Nitrates soooo high! Can’t get them down. Help

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I agree with Jeff, "don't" clean both filters at once, do one, wait a while, then the other, and step up water changes gradually. If you get at all distracted, while cleaning both filters, you could wipe out all the beneficial bacteria, and end up with an ammonia spike, and a dead tank.
I also agree your tank is overstocked, and that, that overstocking is contributing to the nitrate problem.
Whenever you acquire young cichlids, of course growth is obvious, but I doubt many new aquarists realize, water changes must be increased with and coincide with that growth.
The same changes that were adequate for 2" cichlids, are not even close to being adequate for 5" or larger cichlids, especially with the over population you have.
 
Lots of good advice here!

Removing places where gunk is accumulating - in the gravel, under rocks, in the canister filters - and doing more water changes is the key to lowering nitrates and having healthier fish. I also agree that the tank is over stocked but the same advice holds.

If changing water and cleaning filters is a PITA, it won't get done as frequently as it should. How to simplify?

A pump connected to a hose (that empties into a sink or toilet or out a window) can make draining the tank easier. Is there a faucet in your house to which you could connect a garden hose (to refill)? If not, using a pump to drain would halve the number of buckets you'd need to carry. I'd do at least two 50-75% water changes weekly.

I ended using canister filters for the reasons described. That rotting gunk is out of sight doesn't mean that it's not creating nitrate (or worse). I switched to use of Poret foam (www.swisstropicals.com) and DIY overhead filters (basically a sump on top of the tank that "dumps" back into the tank via gravity) for my large tanks. Massive bio capacity and very easy to clean.

One other thing to consider is adding some Pothos or other terrestrial plants growing out of the tank. They are easy to grow and absorb nitrogenous waste. Takes a little bit for them to settle and start growing but when they do, it can be a big help.

Good luck and change more water!
 
try pothos or other plant clippings stuck into the top of the tank and/or Algae turf scrubber (ATS). Niether will solve your nitrate problem or reduce overstocking, but they will lower nitrate.
 
consider is adding some Pothos or other terrestrial plants growing out of the tank. They are easy to grow and absorb nitrogenous waste.

try pothos or other plant clippings stuck into the top of the tank and/or Algae turf scrubber

Hello; These and when you get a calm day or few look up the use of something such as RID-X to help in a tank. There are several posts about this on the forum.
 
All 4-6 inch except where mentioned.

Aro 10in
Green Texas
JD
Red Texas
Choc
Green sev
Birchir
Royal plec
Pike cich
Outcast (10 in front)

Nitrates come from protein. Fish that size (in order to grow) are typically being fed around 4% of their net body weight measured on net dry weight basis on a daily basis (on average.) Feeding has to be at least 2- 2.5% merely to maintain their current size, so if they're growing, 4% is likely as low as it is. (Sub adults need a basic daily amount to grow properly, and although you might be feeding them even higher amounts, it's difficult to have healthy, attractive fish by feeding them less.)

You also might be feeding a higher or lower rates of protein or the fish might be slightly larger or smaller. The direction of the analysis isn't materially different. Molecular protein includes ammonia and ammonia becomes nitrates.

The fish stock in your tank works out to around 2.25 lbs. Feeding 2.25 lbs of fish 50% protein food at that rate works out to 19 ppm of nitrates per day.

19 x 7 = 133 nitrates per week. Doing 50% WC each week will lead to a static rate of 130-250 ppm.

If each of your fish grows by 1 inch and feeding is kept at 4% of net weight, the nitrates will jump from 19 to 30 per day. I'd say you should be doing 50% daily changes and are heading quickly towards 75-90%. Yes. Overcrowded for that rate of feeding and water changes. As they all are still growing, the numbers will increase geometrically.
 
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Drstrangelove, post: 8032752, member: 111458"]Nitrates come from protein. Fish that size (in order to grow) are typically being fed around 4% of their net body weight measured on net dry weight basis on a daily basis (on average.) Feeding has to be at least 2- 2.5% merely to maintain their current size, so if they're growing, 4% is likely as low as it is.

The fish stock in your tank works out to around 2.25 lbs. Feeding 2.25 lbs of fish 50% protein food at that rate works out to 19 ppm of nitrates per day.

19 x 7 = 133 nitrates per week. Doing 50% WC each week will lead to a static rate of 130-250 ppm.

If each of your fish grows by 1 inch and feeding is kept at 4% of net weight, the nitrates will jump from 19 to 30 per day. I'd say you should be doing 50% daily changes and are heading quickly towards 75-90%. Yes. Overcrowded for that rate of feeding and water changes. As they all are still growing, the numbers will increase geometrically.


Facts!
 
Nitrates come from protein. Fish that size (in order to grow) are typically being fed around 4% of their net body weight measured on net dry weight basis on a daily basis (on average.) Feeding has to be at least 2- 2.5% merely to maintain their current size, so if they're growing, 4% is likely as low as it is. (Sub adults need a basic daily amount to grow properly, and although you might be feeding them even higher amounts, it's difficult to have healthy, attractive fish by feeding them less.)

You also might be feeding a higher or lower rates of protein or the fish might be slightly larger or smaller. The direction of the analysis isn't materially different. Molecular protein includes ammonia and ammonia becomes nitrates.

The fish stock in your tank works out to around 2.25 lbs. Feeding 2.25 lbs of fish 50% protein food at that rate works out to 19 ppm of nitrates per day.

19 x 7 = 133 nitrates per week. Doing 50% WC each week will lead to a static rate of 130-250 ppm.

If each of your fish grows by 1 inch and feeding is kept at 4% of net weight, the nitrates will jump from 19 to 30 per day. I'd say you should be doing 50% daily changes and are heading quickly towards 75-90%. Yes. Overcrowded for that rate of feeding and water changes. As they all are still growing, the numbers will increase geometrically.


Wow, appreciate the details. Looks like I should probably rehome some of these guys. Not what I would like to do as I’ve raised them all since less then an inch but I certainly don’t want to risk the entire tank. Plus there are a few *ssholes in there that could get the boot without me feeling too bad. How many fish should I keep it too? If I were to continue weekly water changes. My math skills are limited.
 
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I would say a 125 is fully stocked with a 10'' aro, a green texas, and a pleco.

Im not very familiar with Arowannas, but I'd bet an adult cichlid with anger issues could do some damage to one quickly.

I would keep the two or three you like most and guage the situation from there.
 
Personally id get rid of the arowana. A 125 is not a permanent home anyway, not wide enough.
Then pick 3 or 4 you really like and decide for sure you'd want long term.
If the 10" outcast front is a frontosa that's probably my 2nd choice of needs a bigger tank.
What kind of bichir?
Honestly depending on each other's personal interaction and what type of bichir id say sev, choc, pike, royal, bichir could stay long term. Changing out any with either texas if a better personality fit.
I've kept most of those. Jds were always border line jerks, sevs some were some weren't, most bichirs are fine with larger fish, plecos ehh.... lots of bioload for little payoff, Texas hmm if I recall mine were ok mostly but its been 20ish years, choc were always good for me, never kept pikes.
I know its hard and the honest truth has been spoken and you see the fact of the math there just isnt enough dilution in a 125 to make it possible to keep it all. Not to mention they dont or wont have room even if you can keep up with 50%daily water changes. Keeping animals is or needs to be about not only keeping them but keeping them healthy and as happy as possible.
 
Everyone here has given great advice. This is why I love MFK. 3 pages of great, lengthy responses in one day.

Your cichlids are all going to get to 10"+. I would keep 3 of them that get along well, with your pleco or bichir, and call it a day. The arowana is going to outgrow a 125, and will be easier to re-home now than at 2' long, so that's the first thing I would sell off.
 
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