Panda uaru parasites
- Thread starter Beetlebug515
- Start date
agreed with all above, metro. Epsom salts too in moderation I think would be fine even though they are sensitive fish.
Epsom salt is pretty harmless. At 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons it's an effective laxative to help them pass any blockages, including dead tapeworms if there are lots of them from the Prazi. It's a good way of helping to flush them out.
You may also run Kanamycin at the same time as the metro because when a fish has had a bad infestation of hex, they are open to secondary internal bacterial infection once the hex is gone. Usually if I treat, I run metro and kanamycin concurrently.
You may also run Kanamycin at the same time as the metro because when a fish has had a bad infestation of hex, they are open to secondary internal bacterial infection once the hex is gone. Usually if I treat, I run metro and kanamycin concurrently.
Sick started treatment with metro and kanamycin a couple days ago. Treatment failure. Sick panda isn't going to last the day. I'm done with these fish. The last one is going back to the fish store as soon as sick one passes.
I have wanted but avoided this species for years.
They come from tea dark water (anti bacterial in itself) devoid of most minerals, and a pH down to 4.
This gives them a very specialized immune system, unable to fight off even innocuous bacteria.
So enless your tank is as dark as pekoe tea, and as tart as lemon juice, what you are experiencing is par.
They come from tea dark water (anti bacterial in itself) devoid of most minerals, and a pH down to 4.
This gives them a very specialized immune system, unable to fight off even innocuous bacteria.
So enless your tank is as dark as pekoe tea, and as tart as lemon juice, what you are experiencing is par.
Sorry to hear that. As Duanes above said, some fish are just hard to keep.
Additionally, Metro has antibiotic properties as well as antiparasitic. Kanamycin is obviously antibiotic. If you dosed those two together, it doesn't go down well on fish, especially already weakened fish that have problems. Both meds will hit the digestive tract as well, internal organs and specifically both are harsh on the liver...not a good combo at the same time or dosing close apart...
Broad de-worming treatment is Flubendazole. It is effective against a range of tape worms, lots of types of round worms and certain parasites such as hexamita. It is very easy on fish including fry, kills inverts though.
Fish pooping white after prazi is a certain sign of them passing worms, probably heavily infested. They just need good food, and pristine water after that.
Additionally, Metro has antibiotic properties as well as antiparasitic. Kanamycin is obviously antibiotic. If you dosed those two together, it doesn't go down well on fish, especially already weakened fish that have problems. Both meds will hit the digestive tract as well, internal organs and specifically both are harsh on the liver...not a good combo at the same time or dosing close apart...
Broad de-worming treatment is Flubendazole. It is effective against a range of tape worms, lots of types of round worms and certain parasites such as hexamita. It is very easy on fish including fry, kills inverts though.
Fish pooping white after prazi is a certain sign of them passing worms, probably heavily infested. They just need good food, and pristine water after that.
This is not correct based on the information I got once. Recommended by a fish vet when I had a fear for flukes once was praziquantel for 3 weeks(you dose once at the start) and not doing water changes in that period of time as you can't accidentally decrease the dosage. Prazi is very stable in water. It should not be mixed with other meds too and one should not dose the tank with anything else afterwards for a while, again advised by a vet.
^ This was not a treatment for flukes, though. In this instance it was being used for tapeworm. That is not a multi-day treatment, hence my post.
With a tds in the 40's and a ph that was usually below 5, I still don't see what I did wrong.
They haven't eaten well for me since day 1. Never got them on pellets, they snubbed romaine unless I starved them. Usually they would go 2 weeks without eating before they would touch romaine. Just about the same with any kind of flake or frozen food except bloodworms. The only thing i could ever get them to reliably eat was plant trimmings from my planted tanks. I can only grow blyxa and wisteria so fast though. Still have the one. I'm done being angry about it, and don't really know what to do with the fish.
I honestly think they may have been weak/compromised from the beginning. Both species of Uaru, wild and domestic, have voracious appetites. My wilds were attacking anything I threw in the tank the second day I had them, even while they were still beat up and missing fins from shipping. They eat pellets, dried blackworms, three types of flakes (spirulina, earthworm, and beefheart), and even try eating the silk plants and sponge filters in the tank. I'm thinking maybe they had a low level internal parasite infection when you got them, and even though the acidic water probably helped, there was always an underlying issue. It would explain the suppressed appetite and finickiness of them.
