Nitrite will not go away...

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Assuming everything is being measured correctly (e.g., no bad test kits), and adding the post from June 26 (?) you made...


From the post you made at the end of June (where you said you had been measuring ammonia and nitrites and they were always zero), we can guess that 1) your tank was cycled or 2) your measurements were in error. A test for nitrates (at that time) would have been the test that would validated a conclusion. I don't see that you posted having tested nitrate then or since.

However, it would still be great to see what your nitrates are today. IMO a tank isn't certifiable as cycled unless a significant and growing amount of nitrates is detected (barring some other explanation for where nitrates may be going, e.g., plants.)

Your OP now is that nitrates jumped when you added fish. How many and what size fish did you add? How much and what are you feeding them?

That would be perfectly reasonable IF you had increased the bio load enormously "when you added more fish." Nitrosomonas bacteria multiply much faster than nitrobacter and both multiply differently under varying temperature, salinity, ph, etc.

Despite that, the only explanation I can conjure for why the nitrite "has never gone down" is because food continues to be put into the tank. If nitrites are at .25 all the time, but the fish are being fed, then the amount of food is too much and needs to be reduced until the BB catches up. There must be nitrobacter in the tank, otherwise nitrites would be far higher than .25.

You indicated that you "keep" your pH at 7. I take that to mean that it isn't always at 7, since it's normally not possible to make the pH be exactly one number at all times. If the pH routinely goes below 6.0, for example, the BB cease to reproduce and to process ammonia or nitrites, while at 6.5 they are much less efficient.

The optimal metrics (from 2 studies I found) to grow BB is 7.8 - 8.5 pH and 59-77 F. When conditions differ, it becomes less than optimal. Higher temperatures and lower pH plus a large increase in bioload would, for all intents and purposes, be a mini cycle.

I'd reduce the food level and let the BB catch up with whatever bioload is in the tank.

As for the GH/KH issues, I'm pretty short on info there. I don't recall seeing anyone claim in test that those have an effect on BB. (That of course proves nothing other that I don't if it does or doesn't.) I wonder, not only because BB exists in all sorts of water, but because the water that you have been using before and were using at the end of June (for a month), seemed to be having no effect despite it's GH/KH levels. Still, I will admit I know almost nothing else on the matter. Trying to fix the hardness might help greatly.


I have used different kits between mine and the LFS and all same results. I'm also testing a different tank at home so I know the kit isn't faulty. Nitrate currently is at 30ppm. I'm not sure what it was back in June. To be honest i really don't test nitrate. I would think there is BB still living and working as well or like you said the nitrite and possibly ammonia too would be off the charts... I do believe the KH is my major problem now as whatever BB I do have most likely is weak. Hopefully now that the KH is going up the BB will start to break down the .25 nitrite
 
Have you tried putting some crushed coral in a bag into the sump? Either way, good luck. I hope the situation improves.

If you can put in some plants like pothos, it should help bridge the gap until your BB gets established. Plants love using up ammonia and nitrite.
 
Oh! I forgot to mention something (surprise).

How quickly are you increasing you KH? It is usually much easier for most fish to go up in KH/pH than down. You can probably increase yours by up to 20ppm at a time to be safe. Once a day. I firmly believe that you can do more than that, but let's keep it safe.

How are you increasing it? A store product? Don't go with Proper pH as it is a phosphate buffer. The cheapest thing would be food-grade baking soda. I add about 100lbs of it a day to the systems at work.

If you want to look into this more you can read the numerous papers on how nitrification works. It consumes carbonate and denitrifying bacteria produce carbonate. Or for a simple explanation just look up "old tank syndrome".
 
Oh! I forgot to mention something (surprise).

How quickly are you increasing you KH? It is usually much easier for most fish to go up in KH/pH than down. You can probably increase yours by up to 20ppm at a time to be safe. Once a day. I firmly believe that you can do more than that, but let's keep it safe.

How are you increasing it? A store product? Don't go with Proper pH as it is a phosphate buffer. The cheapest thing would be food-grade baking soda. I add about 100lbs of it a day to the systems at work.

If you want to look into this more you can read the numerous papers on how nitrification works. It consumes carbonate and denitrifying bacteria produce carbonate. Or for a simple explanation just look up "old tank syndrome".

I've been doing a 40% water change once a week over the past like 4 weeks now as my tap water has a high KH, also using reef builder by seachem while watching it doesn't raise my ph too high. I'm still adding seachem stability to supplement the BB... checked the KH this morning and it's up to 50ppm. Do you think i should stop the water changes at this point to let the BB build up?
 
Joe, what is the pH and KH of your tap water?

I always suggest testing it 2 ways, 1st take a sample in a clean glass container and perform the tests for pH and KH, write down the results. Next, let the sample sit out for 24 hours and perform the tests again. Compare the test results and post them here.
 
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I got this problem happened to me before with my saltwater tank, I took out 50% of my total live rock out of my tank for more open space and I got Nitrite showed on my test for weeks and it didn't go away at all, I put back all the live rocks and within matter of few days all Nitrite gone, so my guess is your tank lacking bio media.
 
I have used different kits between mine and the LFS and all same results. I'm also testing a different tank at home so I know the kit isn't faulty. Nitrate currently is at 30ppm. I'm not sure what it was back in June.

Just out of curiosity what test kits are you using? I ask since the FW API kit measures Nitrates from 20ppm to 40ppm...and most of the time I just assume the higher case to be safe as I can barely tell the color difference. It caught my attention when you called out 30ppm.
 
Just out of curiosity what test kits are you using? I ask since the FW API kit measures Nitrates from 20ppm to 40ppm...and most of the time I just assume the higher case to be safe as I can barely tell the color difference. It caught my attention when you called out 30ppm.

It's an API test kit... color appeared to be between 20 and 40 so I said 30... we can call it 40 like you said to be safe.
 
Joe, what is the pH and KH of your tap water?

I always suggest testing it 2 ways, 1st take a sample in a clean glass container and perform the tests for pH and KH, write down the results. Next, let the sample sit out for 24 hours and perform the tests again. Compare the test results and post them here.


Test results yesterday were ph 7.0, KH 80ppm.. and today after sample sat for 24 hours ph went up to 7.6 and KH stayed the same.. thoughts?
 
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