oops watch those large water changes
- Thread starter fishnutham
- Start date
OK ..... We need to have at least 2 people that live where they use chlorimine in their water do this test.
1 - Get a clean container that will hold at least 30 gal.
2 - Fill the container with water around 78 deg.
3 - Treat the water with a decholrine/chlorimine chemical
4 - Stir the water so that you get the chemical to react with the water.
5 - Test the water with a test kit and look for chlorine/chlorime and amonia.
This will at least give us a place to start. I would do the test but they don't use chlorime in my local water.
1 - Get a clean container that will hold at least 30 gal.
2 - Fill the container with water around 78 deg.
3 - Treat the water with a decholrine/chlorimine chemical
4 - Stir the water so that you get the chemical to react with the water.
5 - Test the water with a test kit and look for chlorine/chlorime and amonia.
This will at least give us a place to start. I would do the test but they don't use chlorime in my local water.
Some aquarium trade water treatment products will break the chemical bond in chloramine causing a quick release of toxic ammonia.On a very large scale water change this release can kill your fish,usally by burning their respiratory systems
i don't think you are reading this when choramine is present ,the water treatment you use break down the CHLORAMINE turning it into toxic ammonia NOT CHLORINE ! the AMMONIA on a large water change 75% ect can cause illnesses with your fish or simply kill them
i don't think you are reading this when choramine is present ,the water treatment you use break down the CHLORAMINE turning it into toxic ammonia NOT CHLORINE ! the AMMONIA on a large water change 75% ect can cause illnesses with your fish or simply kill them
Popular products such as AquaSafe and Kent Ammonia Detox remove both chlorine and ammonia.fishnutham said:
Generally if you treat your water to get rid of the chlorine you will be fine. The problem with chlorine is it kills the bacteria in the filter media thus allowing ammonia to take over. If the water is treated for chlorine your filter will neutralize ammonia. Also do note that most books will state that 50% water change is the best way to fight ammonia spikes.
I find that doing between 15-20% water changes every 5-7 days, Malawi cichlid tanks, I do not have a problem. At each change I suction the sand quite well in the different areas. My tanks are over stocked to reduce the aggression mbuna's have. I used to use the additives but now use filter water. Water tested and it's PH is the same and no trace at all of ammonia. Compressed carbon and UV light. Produces fantastic drinking water. 
Vitaliy you are missing my point of course the host bacteria will take care of the ammonia spikes thats what a cycle is in a system what i'm saying is when you do a large water change you are in fact creating a ammonia spike which probably is the reason that so many people complain of mini cycles after a water change 5 of my tanks get a 10% water change weekly that have sensitive fish they are thriving my paramitors are perfect have not had a problem yet except for needing to boost the gh a little on the other hand i had been doing 75% water changes in my big tank with a 12" oscar and a 11" pleco because of the waste and had mini cycles ever week now i have 1200gph of filtration including a wet dry so i knocked it down to 30% weekly with no mini cycles now i can tell you this most of the fish keepers out there dont have enough filteration to handle the extra bio load that is presented with a large water change so in conclusion if you have a big tank normal filtration you will have toxic ammonia in your tank untill the filters catch up of course the people who keep monster tanks and sumps it dosnt matter but for the guys with the 25gals ect and that trickle filter hob will have spikes that are not needed
Also i wrote this thread to help some people have a better understanding of what is going on when they add water conditioners and so forth ,not to argue about how i've done it this way for years its worked for me christ with that attitude Henry ford would have never invented mass production and our tanks would probably cost so much to buy we probably would'nt even have one or even be having this disscussion
Also i wrote this thread to help some people have a better understanding of what is going on when they add water conditioners and so forth ,not to argue about how i've done it this way for years its worked for me christ with that attitude Henry ford would have never invented mass production and our tanks would probably cost so much to buy we probably would'nt even have one or even be having this disscussion
Scotty said:I find that doing between 15-20% water changes every 5-7 days, Malawi cichlid tanks, I do not have a problem. At each change I suction the sand quite well in the different areas. My tanks are over stocked to reduce the aggression mbuna's have. I used to use the additives but now use filter water. Water tested and it's PH is the same and no trace at all of ammonia. Compressed carbon and UV light. Produces fantastic drinking water.
I also enjoy the benifits of uv sterlization use it my main planted tank to ward off green water i'll tell you i would drink that water before tap water keep it up sounds like you have a nice system going
I do at least 50% water changes in all the tanks I service and have never had a problem.
Why not do the test I sugested ?
If you just want to argue thats fine with me but lets do some tests and then we will have some first hand information to back up the arguements.
Why not do the test I sugested ?
If you just want to argue thats fine with me but lets do some tests and then we will have some first hand information to back up the arguements.
