nitrates

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
so maybe get 2 more koralia 7's? something better than 4's? can you have too much ??


this is my sump http://www.pro-clear.com/images/catalog/Catalog.pdf premier 300 on page 5? not much to work with without changing alot

i also have a 75 gallon fish only no live rock just fiji pink sand and fish with 400 bio wheel hang on back and 1200 cascade canister filter i know this may require more attention and maintenance but otherwise should be good? and koralia powerheads.

If I am looking at that picture correctly, all you would have to do is pull the bioballs and intial foam filter. Whatever holds it up should be pulled too(usually eggcrate). Then put flexible hose on both the inlets to extend them to the water level you maintain so it is quiet. There should be plenty of space in that chamber now for a skimmer. You will have to skip the refuge with this setup, but having a quality skimmer in that first chamber is your best bet anyway.

Sounds like your other tank does need a lot of maintenance. Canister filters are less than ideal for saltwater tanks as they too become nitrate factories. Make sure you keep both the filters cleaned as frequently as possible and keep a good water change schedule. Live rock IMO is the foundation for a saltwater tank and I would look to add some as soon as possible. It provides a natural habitat, filters your water, and creates a home for little critters which are great for your tank. You don't need to buy all "live rock", buy mostly dry rock and seed it with a piece or two of live rock. The dry rock will turn into "live" in time.
 
With Nitrates @100ppm and no serious algae bloom I'd expect that nitrite is also present and the tank is re-cycling from the move. This usually means daily water changes til' nitrites are zero. If you remove the bio-balls all at once expect the nitrites and ammonia to get to high levels as well. The bacteria on the bioballs does convert stuff to nitrate and denitrifying colonies take a very longtime to develop. More than likely at this point to save the fish it will have to be physically removed via w/c's and help from some type of nitrate nuetralizing media. Skimmers and such will help in the long run but they remove the solids before they become nitrates - it is not gonna remove the present nitrate issue.

Just curious - how many fish do you have in the 220 and how big?
 
With Nitrates @100ppm and no serious algae bloom I'd expect that nitrite is also present and the tank is re-cycling from the move. This usually means daily water changes til' nitrites are zero. If you remove the bio-balls all at once expect the nitrites and ammonia to get to high levels as well. The bacteria on the bioballs does convert stuff to nitrate and denitrifying colonies take a very longtime to develop. More than likely at this point to save the fish it will have to be physically removed via w/c's and help from some type of nitrate nuetralizing media. Skimmers and such will help in the long run but they remove the solids before they become nitrates - it is not gonna remove the present nitrate issue.

Just curious - how many fish do you have in the 220 and how big?

Good point here. Something important that I forgot to include, removing the bioballs slowly. I would say to remove about 1/4 of them a week until they are gone, but don't start doing this if there is ammonia or nitrite still present. Your system would still be depending on them too much to try to get through the cycle it is in because it is new.

In regards to flow, you really can't overdo it. The only downside to "too much flow" is your sandbed moving around. If you tinker with the powerheads a bit you shouldn't have any problems. I think adding 2 Koralia 6's or 7's would be a good idea. You could then place one of the new ones on each end and one of the 4's on each end and get some good flow in the tank.
 
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