.

More Pictures. Not including the recent modifications.
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I got it at walmart.

Its called "Lock n Lock". Water tight container.
http://www.heritagemint.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=52&path=1%2C2%2C7%2C52&gclid=CLDP5amgkpkCFQUWGgodBGacaA

Walmart sells them. Im sure there are other local stores that carry them as well. I am very pleased with the construction of the container. Although I am putting the locking tabs through their paces as I have the lid "tighter" then before so I am hoping they hold up.

I have some more testing to do, mainly with the durability of the container and fittings with different head pressures.
 
Two things to change around:
Drive the denitrator with water from the return side of the filter instead of using the intake. The reason is the filter uses up 02 in the nitrogen cycle. You want to start with the most O2 poor water that you can get.
Secondly, flip the in and out on the denitrator. If the water entering it starts at the bottom, then it will self purge.

To jump start the denitrator, empty it and clean some filters (sponges are best). Pour the dirty water in the denitrator, top it off and then just let it sit for a week or two. Give it a piece of shrimp or some fishfood to keep it going but don't open it to give it more food. At the end of the "cycle" period, it should smell really putrid. That is a good thing. Anaerobic activity doesn't smell nice. Aerobic activity has the cleaner smell, which is what you don't want. Contrary to what is passed around on the boards, a lot of bacteria can go from aerobic conditions to anaerobic and back to aerobic without missing a beat. This method of cycling will encourage the growth of those bacteria.

Before putting the denitrator back on the system, you are going to need to flush it with oxygen poor water from your canister. The denitrator will produce hydrogen sulfide during the cycle (it is very toxic to your fish).
 
Jgray152;2877353; said:
I have some more testing to do, mainly with the durability of the container and fittings with different head pressures.
You can get a better container from Walmart, many grocery stores, Kmart, Big Lots, etc. It is about the same size but round. They are made of hard plastic (looks like acrylic or polycarbonate). They have a silicone gasket and a metal latch for a tight seal. I'll see what I can do for a picture.
 
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I bought this one at Walmart quite a while ago. I saw them a few weeks ago but without the swirl design. They were $10ish.
 
Two things to change around:
Drive the denitrator with water from the return side of the filter instead of using the intake. The reason is the filter uses up 02 in the nitrogen cycle. You want to start with the most O2 poor water that you can get.
Secondly, flip the in and out on the denitrator. If the water entering it starts at the bottom, then it will self purge.

This "was" exactly how I first had it. The reason its not like that any more was due to the internal pressure from the Fx5 due to the head pressure. I would have had to get this container level or higher than the water line for it not to leak.

I may be able to do it now that I have modified the seal for a tighter fit. All the reasons you stated are the reasons I had it connected to the output of the filter first.

The container does purge, but only when the Fx5 if OFF. The reason is due to the differential in pressures, as you already know. I did have it hooked up so that while the Fx5 was ON it would purge but this would allow air into the Fx5 which if you talk to any Fx5 owners, they get kinda loud when this happends.

To jump start the denitrator, empty it and clean some filters (sponges are best). Pour the dirty water in the denitrator, top it off and then just let it sit for a week or two. Give it a piece of shrimp or some fishfood to keep it going but don't open it to give it more food. At the end of the "cycle" period, it should smell really putrid. That is a good thing. Anaerobic activity doesn't smell nice. Aerobic activity has the cleaner smell, which is what you don't want. Contrary to what is passed around on the boards, a lot of bacteria can go from aerobic conditions to anaerobic and back to aerobic without missing a beat. This method of cycling will encourage the growth of those bacteria.
Thanks for the great tip. I will do just that :). So I should just, like you say, let it sit without any water moving in or out?

Before putting the denitrator back on the system, you are going to need to flush it with oxygen poor water from your canister. The denitrator will produce hydrogen sulfide during the cycle (it is very toxic to your fish).

I suppose I will fill a bucket up with water and let it sit for it to be depleted of oxygen.

I am also thinking that the very small amounts of hydrogen sulfide that are produced will get agitated out when it goes into the tank from the Fx5 since I have the output agitating the surface....?

You can get a better container from Walmart, many grocery stores, Kmart, Big Lots, etc. It is about the same size but round. They are made of hard plastic (looks like acrylic or polycarbonate). They have a silicone gasket and a metal latch for a tight seal. I'll see what I can do for a picture.
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anything better. Not saying there isn't, Target, Big Lots, Job Lots, may have something.
 
I bought this one at Walmart quite a while ago. I saw them a few weeks ago but without the swirl design. They were $10ish.

mmmmmmmm.... Sexy. Me Like. :) I'll have to check that out.
 
Here are two more pictures.

This tube is the "intake" of the filter and also aids in purging while the Fx5 is off. The end of the tube has a 45* cut into it facing up toward the cover. This allows a bit more time before the water plugs the tube and doesn't allow any more air to escape. Works quite well. The little mound of silicone you see in front of the tube is there for a purpose, it redirects the water in multiple directions to break up any steady stream from flowing all the way across the filter. This also seems to work, at full flow, the water hit the mound and gets directed more downward. Almost a 90* direction change.
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Here you can see the barbed nozzels pointing outward as the cover is "bowing" because of the head pressure alone.
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