non-feeding fahaka

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Nitrite should be zero in a fully cycled setup.

The rest looks ok to me. :)

I guess some pic would help.
 
How long has the tank been set up? What is your water change schedule?

Agree with the above--nitrites should be 0 at all times in a fully cycled tank & will cause enough discomfort to stop a puffer from eating. Shrimp should be served with the shell on.
For other food ideas
 
I feed the shrimp with the shell on, it was a typo before. Once week water changes 25 to 30 percent. The tank is over a year old. Fed her this morning a frozen crayfish and she ripped it apart. looks like she may be back to her normal self.
 
That's great! You stil need to get those nitrites down. I always suggest, due to their messy eating habits & high waste production, a 50% minimum weekly WC. Be sure to clean around & under al the decor & clean the gravel. There must be some uneaten food somewhere. I actually do 75-80% weekly WC, as long as I have the Python out anyway. Mine has lots of tank mates though.
 
hope every thing gos back to normal they don't eat very often but eat alot when they do keep those chopers worn down and do a good water change and you should be fine also what kind of filtration do you have puffers need very clean water
also i once saw a 16'' fahaka in a 180 gallon he was mean too he would follow your finger around very cool fish
 
Pufferpunk what tankmates do you have with your fahaka? Also when you do that large of a water change how careful do you need to be with the temperature of the incoming water? It is tough finding all the un eaten food.
The tank has two aqualcear 110 and a XP3.
 
sounds good
but be very carefull puffers are very sensitive make sure that the water is the same or close to the same temp as your tank but there sensitive to ph to so watch that and are very sensitive to nitrates but thats why you do water changes so really you just need to watch temp and make sure theres no amonium
 
After doing WC for 30 years (now have 9 tanks), I've figured out pretty close, where to turn the spigots, to get close to the origional water temp.

There are about 1% of the Fahakas that do allow tank mates. Even though, everyone needs their own territory & the tank has to be large enough. I happen to have a 10" fahaka that was moved to a 55g (at 5") with 2 with plecos & a softshell turtle. Within 2 days, the whole back rim of the turtle's shell was scallopped, so he got his own tank.

He now lives in a 125g with:
12" Goldspot pleco
6" sailfin pleco
10" Yellow-finned chalcius
2 7" Clown loaches
9" Lancer catfish
5" Rainbow shark
6" Redtail shark
5" Bosmani rainbow
7" Frontosa
8" & 9" Elephant noses.
Occasionally there is a fin nipped but all in all, he's a wimp & the Goldspot & Frontosa is always kicking him out of his cave.
 
I have a very docile fahaka also.. pretty much leaves other tankmates alone.. but I wouldn't put anything in there that I would miss if it became a meal...
.. the next time your Fahaka isn't eating.. toss in a live crayfish.. if it doesn't get torn up... well you definantly have a problem...
... ohh yeah.. H2O parameters.. blah .. blah.. what they said...
 
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