Ongoing Water Clarity Issue - looking for ideas

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sayersweb

Exodon
MFK Member
Jun 19, 2012
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Sugar Land, Texas
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Setup:
300 gallon glass Aquarium:
2 Fluval FX6s - top sponges replaced with floss. Purigen (1000 gallon worth), active carbon, ceramic rings in, other baskets
1 wet/dry sump filter - fed by overflow, pre-filter pad, ribbon media, Purigen, heaters
Fine black gravel (blasting sand), some rocks, wood, and plastic plants
No direct sunlight, lights are on a timer for 12 hours a day

Maintenance:
Weekly 3/4 water change, after algae magnet is used. Gravel vacuumed, wet/dry pre-filter cleaned if needed.
Water treated with Seachem Prime, 1/2 cup instant ocean
During water change, the wet/dry is kept running by having the return go into the overflow box. The FX6s run for most of the water change until the water level in the aquarium gets too low. They end up being off for about 20 minutes.

Water parameters:
PH: 8.0, Ammonia: 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5ppm after water change, 15ppm before water change
Tap water tests 0 for everything, I have a Culligan water filtration/softening system

Stock list:
18" Black Arowana, 4: 5" to 7" Red Hook Silver Dollars, 3: 5" to 6" Emperor Red Hooks, 4: 6" Threadfin Geos, 3: 4" to 5" Altifrons Geos, 4: 4" to 5" Red-Tail Botias, 2: 6: 1" Skunk Botias, 1: 8" Pleco

Feeding:
Once per day, all food eaten within a minute, all fish eat aggressively
Just changed to: Hikari food sticks for Arowana, Life Spectrum sinking pellets, freeze-dried Krill, small algae pellets
Was feeding: Hikari sinking and floating pellets, freeze-dried Krill, small algae pellets
I switched foods only a couple of days ago, hoping it will help with the clarity

Problem:
After water change the water is clear. Each day it grows a bit more cloudy (very light brownish tinge), by water change it is noticeable from across the room. It isn't awful, but noticeable. Ammonia and Nitrite always test 0, Nitrate slowly increases until next water change.

What I have tried:
Besides putting floss in the FX6s and Purigen, I've added bags of Algone to the sump.
I added two large Hikari sponge filters for several weeks, but they made no difference and have been removed.
I tried Seachem Clarity yesterday, and now, almost 24 hours later, it is much more cloudy than usual.

There is a 200 gallon aquarium sitting next to the 300, with the same water parameters and maintenance routine. The 200 always stays perfectly clear, never cloudy. It has one FX6 and a wet/dry sump. Same foods are fed and it is well stocked with fish.

Additional thoughts:
To me it does not appear to be a nitrifying bacterial bloom. It looks like fine organic matter that the filter cannot trap, almost as if the fish waste is not solid. The water does not smell, and there is no foaming like you would get from dissolved organic compounds. I do not know why the Seachem Clarity did not work, it actually made things worse.

Any suggestions/ideas would be greatly appreciated. I've tried to be as thorough as possible with the explanation.
 
It sounds like inert particulates in suspension. Perhaps the sand or even dust from the sand? Have you tried filter socks (50 micron on less) in your sump? Filter pads that I've seen are not great at capturing particles but low micron filter socks can do wonders for clarity.

Also, there's a chance it's algae, but I'd think you would have noticed more than what you mentioned. That would be something a UV filter could clear up easily.

Also, the human eye can see down to 40 microns, so if you see actual particles, they are that size or larger. But if you can't actually see the particles but only a "haze" then these are likely much smaller like 1-10 microns. (E.g., tobacco smoke is 0.1-4 microns in size but we can easily see the smoke.) In any event, I concur it does not sound like a bacterial bloom or a water quality issue.
 
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I was gonna say filter socks and UV. But is the driftwood still new and leaching tannins into the water still perhaps?
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions! I cannot see individual particles, it is more of a haze. The wood has been in there for over a year. I'm starting to think it may be the rocks that are in the aquarium. That is the only difference decor-wise between the 300 & 200. Saturday, when I do the water change I will pull them out and see what happens. I can't remember where I got them... but some of them have a rough surface.
 
It still very well be the wood too. It also depends on the amount of wood to gallon ratio of your two tanks. I've had driftwood in my tank (260G) and I know that the water still has a tint from the tannins after a few weeks. It may be your rock, but I wouldn't rule out the wood either.

To clarify, tannins don't actually create "particles", it may just the tint if you have good filtration.
 
Thank you, I will definitely keep that in mind. When I bought driftwood for my 55 gallon the tannins were really bad at first. Took months before it was no longer noticeable.

It still very well be the wood too. It also depends on the amount of wood to gallon ratio of your two tanks. I've had driftwood in my tank (260G) and I know that the water still has a tint from the tannins after a few weeks. It may be your rock, but I wouldn't rule out the wood either.

To clarify, tannins don't actually create "particles", it may just the tint if you have good filtration.
 
Flame away, but I think a 300 gallon tank needs to have a sump with submersible pumps in it...(and a resident rubber ducky if you REALLY want clear water).

I don't understand cans on big tanks like this.
 
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In my sump I took some eggcrate and cut it to the width of the inside of the sump, on one side only I put a bunch of polyfill then covered it up on that same side with trimmable filter material then zip stripped it all to the eggcrate. Then I wedged it before my output pumps. It catches all the really fine particles before they go back to the display tank. It works well and it might help you.
 
On my sump, I use 4 filter socks. Sock holders are built into the sump. 4 bags of Pond matrix just laying on the bottom. That's it.

OH! And a drip. 40 GPD drip, too.
 
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