Overflow question....

[Lonewolfblue]

I think it depends on where you're talking about stuffing it. There's a guy on here that put filter socks where the overflow piping flows into the first part of his sump box. To me, that seems like the best place because if you actually put it in the overflow box, it's gonna just be the edges of whatever media you use that does any filtering because of how the water runs down the wall of the overflow box.

That could present a problem if the holes were in the bottom of the tank, but if I had the overflow boxes in the back corners of the tank, the holes would be in the side of the overflow box as well. And if filled with floss, it should do well in catching the bigger stuff, as the water needs to pass through the floss to get to the holes. If the holes are in the bottom of the tank, then I can see the water flowing down the walls to the holes in the bottom, bypassing the floss.

Actually, I found one I like. Have either floss or sponges in the overflow, where they can be removed and cleaned easily.

 

[CHOMPERS]

...I currently have 2 water pumps, still new in the box. External pumps to be mounted under the stand. One is 1000GPH and the other is 720GPH I think. Would this be too much flow? ...

That will be plenty flow. Since you live in Washington, it would be wise to go with internal sump pumps. The reasoning is the internal pumps are cooled by the tank water. Translation: you get free heating from your pumps. External pumps are air cooled and the heat is wasted and you have to heat the tank entirely with heaters.

With internal pumps, you will still need to use a heater but it will not have to run near as much. Being in Florida, I do not use heaters in my tanks with sumps, even in the winter.

 

[prophets]

Reason for the two holes insided the overflow box is to hide the piping. I'm not sure on how glasscages does it, but with the all-glass megaflow tanks, its pretty much the same setup. 2 holes, 1" and 3/4"...flow (1") return (3/4"). AGA offers a separate kit to install inside the overflow box, where the flow (input) uses a durso type of flow. It is adustable to set the height and amount of water to be held inside the overflow box. Its quiet as heck...no gurgling sound at all.

The design of the box is neat idea...no pipes shown so it makes the appearance more appealing. I think glasscages offer a overflow box cover, acrylic and comes in different colors.

 

[Lonewolfblue]

That will be plenty flow. Since you live in Washington, it would be wise to go with internal sump pumps. The reasoning is the internal pumps are cooled by the tank water. Translation: you get free heating from your pumps. External pumps are air cooled and the heat is wasted and you have to heat the tank entirely with heaters.

With internal pumps, you will still need to use a heater but it will not have to run near as much. Being in Florida, I do not use heaters in my tanks with sumps, even in the winter.

As for temp, heating isn't a major problem. It's cooling the tank, lol. We're headed back to triple digits again by Thursday it looks like. I've been running my AC here all day, and my 55G still get's to 86 degrees because the AC is on the other end of the house. Plus I've already got the pumps anyways.

 

[Lonewolfblue]

Reason for the two holes insided the overflow box is to hide the piping. I'm not sure on how glasscages does it, but with the all-glass megaflow tanks, its pretty much the same setup. 2 holes, 1" and 3/4"...flow (1") return (3/4"). AGA offers a separate kit to install inside the overflow box, where the flow (input) uses a durso type of flow. It is adustable to set the height and amount of water to be held inside the overflow box. Its quiet as heck...no gurgling sound at all.

The design of the box is neat idea...no pipes shown so it makes the appearance more appealing. I think glasscages offer a overflow box cover, acrylic and comes in different colors.

I got this from my email from glasscages....

I would suggest you have us drill for our regular size holes 1" supply and 1 1/2" return. You can always reduce down to 5/8" , but you can't go larger at a later time, when you realize the holes you've suggested are too small.

 

[Lonewolfblue]

Another question, lol. When setting up the sump, do I need to do anything to ensure that I don't get a flood if the power goes out? Also, I wouldn't want to lose suction either for the pump. Any remedies for that? I know the overflow wouldn't have any problems, it's just on the end with the pump.

Another thing I thought about, I could install the pumps below the water level of the sump. That way, even if it did lose suction, there would still be water in the line down at the pump. Would that work?

 

[prophets]

1/2" return? That's pretty small to give a good turnover in your tank since you have 1" overflow...I can't remember where I seen it...but it was calculated to give about 600 gph on a 1" overflow.

Are you placing your w/d directly under the tank? If you are its pretty straightforward to set up. Have the overflows go into your w/d...if you have the option of installing ball valves to regulate the overflow if you so desire. The return line is straightforward also...doesn't matter wheter its in the sump or outside of the sump. I would put a ball valve on the return line(s) depending on how many returns..if you have 2...one ball valve for each return, now is the fun part...to prevent the tank water from being drawn back into the return line, you can: a) use a check valve..this will reduce your rate of water return slightly or b) where the return line comes into the top of the overflow box...if you are using the modular piping, its probably connected to your pvc pipe via an elbow. Drill a small hole directly under the inside of the elbow, this will break the suction when the water level falls below that little hole.

That's the way I have mine setup instead of using a check valve, I'd hate to reduce the return flow plus another thing inline that can go awry.

 

[Lonewolfblue]

1/2" return? That's pretty small to give a good turnover in your tank since you have 1" overflow...I can't remember where I seen it...but it was calculated to give about 600 gph on a 1" overflow.

Are you placing your w/d directly under the tank? If you are its pretty straightforward to set up. Have the overflows go into your w/d...if you have the option of installing ball valves to regulate the overflow if you so desire. The return line is straightforward also...doesn't matter wheter its in the sump or outside of the sump. I would put a ball valve on the return line(s) depending on how many returns..if you have 2...one ball valve for each return, now is the fun part...to prevent the tank water from being drawn back into the return line, you can: a) use a check valve..this will reduce your rate of water return slightly or b) where the return line comes into the top of the overflow box...if you are using the modular piping, its probably connected to your pvc pipe via an elbow. Drill a small hole directly under the inside of the elbow, this will break the suction when the water level falls below that little hole.

That's the way I have mine setup instead of using a check valve, I'd hate to reduce the return flow plus another thing inline that can go awry.

No, it's a 1 1/2" return. And there's 2 of each, 2 intake holes and 2 return holes. And I may have a 3rd set drilled to hook up my canister filter. That's why the guy stated 5/8", I was asking about an intake and output for the XP4, whether I use 1 or 2 of them.

But then you run into another problem, the external pumps. If the seal breaks, then there's no water in the pipe for when the pumps turn back on. That would be a major problem. As stated above, I'm thinking of placing the pumps below the sumps waterline. Will that keep me from having that problem? I'm assuming that if they are below the waterline, then the pipes and pumps should maintain water, correct?

And yes, the sump will be directly under the tank.

 

[Lonewolfblue]

I'm thinking of placing the pumps below the sumps waterline. Will that keep me from having that problem? I'm assuming that if they are below the waterline, then the pipes and pumps below the waterline should maintain water, correct?

 

[Volenti]

I'm thinking of placing the pumps below the sumps waterline. Will that keep me from having that problem? I'm assuming that if they are below the waterline, then the pipes and pumps below the waterline should maintain water, correct?

Yea the external pumps need to be placed below the waterline of the sump, so they will prime and re-start properly.