pH unstable?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Tank is 220 gallons + 55 gallon sump.
I have a 210 with an in-progress 75 gallon sump. I dose chemicals after every 20 gallons, and I think you should dose the same, unless you do smaller wc's, then add every 10 gallons. I only change a minimum of %40, so I dose every 20 gallons.
 
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I have a 210 with an in-progress 75 gallon sump. I dose chemicals after every 20 gallons, and I think you should dose the same, unless you do smaller wc's, then add every 10 gallons. I only change a minimum of %40, so I dose every 20 gallons.
Whats your method for estimating 20 gallons at a time? Just a rough estimation or?
 
With a large water change only once per week, its no wonder the pH fluctuates. Though the buffering capacity and pH may be high right after a water change, the normal metabolism by-products are lowering those components hourly, and by waiting an entire week its no wonder the pH is drastically lower. For stability much more frequent water changes are needed. And the chemicals added to water change water are only Bandaids compared to what real water changes do. And those high priced pH altering chemicals, are really not chemically different or any safer than baking soda, which is a fraction of the cost.
You can also help to buffer tank water by using a substrate such as aragonite which neutralizes acids (albeit more slowly), it can also be added into sumps, or used as a media in fluidized bed filters (AKA reactors).
I had a 4ft tall by 8" diameter fluidized reactor that used 4-5 lbs of aragonite, and worked well, it did however turn water slightly milky color when adding new aragonite, as the older sand dissolved in the neutralization process.

 
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