No love for check valves?

[knobhill]

I use the clear pvc check valves on my return lines from the sump. They help with water changes because I can turn off my pump without the fear of back siphon bc my returns are located 6"-10" under the waterline with flow accelerators. If the logic is "because they fail" then buy the type with unions so that the rubber flap can be replaced when needed. Also, the clear type allows you to see it is in tact.

 

[Jc1119]

It's not that they will fail per say, but debris can build up in your PVC after a while. This will result in getting a bad seal. This would cause the check valve to leak. Of course, check valves aren't known for holding back a good amount of water without leaking a bit. This in not a 100% sure fire thing, but there is the chance of failure.

Then you go back to the flow restrictions that they can cause. They do in fact restrict flow as it blocks and/or can cause cavitation in the lines.

Nothing wrong with check valves I guess. But to me, there's no point in using them when I have plenty of more suitable options at my disposal.

So you prefer siphon breaks? Or better yet, what do you prefer?

 

[Jc1119]

I use the clear pvc check valves on my return lines from the sump. They help with water changes because I can turn off my pump without the fear of back siphon bc my returns are located 6"-10" under the waterline with flow accelerators. If the logic is "because they fail" then buy the type with unions so that the rubber flap can be replaced when needed. Also, the clear type allows you to see it is in tact.

I've always used union balk checks for ease of maintenance/ replacement. I ve never had any of mine " fail" but I do perform regular maintenance so it's never been an issue.

 

[Pharaoh]

I prefer to have my system setup without siphons. Good old fashioned gurgle maker drain lines.

You really would only need check valves on the return lines.. I prefer to keep my returns out of the water unless they are on a closed loop.

 

[Jc1119]

I prefer to have my system setup without siphons. Good old fashioned gurgle maker drain lines.

You really would only need check valves on the return lines.. I prefer to keep my returns out of the water unless they are on a closed loop.

My returns are the only place I've ever used them. And I haven't used a full siphon drain system yet, but my next will have 1 1/2" full siphon drains( Herbie).

Silence is the key with this system as it will sit about 5 feet from the family living area. Not my call. The wifes!! Lol.

 

[Joe M]

I got ripped apart for some reason a few months ago because I used check valves on my 300 as well as a siphon break. The dude acted like I spent his money on the things.

I know that I wish I had them a week or so ago on my 125. I had a small piece of talapia in my overflow, and when I cut the pump power, the talapia got sucked into the hole and the end result was about 20 gallons in the stand. Everybody on this website is all about overdoing, safety, ect. but mention a check valve and you get a worse reaction than the people with RTCs in 55 gallon tanks.

 

[Jc1119]

I got ripped apart for some reason a few months ago because I used check valves on my 300 as well as a siphon break. The dude acted like I spent his money on the things.

I know that I wish I had them a week or so ago on my 125. I had a small piece of talapia in my overflow, and when I cut the pump power, the talapia got sucked into the hole and the end result was about 20 gallons in the stand. Everybody on this website is all about overdoing, safety, ect. but mention a check valve and you get a worse reaction that the people with RTCs in 55 gallon tanks.

Lol. That's just the thing. I figure I'm going to spend around 5k all in on my new 300g acrylic setup, but the minute I mention throwing s $25 check on my return, someone always wants to point out the fact that " they can fail". I appreciate all input wether I agree or not, but it seems silly to not use one because of something that could possibly happen.

I plan on building this system with dual overflows with no teeth( freshwater now, but building for a possible reef setup in the future) and 1 1/2" dual Herbie style drains. Full siphon drains positioned towards the top of the overflows, so if or when the pumps are cut off, I'll have about a gallon back siphon into my sump. No problem there. Why not use siphon breaks on the returns and a decent check valve? I like redundancy and if I can avoid any floods of any size, it just doesn't make sense not to.

Silence is also a necessity for this system. Overflows, sump and returns. This will mean the returns need to be a little under the water line at the very least to be quiet. So siphon breaks and checks for me. Like you said, tilapia, snails or a fish(plecos, dead, etc) could be covering the siphon break so why not have a little more insurance. If it did something detrimental or cost a fortune, I might see the point, but if it's personal preference, then I prefer to keep all the water in my tank. Just my opinion of course.

 

[frnchjeep]

I use the good old fashioned syphon break. I would never rely on a check valve, because there isn't a 100% chance they will work when you need them to. Even a brand new one can stick. Syphon breaks don't get clogged, because when the pump is running, there is water flowing through the hole constantly. It is staying flushed out. In theory, if it ever did clog, the reversing of the flow in the pipe should suck the clog out, anyway. Also, if a break does get clogged, you know it ahead of time, because there won't be water flowing from the hole that is above water. If a check valve fails, you know it when you are mopping the floor. I have been running breaks for years, and haven't yet seen one come even close to clogging. If one does clog, the hole is probably too small.

In the original post, you compared a check valve to a canister. True, a canister does need to be cleaned, and the pump will wear out some day. However, when it is dirty, flow will slow, and the tank will look dirty with crap floating around. Then you clean it. You have an indication that it needs servicing. You don't get that with a failing check valve. I'm also not relying on a canister filter to possibly hold back a couple hundred gallons of water while I'm at work.

It is also very possible to keep a system dead silent without the use of check valves. The outputs can be underwater, just the break has to be above water. If the break is sucking up debris when the pump is shut off, then it is too close to the surface. It should be far enough away from the surface to only suck air as soon as the pump is shut off.

I suppose the perfect setup would be a check valve AND a syphon break, because the chances of them both failing at once would be extremely rare. However if I had to run one OR the other, I would not be at all comfortable with a check valve without a break for backup.

 

[Joe M]

I always keep my siphon breaks underwater about an 8th of an inch so they aren't constantly spewing water everywhere. The breaks are in the overflow, so it only drains about a quart of water before it sucks air. Like I said, I has one clog last week, about 2 weeks after i removed my plumbing and removed algae on the pvc.

I actually clean all of my filters on a routine, as well as check my plumbing parts. I don't really need a visual cue for any of my maintenance.

 

[frnchjeep]

I always keep my siphon breaks underwater about an 8th of an inch so they aren't constantly spewing water everywhere. The breaks are in the overflow, so it only drains about a quart of water before it sucks air. Like I said, I has one clog last week, about 2 weeks after i removed my plumbing and removed algae on the pvc.
Thats why they are sucking debris and clogging.

I actually clean all of my filters on a routine, as well as check my plumbing parts. I don't really need a visual cue for any of my maintenance.
You realize that if you got rid of the check valve, there wouldn't be anything mechanical in your plumbing, and there wouldn't ever be a need to take it apart again?/QUOTE]