ph

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
tfaceon;745474; said:
so can i just add some espom salts and baking soda to my tank right now with the fish in it i'm going to do a 50% water change in 10 mins what should i do right now


Wait until your water is OUT, then start adding the substances graudually as you are topping up. And remember it is unwise to increase by more than two tenths within a 24 hour period to avoid the possibility of pH shock, e.g. if you were at 7.0 and your target is 7.4, do it over 48 hours.
 
Has anyone noticed the PH on your tanks can change over time without doing anything?
 
Mentzer;745671; said:
Why after water changes?As the toxicity of nitrogen cycle components is greater under certain circumstances, one of those being a higher pH....
Overall stability of water shall be greater if both subances are used. Baking Soda only? No.... It shall only increase Carbonate (TEMPORARY) hardness, and is impaired by denitrification, hence the requirement for BOTH compounds.

Well I think you be better adding the substances to the water before adding to the tank. I can't see adding mixing 50% new 6.0 water with 50% 7.4 water in the tank and then adding substances to bring up to 7.4 way to much shifting of the pH to be good for the fish. I now understand what your saying with the Mag sulfate. I guess with my experience I change the water so often(50% weekly) that I never seen a fluxuatiion in pH levels.
 
Bderick67;745445; said:
please explain how this works...

well.. I've only heard stories about the bubbler... ..but I think it's got something to do with the actual airstone..

wood, well.. i had a steady 6.x for a long long time.. put in a log and the pH raised to 7.1-7.3 varied..

I was only told about the bubbler... ..but I'm speaking from experience on the wood.
 
pirahna1950;745686; said:
Has anyone noticed the PH on your tanks can change over time without doing anything?

The pH will change because nitrification uses Alkalinity. Water changes AND gravel cleaning WITH filter maintenance would make this unseen... pH is the balance between Hydrogen and Hyrdoxide ions. 7 meaning they are equal. That is why he adds pH UP (SODIUM HYDROXIDE which is caustic soda)... though he says it goes up little it is a logarithmic scale.
 
Bderick67;745740; said:
Well I think you be better adding the substances to the water before adding to the tank. I can't see adding mixing 50% new 6.0 water with 50% 7.4 water in the tank and then adding substances to bring up to 7.4 way to much shifting of the pH to be good for the fish. I now understand what your saying with the Mag sulfate. I guess with my experience I change the water so often(50% weekly) that I never seen a fluxuatiion in pH levels.

I am not advocating any more than two tenths variances in any 24 hour period, as detailed in another post. To get from 6.0 to 7.6 would require; calculation of the entire dose required of each compound for the entire net volume of the tank, then dividing that dose by eight, this would ensure that no more than 0.2 increases per day to avoid ph shock potentiality. When the entire tank is at the desired value i.e. 7.6, then the full dosing rate would be used of each compound for the given water volume being replaced per water change after that point. In any event I would never endorse 50% water changes unless there was an acute problem/emergency (poisoning etc). I have had many XXL fish over a 30 year period (31.5" RTC, Arowanas, xl Cichlids, Snakeheads) and have never gone over 25% at a single change. As a result I have always had nitrate readings between zero and 20ppm (max). If I wanted to change more per week I would increase the FREQUENCY to 2 or maybe 3 times per week, not the volume.
Then again I use several filtration types, typically external/s plus sump, very high outputs/turnovers, excellent media, plus ozone controlled via a mv/redox computer, over and above high volume and very frequent water changes. The pH is monitored digitally daily and cross referenced against the most accurate test kits in the world, AquaMerck. The trick for early determination of a forthcoming water change for me is primarily pH; when it begins to drop, even very, very slightly over 2 consecutive days then that's an indication of denitrification, on a secondary level a change of the mv/redox reading on the computer also indicates increased denitrification. The need for me to test for nitrate is therefore negligibile, it's only done once per week (AquaMerck) as a cross check and put in my diary/log. You are correct that most people do not have this problem, usually this problem only arises when either people are keeping Rift Lake Cichlids or (like the questioner) are unfortunate to have a wide variance between their tapwater and the desired value they wish to achieve. Hope this makes sense.
 
tfaceon;744010; said:
how do i get my ph up with out using chemicals i need it at about 7.0 to 7.6 my water comes in at 6.0 please help me out i change my water about 50% every 2 weeks :nilly:

Get yourself a piece of Texas Holey Rock for decor... looks good and will raise GH,KH and pH overtime. Use the baking soda to raise both KH and then pH with water changes after this kicks in...
 
Well tfaceon looks like ya got two choices ya can go high tech like this;
Mentzer;746029; said:
I am not advocating any more than two tenths variances in any 24 hour period, as detailed in another post. To get from 6.0 to 7.6 would require; calculation of the entire dose required of each compound for the entire net volume of the tank, then dividing that dose by eight, this would ensure that no more than 0.2 increases per day to avoid ph shock potentiality. When the entire tank is at the desired value i.e. 7.6, then the full dosing rate would be used of each compound for the given water volume being replaced per water change after that point. In any event I would never endorse 50% water changes unless there was an acute problem/emergency (poisoning etc). I have had many XXL fish over a 30 year period (31.5" RTC, Arowanas, xl Cichlids, Snakeheads) and have never gone over 25% at a single change. As a result I have always had nitrate readings between zero and 20ppm (max). If I wanted to change more per week I would increase the FREQUENCY to 2 or maybe 3 times per week, not the volume.
Then again I use several filtration types, typically external/s plus sump, very high outputs/turnovers, excellent media, plus ozone controlled via a mv/redox computer, over and above high volume and very frequent water changes. The pH is monitored digitally daily and cross referenced against the most accurate test kits in the world, AquaMerck. The trick for early determination of a forthcoming water change for me is primarily pH; when it begins to drop, even very, very slightly over 2 consecutive days then that's an indication of denitrification, on a secondary level a change of the mv/redox reading on the computer also indicates increased denitrification. The need for me to test for nitrate is therefore negligibile, it's only done once per week (AquaMerck) as a cross check and put in my diary/log. You are correct that most people do not have this problem, usually this problem only arises when either people are keeping Rift Lake Cichlids or (like the questioner) are unfortunate to have a wide variance between their tapwater and the desired value they wish to achieve. Hope this makes sense.


Or ya can keep it simple such as this;

aquanaut;746038; said:
Get yourself a piece of Texas Holey Rock for decor... looks good and will raise GH,KH and pH overtime. Use the baking soda to raise both KH and then pH with water changes after this kicks in...

I will only comment on the later of the two, since I don't have all that hi tech stuff. An in tank buffer will help keep your pH at a high stable reading. You will how ever need to adjust your pH of your tap water before it is added to the tank, to avoid sudden pH shifts which are not good for your fish.

Once you have figured what your dosage is for the tap water and have added your in tank buffer. Do 10% daily water changes until your pH has reached the desired level. Then go to a schedule of weekly water changes. Once you have acheived this you can then alter to meet your own needs.
 
well thanks for all the info I'm gonna go with just baking soda for now I'm just trying to raise the ph so my guppy's will breed more I'm not gonna go crazy for guppy's i had a rtc and he did fine till he got to big i never tested my water till i was told 7.0 was good for breeding guppy's and barbs
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com