Overhead Sump Filter Media Setup for 75 Gallons

[fishkeepercarlo]

Is this 75g tank the one from your other thread which houses a datnoid, an arowana, 2 bichirs and 2 plecos? In your other thread (in the disease section guys under "datnoid and arowana eye symptoms"), you have concerns regarding cloudy eyes and you think your datnoid may be blind because it doesn't seem to know where the food is, it's struggling feeding.

We know you're new to the hobby so you have limited experience and knowledge. What we don't know is how long your tank has been set up, whether it's been cycled properly, i'm guessing not given your nitrite reading. Your issues in your other thread could be attributed to new tank syndrome? The BB colonies in your new overhead filter are simply not up to speed to process the waste.

There's too many gaps here for me to make complete sense regarding this thread and your other thread.

Yes, that was my previous post. I did not know that there are certain criteria that need to be looked at. I got my 75 gallons last 1/31 and have an AQ1800F setup to it with Winner Aorus Pump for oxygen. So far, it was good and I have not to know my water parameters around that time. I have my bichir, datnoid, and 2 plecos around that time. After I got paid on the 2/5, I went to a pet shop-hopping looking for a silver Arowana but I encounter my HBRTG which I bought and been planning to have naturally tanned on my previous inquiry on Arowana section. Then, I watch Youtube videos and most of them have an overhead sump setup that pushed me to purchase an overhead sump. I also read some articles on how to check water parameters that is why I also bought my API water-testing master kit just to make sure that my parameters which I did yesterday with my image below:



My PH is ranging at 8.4-8.8. Using high range.
Ammonia is at 0 ppm.
Nitrite is at 0.5 ppm - 1.0 ppm.
Nitrate is at 20 ppm.

Hope this does help and my apologies if I keep asking questions but hope this does help with the gap you have mentioned.

Bioballs could work well as an alternative. Minimizing the weight in an overhead sump is always a good idea. I dont think k1 is very heavy though so you're probably good with that.

I have it ordered. Can't wait to receive them. Thank you for all of your suggestions.

 

[duanes]

I agree with exolucius, if your tank was just set up only a month ago, it is not completely cycled, because it usually takes 6 weeks to 2 months to do that (to build up enough of a bacterial population to consume toxic ammonia and nitrite).
And one usually does not add sensitive fish until any tank is totally cycled.
The reason your fish became sick, or infected, is probably due to the stress of excess toxic compounds, ammonia and nitrite produced when a tank is "not" fully cycled and fish are added before cycling is complete.
Also be aware, certain treatments also compromise the good bacteria you are trying to generate, so by adding them, you stymie and stall the cycle.
By the way, an Arowana, a Dat, 2 Bichirs and 2 plecos, was way too many fish to add to an unicycled tank, and it is amazing they are not all dead.

 

[fishkeepercarlo]

I agree with exolucius, if your tank was just set up only a month ago, it is not completely cycled, because it usually takes 6 weeks to 2 months to do that (to build up enough of a bacterial population to consume toxic ammonia and nitrite).
And one usually does not add sensitive fish until any tank is totally cycled.
The reason your fish became sick, or infected, is probably due to the stress of excess toxic compounds, ammonia and nitrite produced when a tank is "not" fully cycled and fish are added before cycling is complete.
Also be aware, certain treatments also compromise the good bacteria you are trying to generate, so by adding them, you stymie and stall the cycle.
By the way, an Arowana, a Dat, 2 Bichirs and 2 plecos, was way too many fish to add to an unicycled tank, and it is amazing they are not all dead.

Thank you for this heads up. Any idea on how I can keep my fishes safe on this condition? In addition, I ran another water test again and so far, my nitrate levels went low and nitrite levels is still the same. This makes me more nervous and cautious for taking care of these. Should I still continue doing daily water changes or every other day?

 

[Backfromthedead]

Thank you for this heads up. Any idea on how I can keep my fishes safe on this condition? In addition, I ran another water test again and so far, my nitrate levels went low and nitrite levels is still the same. This makes me more nervous and cautious for taking care of these. Should I still continue doing daily water changes or every other day?

I know you didn't ask me, but if I were you I would consider rehoming some of the fish immediately, definitely the larger growing fish like the arowana. Imo this will help a lot in controlling and stabilizing your water quality.

As long as you're showing nitrite I would continue with daily water changes. Make sure you are conditioning the new water properly every time.

 

[duanes]

I agree with backfromthedead, daily water changes are about all you can do (maybe even twice per day).
The water changes will dilute the toxic nitrite.
And don't mess around changing stuff in the filter.
The filter is where much of the good bacteria reside, so if you take out some media, and add new, you are removing part of the beneficial bacterial colony, that could stall the cycle even more.

 

[fishkeepercarlo]

I know you didn't ask me, but if I were you I would consider rehoming some of the fish immediately, definitely the larger growing fish like the arowana. Imo this will help a lot in controlling and stabilizing your water quality.

As long as you're showing nitrite I would continue with daily water changes. Make sure you are conditioning the new water properly every time.

No worries. I am just a fish keeping newbie who's asking for help. ATM, really nervous because I want my HBRTG to simply die or something go wrong with it. I have my contact make me another tank for my Arowana and may take a couple of days until next week.

I agree with backfromthedead, daily water changes are about all you can do (maybe even twice per day).
The water changes will dilute the toxic nitrite.
And don't mess around changing stuff in the filter.
The filter is where much of the good bacteria reside, so if you take out some media, and add new, you are removing part of the beneficial bacterial colony, that could stall the cycle even more.

I will definitely do these steps. I might will not change anything ATM and will just keep water changing. In addition, can I still feed my fish even though the water is cycling?

My apologies for these questions. As I am really nervous and just want to make sure that my fishes are safe and sound.

 

[esoxlucius]

I agree with duanes and Backfromthedead .

Also, it's hard to say whether your current parameters are wholly to blame for your fishes "eye problems" mentioned in your other post, but be assured that your off whack parameters certainly won't help any healing process. They're more likely to hinder the process, and could even cause other issues too.

If you use seachem prime as your conditioner you can overdose it to help temporarily with the nitrite issue. You can also add salt in severe cases. But BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING you need to read up on "nitrite poisoning" so you have a handle on what nitrite does to your fish. It really is nasty stuff, and one of the reasons hobbyists must only add fish to a fully cycled aquarium. Also, I suggest you rseearch "the nitrogen cycle". You need to have this vital aspect of the hobby totally nailed down.

And if you must feed your fish whilst all this is going on, you need to be feeding the bare minimum. Me personally? I wouldn't feed at all, you'll be amazed how long fish can go without food.

Long term, if you come out of this unscathed? You need a much bigger tank for that stock, or simply thin them out now.