No clue about canister filters

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I prefer sumps to any other filter type contraptions myself, although in reality, all filters do the same thing whether HOB or sumps or whatever, and what makes a filter good, is not the type, but its the amount, and frequency of maintance done on it.
I use filter socks in them for mechanical, put bio-media in mesh bags in them which is then simple to rinse out, put heaters and most other unsightly gear in them, and even grow plants in them. When I add new water after a water change, I always add it to the sump instead of the main tank. They are often limitless as far as filtration possibility go, depending on your imagination, they can contain fluidized beds, chemical reactors and even foam fractionates.
I do not neseccarily place sumps directly below my tanks, I like to use bio-tower fractionation units in them which can be tall, so I will place them to side instead of directly below. The one in the photo below is a 75 gal tank, with a 4 ft tall bio-fractionator in it

I know people who put sumps behind adjacent walls, or even in basements, although the tank is on a floor above
Once running properly they are easy to maintain, and in this way they run continuously even while regular maintenance is being performed.
I usually use old scratched up 50-75 gallon tanks as sumps.
Sumps can be noisy, and can be problematic just like any other filter, unless you have the proper fluid dynamics all worked out.
 
I prefer sumps to any other filter type contraptions myself, although in reality, all filters do the same thing whether HOB or sumps or whatever, and what makes a filter good, is not the type, but its the amount, and frequency of maintance done on it.
I use filter socks in them for mechanical, put bio-media in mesh bags in them which is then simple to rinse out, put heaters and most other unsightly gear in them, and even grow plants in them. When I add new water after a water change, I always add it to the sump instead of the main tank. They are often limitless as far as filtration possibility go, depending on your imagination, they can contain fluidized beds, chemical reactors and even foam fractionates.
I do not neseccarily place sumps directly below my tanks, I like to use bio-tower fractionation units in them which can be tall, so I will place them to side instead of directly below. The one in the photo below is a 75 gal tank, with a 4 ft tall bio-fractionator in it

I know people who put sumps behind adjacent walls, or even in basements, although the tank is on a floor above
Once running properly they are easy to maintain, and in this way they run continuously even while regular maintenance is being performed.
I usually use old scratched up 50-75 gallon tanks as sumps.
Sumps can be noisy, and can be problematic just like any other filter, unless you have the proper fluid dynamics all worked out.
 
duanes duanes , getting the fluid dynamics right is what worries me the most about the sumps. yet the ability to do almost whatever I want to filter my tank sounds great. So far the filters I have been relying on are Aquaclear HOB and they do a great job and are easy to clean. But I have maxed out the amount of biomedia I can add to each one and after researching a sump or a canister would allow me to add alot more bio media and mechamical filtration for my setups.
That Biofractioner of yours definitly looks like a good idea that I have to research into more also.
 
On any tanks of mine, that are not on sumps, say a small one like a 55 gal, I line the entire back of the tank with HOBs (sometimes an extra on the side), 4, sometimes 5 if they fit. Then usually clean one per day, and start over.
 
duanes said:
On any tanks of mine, that are not on sumps, say a small one like a 55 gal, I line the entire back of the tank with HOBs (sometimes an extra on the side), 4, sometimes 5 if they fit. Then usually clean one per day, and start over.
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This doesn't create too chaotic of a current for the fish?
 
It might create too much current if you have placid water species like Betta's, gouramis, angels, discus etc.
But I've kept riverine cichlid species that 5 HOBs barely phase.
And because HOBs simple cascade water into the tank, not much of a problem.
Most of the influent from the pumps I use, (the GPH) is far greater than even 5 HOBs produce.

You can tell by the way the plants lean due to the current the strength of flow I use at one end of the tank.

Even many smaller species kept (like barbs, live bearers, and tetras) live in fast flowing stream enviroments that have threatened to push me out to sea, while the fish barely notice when I have snorkeled there. Parts of the Cenote in the video below, were very strong.
Azul imovie edit
 
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Sumps offer the greatest flexibility and also add volume to the system. The extra volume can make keeping nitrates in line much easier. If you are shopping tanks, look for one that is manufactured with overflows already installed, often called "reef ready" since most reef tanks are filtered with a sump.
 
Thank you duanes duanes your knowledge has been quite helpful. I think I will increase the water circulation and do a mix of filter types. I'm going to do more reasearch into the plumbing for sumps and add a canister or more hob filters.
 
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