Not if, but HOW floor support.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Hello; First thing from your pictures. It looks as some sort of "wedges" were cut and driven in to take up the space on one of the support columns. They may be fine as they are but I would check them out. That they are at differing angles caught my eye. Also the angle they are cut at makes me suspect they may not be driven very deep into the space. ( It seems to me that the pitch could have more shallow.)

You may already know this but wood that touches dirt should be the treated type to discourage termites. Also wood on dirt will likely draw moisture. I would likely pour a cement footer or use the preformed cement bases.

Also try to determine if the soil is compacted where the supports will be placed and not some sort of fill. If you think it may be fill, then some sort of adjustable support may be better to use. A screw jack perhaps.

One thing you may also consider is to "block" between the joists. A block of dimensional lumber cut to fit betweeen the floor joists. This ties the joists together structurally and is supposed to help transfer the load. You can still (and likely should) add support columns under the joists.

Sistering will make the flooor structure stronger and also should be in addition to the support columns. The issue with sistering often is having the space and clearance to manuver the long bit of lumber about and get into place. Also are there any plumbing or electrical runs to deal with. If you can sister consider the use of both construction adhesive and screws to adhear the new joist to the old.

The photos others posted show some of the various ways to approach the job. There is no one right way. Working in a crawl space can be tough. I counted the blocks in one of your pictures. If they are eight inch blocks you have over 40 inches. That is a decent crawl space with more room than many. Still going to be a chore.

Good luck.
 
Hello; First thing from your pictures. It looks as some sort of "wedges" were cut and driven in to take up the space on one of the support columns. They may be fine as they are but I would check them out. That they are at differing angles caught my eye. Also the angle they are cut at makes me suspect they may not be driven very deep into the space. ( It seems to me that the pitch could have more shallow.)

You may already know this but wood that touches dirt should be the treated type to discourage termites. Also wood on dirt will likely draw moisture. I would likely pour a cement footer or use the preformed cement bases.

Also try to determine if the soil is compacted where the supports will be placed and not some sort of fill. If you think it may be fill, then some sort of adjustable support may be better to use. A screw jack perhaps.

One thing you may also consider is to "block" between the joists. A block of dimensional lumber cut to fit betweeen the floor joists. This ties the joists together structurally and is supposed to help transfer the load. You can still (and likely should) add support columns under the joists.

Sistering will make the flooor structure stronger and also should be in addition to the support columns. The issue with sistering often is having the space and clearance to manuver the long bit of lumber about and get into place. Also are there any plumbing or electrical runs to deal with. If you can sister consider the use of both construction adhesive and screws to adhear the new joist to the old.

The photos others posted show some of the various ways to approach the job. There is no one right way. Working in a crawl space can be tough. I counted the blocks in one of your pictures. If they are eight inch blocks you have over 40 inches. That is a decent crawl space with more room than many. Still going to be a chore.

Good luck.
thanks for the warning, but they're actually in there pretty well and from what the home inspector came back with said it looks like they were put in about 1970's so I'm not to concerned there. The ground isn't to compacted and I've already taken a trowel and dug down to where the dirt is firmer and I have a couple of those pyramid style cinder blocks left over from a deck job. I'm not to sure of my clearance at that point because I live on a pretty steep slope so I go from 7 feet clearance to slab foundation. Regardless I'll try sistering/blocking/jacking. Seems like that might be my safest?
 
Regardless I'll try sistering/blocking/jacking. Seems like that might be my safest?

Hello; First thing is to consider any advice I or others give remotely to be suspect. We are not on the scene. The pictures alone cannot give us a comprenhesive understanding and I may be making assumptions not warranted by the actual facts. Think about what you going to do and use your own best judgment.

That said the project is fairly straight foreward in general. Use the right materials. Make the upright supports plumb. Have a good base.

The thing from your posts that strikes me so far is the condition of the ground. When a house is put on previously undisturbed ground, that ground has be compacted over a long time. You dig down below the frost line for the area and have a good base for the footer.
If the ground is not compacted, then it may settle more under weight. This is why I thought of an adjustable support column of some sort. Those wedges (from your photo) we have discussed may be an indicator of a repair of such settlement. That is why they caught my attention as they appear to have been added after the floor was in place??

Good Luck
 
I put an order in for a couple jacks that fit a 4x4 post this morning that way if there is settlement I can adjust accordingly. I understand that nobody knows for sure what will happen I just mainly wanted to see what the safest (for most people) way to go about doing this is. I'm assuming that between the separate methods of support I'll be ok.... I hope.
 
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