Novus 1-2-3 plastic polishing kit

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Actually I never would have bought it the way it looks if I hadn't seen a row of old empty acrylic tanks at my LFS that were being cleaned which looked about as bad but remarkably clearer when filled.

I just know that now before filling it is my chance to get it as clear as possible and any improvement toward clarity now will go along why in looks when filled. What is most amazing to me about this 100 gallon acrylic tank is that I can tuck it under one arm and walk with it LOL. Also that for its age (the lighting fixture warranted stamped 04/98 Cali Aquarium Supply Co.) it still strong and holds water without leaking (knock on wood).

So we will see as Im going to get that buffer today and do my best to get it back to showroom even though Im pretty sure its seen everything from saltwater (first owner) to fresh-water (2nd owner) to reptiles last owner.
 
My shoulders hurt just looking at that tank.
Hint: Start with the back where it doesn't matter as much. Do the front last on day 2 after you have mastered the technique.
 
if this is the first one... top, sides, back then front...
 
I sort of wish the side panels had defined edges instead of the bowed corner leading to the front cause like a glass tank I would test the sides out first. I mean what if like on a glass tank the back is actually more pristine. I have had to use the backside of a couple old CL glass tanks becasue the front took dog or owner abuse. Although in this case an acrylic back would not look or serve well facing front and new access holes would have to be drilled.

Any recommendations on what to use to initially clean all the gunk, mud and silt out? I was considering the pressure washer but that might be a bad idea. Perhaps upside-down using just a garden nozzle will clean it out. After that I have to use Novus 1 right? No messing with 409, windex, Orange clean, denatured alcohol, or even WDV diluted with RO?

I didn't buy the 1000-1200 grit sand paper becasue they don't carry it. Apparently I need to visit an automotive paint store and besides like someone suggested better to use Novus 3 to see what I have.

I bought the Robi for $24, and extra bonnet $5, and $8 for 100 Lbs of medium grit aquarium sand. But once againe I diden't remember to ask for my 10% veteran discount. I figure each time I grimace over forgetting will help me remember before I pay LOL. Those sand bags get heavier every year...
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Update. Did a little reading on how to clean acrylic sheet for polishing and manufacturers recommended mild soap detergent but no cleaners so I used 1/2 ounce of auto wash detergent (pretty mild) in 2.5 gallons of warm water with a new microfiber towel warped around a new toilet brush . The microfiber really sticks to the bristles and the toilet brush has a very natural angle for reaching and cleaning like a human hand.

After cleaning out all the residue I was able to see what I was faced with and as suspected the back is in better condition then the front. I also noticed that I was mistaken about the acrylic thickness as only the top and bottom panels are 1/4", but the front wrap-around and back panels are 3/8".

There are only 3 spots of concern, two bottom corner chips and one spreading crack from the corner of the top panel where the privious owner enlarged the back filter slot with what appears to be a dull shoehorn.

Tomorrow I start polishing but tonight I left the tank with 2 gallons of water tilted to the side where the two bottom corners are chipped to verify no leaking. Im planning after I have finished all polishing to sandpaper the inside of those 2 bottom corners (photo below) and apply silicone used for plastics. Also a drill hole to intersect the top panel crack (photo below) and 1 inch top and bottom acrylic patch.

Any thoughts, concerns or recommendations on doing that?
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Well reporting back since you guys gave me the recommendations on tools and method. Although I have allot of experience with hand and power tools this is my first polisher although I have used floor polishers.

So far that little $24 polisher works harder then I expected, in fact even with the polisher its hard work and relatively slow progress. Without reading anything I just added 1/2 teaspoon of Novus 3 to the terrycloth polishing pad, made the surface damp with microfiber cloth and started polishing the back panel.

I hope I didn't get ripped off when I bought this kit at auction cause whatever that white cream is in Novus 3 it is painfully slow to see results. I mean there was a few flecks of old paint and water spots on the back that were not even coming off. Of course I never sty in one spot but keep the polisher pad moving in tight orbits that eventually cover 1/2 of the back panel, then the other half.

After 20 minutes and almost zero results I decided to try a pumas paste I use to polish glass by hand "Heavy Duty Rubbing compound" (HDRC) and finally I started seeing real results as the old paint and water spots even scratches started to diaper.

Completing the inside and outside back with a combo of Novus 3 & HDRC the back looked uniform and much less opaque. There is one area along the top where there is some stubborn water minerals and so Im going to use my sanding block and 1000 grit wet/dry automotive sand paper and guess Ill find out if 1000 is too course for a final hit of Novus3 & HDRC, if so Ill just have to pick up a pack of 2000 but will try hard to buff it out without burning.

OK then, Ill let you know if the Novus 2 I got in the plastic baggie is the real deal or cornstarch and water in a bottle on this next test run..
 
Where is that crack in relation to the edge of the tank ? I would seriously consider taking a Dremel tool or drum sander to to hacked out part of that hole to try to smooth out the edges and put some radius in the corners. I would also drill a 1/8" hole at the end of the crack. Make very sure the crack doesn't extend thru the drilled hole. Then solvent weld the crack. Just my opinion
 
Sounds good and plan to drill that hole tomorrow. Im afraid to hack and more out cause the LFS owner who has allot of old acrylic tanks told me not to cut too much on the top which is a major cause of damage. I forgot to ask him but what about using thin acrylic sheet like 1/8" on the bottom and top like a little sandwich patch maybe 2" square, that way its not so obvious and intrusive as using full 1/4".

Also do you think the chemicals in silicone will affect the joints in the corner where those chips are? I am tempted to use it as a sealing precaution in those two corners. I know I cannot use any acrylic cement on the joints because it will dissolve them LOL.

Most important question! I finished the back panel with Novus 2 and although the results are a great improvement, I still have some opaqueness even thought i used separate terrycloth bonnets and used an entire ounce of each 8 ounce bottle on the back panel . Do you think its becasue I used a terry cloth bonnet with Novus 3 instead of the fleece bonnet or becasue I did not use enough polishing liquid using only 1 ounce of each 8 ounce bottles?

Oh to answer your question that crack is on thetop panel HOB slot pointing toward the middle-center away from the back panel toward the exact middle of the top panel and actually stops short of center top panel.
 
Sounds good and plan to drill that hole tomorrow. Im afraid to hack and more out cause the LFS owner who has allot of old acrylic tanks told me not to cut too much on the top which is a major cause of damage. I forgot to ask him but what about using thin acrylic sheet like 1/8" on the bottom and top like a little sandwich patch maybe 2" square, that way its not so obvious and intrusive as using full 1/4".
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I wouldn't "Hack out" any more material.I would clean up the edges and get at least 1/4 radius in those "Hacked " corners to prevent future cracks.I think if you drill the end then solvent weld the crack you should be good to go. Adding a patch certainly won't hurt.
Also do you think the chemicals in silicone will affect the joints in the corner where those chips are? I am tempted to use it as a sealing precaution in those two corners. I know I cannot use any acrylic cement on the joints because it will dissolve them LOL.
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I'm not sure that is a good idea. Silicone and acrylic are not a very good long term solution. Maybe someone on this forum with extensive acrylic repair experience could weigh in on this.You may need to repost this as a separate issue.
Most important question! I finished the back panel with Novus 2 and although the results are a great improvement, I still have some opaqueness even thought i used separate terrycloth bonnets and used an entire ounce of each 8 ounce bottle on the back panel . Do you think its becasue I used a terry cloth bonnet with Novus 3 instead of the fleece bonnet or becasue I did not use enough polishing liquid using only 1 ounce of each 8 ounce bottles?
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An entire ounce you say.
I would guess the latter. Here's my take, If you use one oz. of #3 and ten minutes of labor you can expect to spend 3-5 times the labor and #2 to be ready for #1. It wouldn't surprise me to hear it take 4-8 ounces of #2 to finish one panel given what you started with. Remember , no one said this was going to be quick or easy. It took me at least 10 hours , 4oz. #3 and 16+ oz. #2 to clean up my 2x2x8 acrylic and it was nowhere near as bad as yours.
 
Thanks..I guess I better put more time and polish into the front panel but first Im going to hit that back panel with a fleece bonnet and #1 to see if it gets better. Im also going to have to buy another bonnet as the extra I purchased was way larger and too lose then the one that came with the polisher which fit tight. Strange becasue its made by Robi and labeled for 6"-8" polishers so I guess Im going to have to buy the one labeled 4"-6". The 1000 grit sand block really worked wonders getting off stubborn water line scale.

Hope to finish up today and get started on the cabinet restoration tomorrow, something I am good at LOL.
 
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