nitrates

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nickbohanon

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 25, 2011
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jeffersonville
i have a 220 fowlr and have high nitrates. my skimmer i got with this setup when i bought it but its a remora type with adjustable cup and has never pulled anything but dirty water with cup up all the way? i thought about buying a lifereef skimmer after the success i had with his overflows. i also heard of aquaripure nitrate filter? what is best what should i do? im new to saltwater but have freshwater experience but getting deeper everyday. i bought a 35 watt deep blue in tank uv? anyone know about these? then one i got when i bought this setup wasnt working and new bulb didnt fix it so i figured i needed something? thanks
 
your easiest options for nitrate control is bigger and more frequent water changes along with more skimming, run two if you want lower nitrates. lowering your fish bioload so there is less feed and waste in the system is another option, along with keeping detritus stores within the tank clean with regular maintenance of all contact surfaces and filters. get a second test verification of your original nitrate measures before making changes, someone else's test and interpretation.


the aquaripure and other filters that create specialized bacteria cultures are possible sources of help but nothing beats increased skimming and water changes and a lower bioload in terms of simplicity even though some work is involved as insurance for your tank's success.

the uv filter is inconseqential to nitrates, you can use it or not use it thousands of successful tanks run with and without them just like aquaripures even though all options are up to you for experimentation. uv filters can be very helpful in preventing algae and some fish diseases but rarely is the uv system matched to the tank in terms of turnover/photointensity
the uv unit itself has to be kept clean internally, free of salt creep and scum Id use a good one on any of my tanks I like them.
 
your easiest options for nitrate control is bigger and more frequent water changes along with more skimming, run two if you want lower nitrates. lowering your fish bioload so there is less feed and waste in the system is another option, along with keeping detritus stores within the tank clean with regular maintenance of all contact surfaces and filters. get a second test verification of your original nitrate measures before making changes, someone else's test and interpretation.


the aquaripure and other filters that create specialized bacteria cultures are possible sources of help but nothing beats increased skimming and water changes and a lower bioload in terms of simplicity even though some work is involved as insurance for your tank's success.

the uv filter is inconseqential to nitrates, you can use it or not use it thousands of successful tanks run with and without them just like aquaripures even though all options are up to you for experimentation. uv filters can be very helpful in preventing algae and some fish diseases but rarely is the uv system matched to the tank in terms of turnover/photointensity
the uv unit itself has to be kept clean internally, free of salt creep and scum Id use a good one on any of my tanks I like them.

Lots of good info here.

I have a few questions, which should help figure out the best way to go..

1. I assume you have a sump because you have overflows now, correct?

2. How big is the sump? Dimensions?

3. How much live rock would you say you have? How deep is the sand bed?

4. What is the flow through your sump? Max your overflow can handle and pump you are using?

5. How high are we talking for nitrates?

6. How often do you do water changes? How much water gets changed?

7. Any other flow? Powerheads?

8. What is in your sump currently? Refuge? Heaters? etc.?


You will definitely need a bigger/better skimmer. It will need to go in the sump, no hang on versions are going to work here.
 
first off this is my first saltwater tank but have some experience with sumps in fresh but i bought this setup used hoping to ease and speed setup time which it did tank was going for 4 years and then i bought it moved it and setup same day. thanks for all the help. i have looked alot at lifereef seems to be great products. he has a skimmer ive been looking at same skimmer can either be in sump hang on or stand alone depending on pump. ??

1. yes sump

2. pro clear aquatic systems 36x12x12 roughly. suppose to be rated for 1200gph

3. id say roughly 200 pound of live rock. sand bed is from 3" to 5"

4. sump is rated for 1200gph. i have 2 lifereef overflows rated at 600 each for 1200, and im using a mag 1800 pump wide open at roughly 4'. recently switched from 1200 and 1800 did help fill up inner boxes more but thinking i could have went with 2400 and cut it down just a little with ball valve might be just a little more flow?

5. havent checked in a few days but 100ppm

6. i have done 1 30 gallon partial but i know it needs more like 60 gallon partial monthly. i have only had this for roughly a month or month and half when i moved it from previous owner i kept 200 gallons of water that was in tank and mixed 30 more and then about week and half later did a 30 gallon partial and nothing since. i will check nitrates and post back as of today but i know this skimmer i have isnt doing what it is suppose to.

7. i have a 35 watt deep blue clarity uv in tank filter, two koralia good size powerheads. i thought of plumbing new skimmer so it is its own circuit coming out of tank and back in tank just because size restrictions in sump, and also adding more circulation?

8. return pump, heater, junk skimmer.
 
first off this is my first saltwater tank but have some experience with sumps in fresh but i bought this setup used hoping to ease and speed setup time which it did tank was going for 4 years and then i bought it moved it and setup same day. thanks for all the help. i have looked alot at lifereef seems to be great products. he has a skimmer ive been looking at same skimmer can either be in sump hang on or stand alone depending on pump. ?? Do you have a link to this? It sounds like it is too small also. For a tank this big you want to be looking at a quality skimmer rated in 400 gallon range.

1. yes sump good

2. pro clear aquatic systems 36x12x12 roughly. suppose to be rated for 1200gph Decent amount of space. Does it already have baffles to break it up into separate areas? I would be looking to have the heaters, new skimmer, return pump, and a "refugium" area. There should be enough space for this. Basic sump setup for this would be incoming water from tank directly into skimmer area, then baffles, then refugium with some rock rubble and some Chaetomorpha algae. The algae would need a light, but you can buy a clip on shop light and either 5k or 6.5k bulb for it and be good to go. The algae will compete with the tank for nutrients and consume phosphates and wastes. When it grows you harvest it and throw it away, thus removing nutrients from the tank. Then more baffles, then the heaters(could also go in skimmer area based on space) and return pump.

3. id say roughly 200 pound of live rock. sand bed is from 3" to 5" Good and good. Is the sand "used" from the guy you got it from? Was it cleaned? I think part of the reason you are having really high nitrates is from moving it all. When moving an established tank(you said 4 years), you are churning up all that settled waste and creating a nutrient spike.

4. sump is rated for 1200gph. i have 2 lifereef overflows rated at 600 each for 1200, and im using a mag 1800 pump wide open at roughly 4'. recently switched from 1200 and 1800 did help fill up inner boxes more but thinking i could have went with 2400 and cut it down just a little with ball valve might be just a little more flow? This setup sounds good. I wouldn't worry about getting a bigger pump, you have to be pretty close to maxing out the 2 overflows anyway.

5. havent checked in a few days but 100ppm That is high, again partially from the move. I guess asking what the inhabitants are and how you feed should have been questions also because these can make a huge difference. What fish and what food? Frequency of feedings?

6. i have done 1 30 gallon partial but i know it needs more like 60 gallon partial monthly. i have only had this for roughly a month or month and half when i moved it from previous owner i kept 200 gallons of water that was in tank and mixed 30 more and then about week and half later did a 30 gallon partial and nothing since. i will check nitrates and post back as of today but i know this skimmer i have isnt doing what it is suppose to. Agree here, depending on the livestock. If you are going to do 1 water change a month is should be 50 gallons or more. 2 water changes a month at 30 gallons each would be preferable.

7. i have a 35 watt deep blue clarity uv in tank filter, two koralia good size powerheads. i thought of plumbing new skimmer so it is its own circuit coming out of tank and back in tank just because size restrictions in sump, and also adding more circulation? The skimmer idea would be difficult to do, so I wouldn't try that. You would have to have a pump in the tank to achieve this and would have to have the skimmer "hanging" on the side of the tank. Just stick it in the sump. If you want more circulation(and I think you do :)), you should look to get a few more Koralia's. What number are the ones you have now? If you have 2 Koralia 7's or 8's now you might be ok, but otherwise I would look to add 2 more Koralia's.

8. return pump, heater, junk skimmer.

Sounds like a good setup and we should be able to help you out to get those nitrates down.
 
http://lifereef.com/frame.html first 3 on skimmers page are same but different configurations.

the sump has 2 inlets atop of bio balls then flows through a sponge filter through hole into clean end of sump (open end) but it barely has room for what i have now the junk skimmer is in there but the one im looking at is too big to go in sump. it is just a wet/dry type with no real place for refugium or such. they are koralia 4's 2 of them. the sand and rock was all used but the rock is not looking great im thinking due to high nitrates? it looks quite ugly with green algae on it no good looking stuff. 2 large eels large lionfish black trigger squirrel eye fish. so what should i do? where is best place to direct powerheads? just make sure all water is moving right? what about this high dollar uv filter its deep blue in tank submersible 35 watt? the lady i got it from let it go a while without care due to her newborns but i cleaned it all up but didnt do too much to destroy all bacteria looks alot better than she had it just trying to take next step. she still had fish living in it when i got it. i let it sit for 2 weeks running then started adding fish. thanks for everything.
 
http://lifereef.com/frame.html first 3 on skimmers page are same but different configurations. I can't say I know much about this company or how well those skimmers would work. The first 3 are all rated at 250 gallons, and I would look for one rated higher like I said before.

the sump has 2 inlets atop of bio balls !!! Well I found another part of the problem, bioballs shouldn't be used in any saltwater application like they should for freshwater. They produce a ton of nitrates. I would pull all of the bioballs, they should create space to put something, hopefully enough space for a skimmer. then flows through a sponge filter Keep this thing cleaned frequent, it can produce a lot of nitrates too. through hole into clean end of sump (open end) but it barely has room for what i have now the junk skimmer is in there but the one im looking at is too big to go in sump. it is just a wet/dry type with no real place for refugium or such. Does the sponge filter take up a lot of space? You should have a pretty big compartment in the middle(especially if the skimmer goes in the first compartment.). they are koralia 4's 2 of them. Good, but I would get 2 more or bigger ones. the sand and rock was all used but the rock is not looking great im thinking due to high nitrates? Yes, high nutrient water will cause the rock to lose coralline algae and get covered with hair algae and cyanobacteria. it looks quite ugly with green algae on it no good looking stuff. 2 large eels large lionfish black trigger squirrel eye fish. so what should i do? where is best place to direct powerheads? If you get 2 more, put 2 on each end pointed across the tank. 1 powerhead on each side should be pretty high up and pointed at the surface to keep it agitated. just make sure all water is moving right? what about this high dollar uv filter its deep blue in tank submersible 35 watt? I don't think you need to use it. It won't really help water quality. It will somewhat limit algae from spreading really fast, but it's your water quality that will matter long term. The UV won't stop the algae if you don't get the water up to par. The UV can be used if you are having problems with parasites on your fish, but is far from a cure all for that either. I personally don't think you should waste your money to buy new bulbs every 6 months(won't work unless you replace them this frequently). the lady i got it from let it go a while without care due to her newborns but i cleaned it all up but didnt do too much to destroy all bacteria looks alot better than she had it just trying to take next step. she still had fish living in it when i got it. i let it sit for 2 weeks running then started adding fish. thanks for everything.

I guess I have told what I think you should do step by step.
 
so maybe get 2 more koralia 7's? something better than 4's? can you have too much ??


this is my sump http://www.pro-clear.com/images/catalog/Catalog.pdf premier 300 on page 5? not much to work with without changing alot

i also have a 75 gallon fish only no live rock just fiji pink sand and fish with 400 bio wheel hang on back and 1200 cascade canister filter i know this may require more attention and maintenance but otherwise should be good? and koralia powerheads.
 
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