nitrites are high, lil help please

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I'm not going to get into a debate over this. Doing water changes will not hurt the fish nor will it slow down any cycle whether it be a mini cycle or the end of a cycling process.

Ben you can do as you like, what I am suggesting will not hurt in any way other then causing you to do some work. Other's suggestions may be fatal for your arowana.
 
Okay well the aro is very active as it has been since day 1 and the other tank mate which is a "characin" is very active as well. So i dont believe theres any stress. The only sign that i was worried about was friday night the aro had a bloated stomach. But i believe it was a different issue, my buddy was telling me the bloated stomach was prolly due to digestion back up. And suggested not to feed him for a few days and to which im following. Yesterday morning i woke up, he was still a lil bloated but today he is back to normal, no bloating. So what does every1 think i should do? no wc or wc??
 
i have absolutely no problem doing work, im just getting back into the hobby and i feel like i never left it. ill work on the tank everyday if i had to. just want to do the best thing as far as getting these nitrites down.
 
A article on nitrite poisonin



Names: Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite Poisoning


Description:

Nitrite poisoning follows closely on the heels of ammonia as a major killer of aquarium fish. Just when you think you are home free after losing half your fish to ammonia poisoning, the nitrites rise and put your fish at risk again. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated, elevated nitrites will soon follow. To avoid nitrite poisoning, test when setting up a new tank, when adding new fish to established an tank, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, and when medicating sick fish.

Symptoms:

Fish gasp for breath at the water surface
Fish hang near water outlets
Fish is listless
Tan or brown gills
Rapid gill movement

Also known as 'brown blood disease' because the blood turns brown from a increase of methemoglobin. However, methemoglobin causes a more serious problem than changing the color of the blood. It renders the blood unable to carry oxygen, and the fish can literally suffocate even though there is ample oxygen present in the water.
Different species of fish tolerate differing levels of nitrite. Some fish may simply be listless, while others may die suddenly with no obvious signs of illness. Common symptoms include gasping at the surface of the water, hanging near water outlets, rapid gill movement, and a change in gill color from tan to dark brown.
Fish that are exposed to even low levels of nitrite for long periods of time suffer damage to their immune system and are prone to secondary diseases, such as ich, fin rot, and bacterial infections. As methemoglobin levels increase damage occurs to the liver, gills and blood cells. If untreated, affected fish eventually die from lack of oxygen, and/or secondary diseases.


Treatment:

Large water change
Add salt, preferably chlorine salt
Reduce feeding
Increase aeration

The addition of one half ounce of salt per gallon of water will prevent methemoglobin from building up. Chlorine salt is preferable, however any aquarium salt is better than no salt at all. Aeration should be increased to provide ample oxygen saturation in the water. Feedings should be reduced and no new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.
Nitrite is letal at much lower levels than ammonia. Therefore it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the nitrite falls to zero.


Prevention:

Stock new tanks slowly
Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
Change water regularly
Test water regularly to catch problems early

The key to elminating fish death is to avoid extreme spikes and prolonged elevation of nitrites. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. In an established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking.
Feed fish small quantities of foods, and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove an dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small heavily stocked tanks. Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike has occured as there will be a nitrite increase later.
 
Again, not saying don't take care of the issue. The use of prime or other nutrilizing the Nitrite into a non harmful state then I would still not do the water change and allow the bacteria to balance the system out naturally.
 
Okay i think im gunna stick with the 50% wc 2morrow, first ill treat the tap before i enter it in the tank then after entering the treated tap into the tank i will treat the tank again. And good info, my friend who is very intelligent with this stuff, had me add aquarium salt yesterday after the 10% wc i did.
 
Hey guys here is a lil update on my situation. I did a 50% wc today then put the amquel plus in, i did treat the tap water first before i put it in and then the whole tank after becuz i thought it was a lil overkill. But its 5 hours after and my nitrites r already from 5 down to .5!!! Thank you guys very much, didnt know about that amquel or prime stuff. I'll definitly always have that stuff on hand and maybe add a lil after every wc from now on!
 
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