Last time filter was cleaned about 3months ago . It's due to be opended and cleaned about now realistically . Media is washed in tank water just to clarify
Nitrite won't drop
- Thread starter Rghfor
- Start date
Your tank is 150 gallons, correct?
I was not able to find the info on the fx5, so i used the fx6.
The fx6 flows 563 gph. Most people i know shoot for 8-10 times turnover per hour. Rays need atleast 10 in my experience. Even 12 could not hurt.
you are running 150 gallons with a 563gph turnover. That is under 3 times per hour. I would not be comfortable with that on my system. That turnover rate my be good for "regular" fish, but i think your mature ray is really taxing the system.
Good luck
What test kit are you using? Everyone I've found doesn't go any lower than .25, and many don't go below .5.
Regardless, nitrite of .05 ppm is negligible, even for a long term.
Long term studies indicate fish acclimate to .05 ppm and show no adverse effects (the immune system, appetite, growth, general health are not affected.)
That doesn't mean you shouldn't reduce it, but it's not an issue other than possibly for fry or eggs.
I agree with you in most of this statement but he must find out why he is getting that .05 reading because he may be putting the Motoro Ray in jeopardy. As I stated before Sharks and Ray's can't handle nitrite's and yes it could just be his test equipment or the vials themselves.
I'm not in reality happy with any reading but 0 it's not healthy .
Are you rinsing your test vials with DI water after each test?
I was a chemist and after every test we would rinse each vial at least 3 times with DI water to remove residual. And tap water won't do, especially if your supplier use chloramine as a disinfectant
You are dealing with parts per million, so even the slightest residual can skew numbers especially the numbers you are getting.
But beyond that, the filter rate, and filter you are using is really wimpy for the setup you have, as stated by others.
You need to up your pump age and filtration.
Your filter might be adequate according to the manufacturers info, but manufacturers base their info on a community tank of neons, guppies, and a gourami or 2, not the kind of fish kept by members here.
To be real you need to quadruple what a manufacturer recommends as a minimum.
I was a chemist and after every test we would rinse each vial at least 3 times with DI water to remove residual. And tap water won't do, especially if your supplier use chloramine as a disinfectant
You are dealing with parts per million, so even the slightest residual can skew numbers especially the numbers you are getting.
But beyond that, the filter rate, and filter you are using is really wimpy for the setup you have, as stated by others.
You need to up your pump age and filtration.
Your filter might be adequate according to the manufacturers info, but manufacturers base their info on a community tank of neons, guppies, and a gourami or 2, not the kind of fish kept by members here.
To be real you need to quadruple what a manufacturer recommends as a minimum.
I had minor nitrite issues recently. (Solved it with adding air to my bio-media. Then added better media).
I was reading 0 ammonia and trace nitrites. Not sure why. i continued to tested profusely and never had any ammonia.
