I will confess that I have done no research as to what ozone does in a home aquarium. Is it a worth while investment and what does it help in my system? I saw a used generator for sale with out the bulb for 30.00 and was wondering what else I will need to make it work if I were to decide to get it.
Ozone
- Thread starter Deano1956
- Start date
Depends on the system. And my first question is what bulb?
Ozone is a means of sterilization, but it also will keep your water crystal clear by 'burning' off particulate that would normally be in the water column.
What you are doing is increasing the ORP (oxidation reduction potential). It's the natural ability of the body of water to break down organics (by oxidization). It's like rust on metal, oxygen breaking things down. ORP is a reading you can get in any water. By injecting ozone (in gas form) you'll increase that number, meaning the body of water will be able to clear more biological waste. Run 300mV or so and you'll have a hard time seeing the water it will be so clear.
The down side is anything above 450mV, and you're flirting with killing things over a period of time. At 600mV, you'll wipe the water clear of any living thing. You're fish (or whatever you have in the water) will actually dissolve. I use 600mV or more to sterilize incoming water we pull in from the ocean, then let the number drop naturally over night to below 400mV before using it in our ray touch pool. That way I know we've wiped out any parasites or unwanted things coming in.
Ozone is a means of sterilization, but it also will keep your water crystal clear by 'burning' off particulate that would normally be in the water column.
What you are doing is increasing the ORP (oxidation reduction potential). It's the natural ability of the body of water to break down organics (by oxidization). It's like rust on metal, oxygen breaking things down. ORP is a reading you can get in any water. By injecting ozone (in gas form) you'll increase that number, meaning the body of water will be able to clear more biological waste. Run 300mV or so and you'll have a hard time seeing the water it will be so clear.
The down side is anything above 450mV, and you're flirting with killing things over a period of time. At 600mV, you'll wipe the water clear of any living thing. You're fish (or whatever you have in the water) will actually dissolve. I use 600mV or more to sterilize incoming water we pull in from the ocean, then let the number drop naturally over night to below 400mV before using it in our ray touch pool. That way I know we've wiped out any parasites or unwanted things coming in.
just my input which isn't much haha, but I am very happy with my ozone setup, haven't had any issues since the day i turned it on back in august. My water is usually very clear unless my sharks dig in the sand. and also its a piece of cake to run with the orp controller attached.
Interesting. I'm editing my first post.... I thought it was UV since Emperor does mainly UV, but it's not, wrong inlet/outlet for water. That is set up for air.
I wonder if that isn't just the dryer part of the ozone unit. I'm gonna look into it and see what we can find for you.
I wonder if that isn't just the dryer part of the ozone unit. I'm gonna look into it and see what we can find for you.
ok thanks Zoo. He's askin 30.00 for it but there is much more needed I'm sure.Zoodiver;4677482; said:
I've looked all over on EA website and dont see any ozone componet looking like that and dont see a UV like that either, it must be an older UV, if it was big enough for me I would buy it.