I was thinking floss or a screen that traps detritus, but sounds like you have it well thought out with venting and carbon into the sump.
Hadn't heard uv quenches ozone.
Hadn't heard uv quenches ozone.
ozone freshwater help!
- Thread starter candle1212
- Start date
Got a few more results here.
couldn't get the avast mr16 carbone reactor there was a 3-4 week wait so I modded my other previous ozone reactor and it takes the same amount of carbon as the mr16 and modded the ct 300 for air separation which works really well also.
With the netjet 3000 on full I was getting a really low mv so I back it off to the minimum which is 1250 odd and was getting 400 ish with air at 2scfh .
I could get 750 but had to turn the air up to 4-5 scfh but that means using up drying beads quicker and less dwell time for ozone in carbon and more air removal not ideal really for my living room.
So I added a tap before the ozone reactor to slow things down and just to note I have a one way 20mm none return valve to keep pressure in reacter, so when u shut it off it does not fill your cabinet up with ozoned air and is at full pressure for restart.
So in the end measured with a jug my backed off flow rate is 3 litres per minute at 2 and a half scfh was 665odd which I was happy with I let phrobes all settle back in and see what happens.
The most important thing for me was safe air removal becuse it can make u sick as a dog if you dont get it right and the carbon for the fish .
avast recommend a 2750 for the pump I think which is there set up is for salt water,freshwater seams to need a lot slower flow in my testing and ive never had a salt water system so I can not give any comparison, hope this helps someone else to set up freshwater ozone as I dont think you can ignore the safety side of it but at the end of my first play my water looked the best ive ever seen it.
Key things get a nice sealing ozone reactor.
Nice powerful air pump , I have minstrel 2000 bit over kill may be but a good needle valve was needed to ajust things easy.
Adapt somthing for safe air removal, and right amount of carbon.
One of the hardest things ive set up so far to get to run nice on my tank lack information was half of the problem and space was the other and lot of pipes not helping,and my missis hates the tank more than ever now lol ........
couldn't get the avast mr16 carbone reactor there was a 3-4 week wait so I modded my other previous ozone reactor and it takes the same amount of carbon as the mr16 and modded the ct 300 for air separation which works really well also.
With the netjet 3000 on full I was getting a really low mv so I back it off to the minimum which is 1250 odd and was getting 400 ish with air at 2scfh .
I could get 750 but had to turn the air up to 4-5 scfh but that means using up drying beads quicker and less dwell time for ozone in carbon and more air removal not ideal really for my living room.
So I added a tap before the ozone reactor to slow things down and just to note I have a one way 20mm none return valve to keep pressure in reacter, so when u shut it off it does not fill your cabinet up with ozoned air and is at full pressure for restart.
So in the end measured with a jug my backed off flow rate is 3 litres per minute at 2 and a half scfh was 665odd which I was happy with I let phrobes all settle back in and see what happens.
The most important thing for me was safe air removal becuse it can make u sick as a dog if you dont get it right and the carbon for the fish .
avast recommend a 2750 for the pump I think which is there set up is for salt water,freshwater seams to need a lot slower flow in my testing and ive never had a salt water system so I can not give any comparison, hope this helps someone else to set up freshwater ozone as I dont think you can ignore the safety side of it but at the end of my first play my water looked the best ive ever seen it.
Key things get a nice sealing ozone reactor.
Nice powerful air pump , I have minstrel 2000 bit over kill may be but a good needle valve was needed to ajust things easy.
Adapt somthing for safe air removal, and right amount of carbon.
One of the hardest things ive set up so far to get to run nice on my tank lack information was half of the problem and space was the other and lot of pipes not helping,and my missis hates the tank more than ever now lol ........
A few more results here, im now getting 800 odd out of the exit of the carbon reactor,so ive now opened the tap on the inlet to the ozone reactor for more water flow which now gives me 750-775 odd.
if I ajust the pump open much more the orp just drops right off,these readings are consistent now using the beads up till they all change color then the orp starts to drop off.
it has taken 2-3 days on flat out to start to lift the orp up , water very clear now, when I first turn on the unit the orp still drops away then when it picks up 10 or so mv I switch off and it carrys on going 10mv ish after switched off , so being carfull really, small steps.
I wonder does that mean everyhing going though the reactor is getting 750 worth of ozone is getting fully sterilised ?.
even tho the tank is only 330 odd.
im injecting 500mg of ozone , two tmc generators linked
if I ajust the pump open much more the orp just drops right off,these readings are consistent now using the beads up till they all change color then the orp starts to drop off.
it has taken 2-3 days on flat out to start to lift the orp up , water very clear now, when I first turn on the unit the orp still drops away then when it picks up 10 or so mv I switch off and it carrys on going 10mv ish after switched off , so being carfull really, small steps.
I wonder does that mean everyhing going though the reactor is getting 750 worth of ozone is getting fully sterilised ?.
even tho the tank is only 330 odd.
im injecting 500mg of ozone , two tmc generators linked
Just a little up date for you,
its settled in alot more now I find that as my orp goes up so does the mv on the reactor exit , I try not to let this stay to high for to long as this affect s the orp and it starts to drop away unless I lower the dose being added , I find for best results if I do a large feed , run 500mg of ozone and set one of the one of the tmc units to turn off after a few hours and only run one set at 250.
my orp will hit 340 happily and shut off unit and then hit 350 ish , I have two bio nitrate rectors also which they also help pull the orp up also.
So it seams to likes a quick high blast on initial feeding which get the numbers heading up nice then ease off to get stablize out a bit,
I can hit 350 strait off but I have to a just the amount of ozone down in increments which was ok for testing, and to low dose and the orp dose not go up all.
the aquatronica only does 10vm at a time ajustment so I set it a bit lower to save messing about now,
with time I think the orp will creep up more, but im happy with the results as they are and the water is so much clearer and I think the fish are healthier.
its settled in alot more now I find that as my orp goes up so does the mv on the reactor exit , I try not to let this stay to high for to long as this affect s the orp and it starts to drop away unless I lower the dose being added , I find for best results if I do a large feed , run 500mg of ozone and set one of the one of the tmc units to turn off after a few hours and only run one set at 250.
my orp will hit 340 happily and shut off unit and then hit 350 ish , I have two bio nitrate rectors also which they also help pull the orp up also.
So it seams to likes a quick high blast on initial feeding which get the numbers heading up nice then ease off to get stablize out a bit,
I can hit 350 strait off but I have to a just the amount of ozone down in increments which was ok for testing, and to low dose and the orp dose not go up all.
the aquatronica only does 10vm at a time ajustment so I set it a bit lower to save messing about now,
with time I think the orp will creep up more, but im happy with the results as they are and the water is so much clearer and I think the fish are healthier.
