Overfiltering

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
parker21104;1476914; said:
Feeding is 8 large pieces of krill per feeding the uneaten food is pulled out 20 minutes after being dropped in.
canisters are cleand once a month. new media every other month
the sand is chemically inert.
My wallago attu is 26" my silver aro is 15" and my niger is 10"
and the bog wood pieces are not very large.

Test your tap water after it sits out over night. If your tap water is very soft, the pH when it comes out of the tap will be higher than the actual pH after it sits. That could be the problem. See how difficult it is to accurately diagnose without ALL the info?

P.S. Sweet fish, you should post pics somewhere.
P.P.S. We should stop derailing this thread.
 
parker21104;1476914; said:
and out of my three tanks my 240 is the only tank where the ph will drop to about 6.8 to 7.0 when tested before every water change when I test the kh and the ph. my 100 gallon doesnt do this either does my 80 gallon. I add the buffer to bring up the kh which in turn brings up my ph .2 or so.

New info, I see. PM me if you would like to chase this further, or start a new thread.
Back to the OP, give us more info if you would like an accurate answer.
 
Merbeast;1476859; said:
:nilly: Yes, or no. Maybe. Tank size does matter, but not nearly as much as the bio-load. You need to tell us what kind of fish, their size and how many you have before we can begin to answer that question. Other questions that have a bearing are:
1) what kind of substrate, if any, do you have?
2) Do you have lots of decorations?
3) how many, if any, live plants do you have?
4) how tolerant are you to the sight of poop?
5) how often do you feed?
6) what kind of filter media do you have in the fluval 403?
7) do you own a test kit? What are your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels?
8) is the tank cycled?

Be careful of the flippant, fast answers. "Gee, I filter 15billion gallons per hour on my 10 gallon tank, you can never have enough" means jack. Mechanical filtration will NOT cause your pH to drop. Having too many fish in a small body of water WILL cause your pH to drop if your water is not buffered enough (the waste breaking down will drop the pH).
Sorry for not responding so soon, forgot about this thread for a while.
I have a clown loach(had two) a endli, a oscar, and a small pike cichlid. They arent that big will be moved two a 135 eventually. Arowana might join them when its big enough.
1. pool filter sand about 2 inches
2 2 pieces of bogwood, one large the other medium.
3.Two amozon swords 3 vallentias 1 Strigata getting a anubias and another sword.
4. I dont care, also it gets eaten by the feeder ghost shrimp that doesnt get eaton
5. Once a day
6. 1 ceramic nodules, 2 filter sponge, 3 carbon and zeolite( dont get me on that it weres out quick i dont care if it can get chemical agents out fine by me) 4 more filter sponge
7.Yes the whole shebang
8.Cycled for three weeks put in plants after temp was high enough, also bog wood was from cycled tank, also used the liquid bacteria.
Super oxygenated by the spary bar.
 
The fluval will provide adiquate filtration for your 50g tank. It would not be considered overfiltration by most. As Merbeast pointed out there are many determining factors to your selection of filtration, not just tank size. It is best though to have redundant filtration on your tank, should your filter every fail you will have another to keep your tank from completely crashing.
 
Though I know the 403 is rated to do a 55, I have never been pleased with the flow from it. For this reason, I run a 404 on each of my 2-54 corners. On the 75, I run 2-
404s (this is due to the amount of waste from plecos chewing wood).
Depending on what/how many you are planning on placing in your tank, as well as where the uplift tube is placed, I think you will be fine so long as you stay on top of water changes and keep the fluval clean.
 
the water is at 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites and 5ppm nitates.
 
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