Oscars are meant to die.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Even though I am a believer in huge water changes, I'll cut back for a time to see if it makes a difference. The short-term stress of a big w/c may be playing a part, so I won't rule it out yet. I might resort to multiple small changes throughout the week.

I have three filters, not two, and I never kill their bacteria off. I just gently pat/squeeze them in old tank water during the w/c. And I only clean one of the three each week, in order.

Anybody think raising the temp a degree or two could help or hurt? Oscarfish.com, in some thread, suggests that 77ºF is a very optimal temp concerning longevity and demeanor/aggression control.

I've removed the hydroponic vine and spider baby in case they were using important minerals.

I can't imagine needing more vitamins than are already in these pellets. Massivore alone is loaded, as are the other foods I use. And I try to add a fresh can of food to the rotation every few months to prevent the loss of vitamins through expiration. After a year, I throw away foods. This round, instead of food, I'll add the liquid vitamins to the menu.

The hole is irritatingly stable and I can't really tell day-to-day whether it has grown or shrunk.
 
My Oscar is at 76 - 78... he still got HITH... as for aggression issues ect.. rofl.. I should video tape him some day. He's a tank banger. I don't think raising the temp will do any good, or bad tbh.

for me.. it was removing the carbon. and doing 25% WC's 2x a week. he's healed up quite nicely, but there is one spot where he might never heal 100%. And it can take a long time to heal, particularly the larger deeper pits. Garlic and liquid vitamins are mainly to help the healing process ime.

once bacteria/fungus/parasites are ruled out.

I also had a Purple tang in the past who developed bad HLLE.. same thing... removed carbon, pumped it full of vitamins 'n garlic and let him heal. Nice fish, ended back at my LFS when I got tired of doing Salt. They wouldn't believe me it was the same one I had come in monthes before looking for my suppliments ect for.
 
Charcoal is all removed, water changes at 50%. Condition apparently stabilized, but Oscar now acts hypnotized most of the day. Nitrates -10 ppm. PH 7.2.

My LFS guy says he's always cured/eliminated HITH with a three-day course of hexamita kill, then a vitamin block. I might try that, too, if these other efforts aren't enough.
 
my 2 O's are pritey healthy and active and i feed them pellet food and i mix it up and give them some silver sides and market shrip and blood worms and as a treat once a month they get live food they also eat cherry tomatoes to
 
knifegill;3679118; said:
Charcoal is all removed, water changes at 50%. Condition apparently stabilized, but Oscar now acts hypnotized most of the day. Nitrates -10 ppm. PH 7.2.

My LFS guy says he's always cured/eliminated HITH with a three-day course of hexamita kill, then a vitamin block. I might try that, too, if these other efforts aren't enough.
I found that liquid metronidazole in a syringe diluted and sprayed lightly over their face so they breathe it in is the best way because people always say to feed it to them, my oscar wasnt interested in food, so i passed it thru his gills manually!!!
 
Well ur 90% water changes may be the problem here
 
fishy12;3712713; said:
Well ur 90% water changes may be the problem here

why?


because it effects bio filtration?
FALSE.

beneficial bacteria is not free floating; it colonizes in and on surfaces, i.e. bio media, substrate etc etc.. it does not get sucked up and out when the water egresses the tank.

its attached and it ain't gonna let go! lol
 
Deaths Sting;3712737; said:
why?


because it effects bio filtration?
FALSE.

beneficial bacteria is not free floating; it colonizes in and on surfaces, i.e. bio media, substrate etc etc.. it does not get sucked up and out when the water egresses the tank.

its attached and it ain't gonna let go! lol
Ha!!! Now i know and knowings half the battle!!
 
My guess is that it really does have everything to do with your water changes. 90% is too much if done improperly. Your tap water will need to be aged and heated. I didn't read anywhere what you do to bring your tap water to a condition that will support fish, I appologize if I've missed that part.

You do not know exactly what is in your tap either. I would strongly reccomend that you cease the large changes, maybe jus tdo 25% at a time once overy 4 days or so.

Also stating that carbon leaches any toxins back into your water just perpetuates a nagging myth in this hobby. I hate it when people just regurgitate crap like that. Carbon does NOT leach naything back into your water. The pores become filled, and it simply stops removing. It then becomes colonized and acts just as any other bio media would. That being said...... it can initialy strip your water of important elements, and I do not advocate the use of it in most tanks.

Can you tell us more about your tank speciificaly? Water params, size, age, tankmates. Again, Im sorry if I have missed this info in the thread.
 
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