Overflow Rating Question

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I'd definitely listen to Jc1119 and Jcardona on this and do a herbie style full syphon drain. Actually click on the link in Jc1119's signature and see how he plumbed his and do yours that way. One thing you can keep in mind as well is that you don't have to have all the flow through the sump. You can get a couple koralia circulation pumps to help circulation in the tank.
 
Let's see some pics of your herbie setup Aaronb. Maybe that will help him understand how it works.

Also, what do you mean when you say that you don't have to have all of the flow going through the sump? If you put a bypass valve on the return line, the extra flow will go right back to the sump. Is that what you meant?
 
Also, what do you mean when you say that you don't have to have all of the flow going through the sump? If you put a bypass valve on the return line, the extra flow will go right back to the sump. Is that what you meant?

I think he meant about helping in terms of flow/turnover, since the OP wanted a high turnover rate.
 
If the rating is only 700GPH per overflow, it most likely means you have a ~1.5" hole that will accomodate a .75" (standard) bulkhead fitting. The beefier schedule 80 bulkhead fitting will probably not fit in a 1.5" hole (at least not according to the hole size requirements at bulkreefsupply.com which state 1.61" is needed).

Are both of the holes in each of the overflows 1.5"?

As others have mentioned, if you run full siphon you will get more flow and if you run all holes in your overflow to your sump and run returns up behind the tank you should be able to get close to your desired 10 times turnover. I personally think 10 times is a bit excessive, but that's just my opinion. I think 5 to 7 is plenty.

Running 5-7 times versus 10 times turnover will mean you can use a smaller pump = less noise and lower cost (purchase cost and operating cost).
 
Aquatic Eco has a chart showing sizes for the standard economy bulkheads. If the hole is exactly 1.5", you can run 1" bulkheads, if you order these:

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The chart says a 1 3/4" hole is require for a 1" bulkhead. Is that a misprint jose?

Also, my schedule 80, .75" ID bulkheads do fit a 1.5" hole perfectly. If you intend to use these bulkheads for any length of time, I would highly recommend going with sch 80 bulkheads. A failure will drain your sump into your stand/floor, and potentially ruin your pump(s). I have been there and done that.
 
Good luck! Ask some questions and we'll be more than happy to offer our opinions. We all have our own ways of doing things, and just because our ways differ doesnt mean anyone is wrong.
 
The chart says a 1 3/4" hole is require for a 1" bulkhead. Is that a misprint jose?

No, you read it right. What I said above was wrong. I was looking at the size under the "L" column. 1" bulkhead needs 1.75" hole. With a 1.5" hole biggest you could run is a 3/4" bulkhead. I find it odd though, that a tank is drilled for such small bulkheads. Even my little 57g Oceanic tank was drilled for 1" bulkheads.
 
I think different bulkhead manufacturers must have different fitments.. My standard 1" bulkhead fit into a 1.5" hole with a little room to spare. Crazy....

I try to tell people, there are a lot of variables when building a sump. That's why I'm hesitant to post plans for my rotating spray bar setup... If someone uses a different sized part, they could have issues and blame it on my plans... It took some tuning to get it right, and not everyone is able or willing to put that kinda work in.
 
I meant you could have a pump for the sump that turns the water over 7 times and then just have a circulation pump or two in the tank to make up the other 3 times. When people suggest 10 times turnover they don't necessarily mean you have to pump the entire volume of the tank through the sump.
 
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