You can supplement feed tangs with sheets of nori. They gobble it up. They dont necisarily have to graze all day on the rock but they do graze in the wild. They will do fine with the nori.
Picking up 220g tonight
- Thread starter aprime11b
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You can supplement feed tangs with sheets of nori. They gobble it up. They dont necisarily have to graze all day on the rock but they do graze in the wild. They will do fine with the nori.
I have a clamp shop light on my fuge. I also have a 24" CF light I can use if needed. Should my LR in sump get some light or is that a waste of energy for the amount of benefits it will provide
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The BB on LR dont need light to survive although you do need a light on your sump/fuge. There are a couple reasons. PH swing. At night when the lights on your DT shut off the PH starts to drop. This happens because without light there cant be photosynthesis. As photosynthesis stops it allows dissolved carbon dioxide to rise. Putting a light in your fuge/sump allows photosunthesis to continue. Another reason is for your macro algae if you are using any. Algae need light to grow allowing them to eat your po4 and no3
My 20g fuge is right next to my 40g sump. The fuge has the light on it, which I stated has 4'' sand bed and 30lbs of rubble/LR and some macro algae. My main question was if the sump needed the CF or is the clamp light on the fuge good enough for under the DT? And I do have the fuge light running opposite of the DT.
My 20g fuge is right next to my 40g sump. The fuge has the light on it, which I stated has 4'' sand bed and 30lbs of rubble/LR and some macro algae. My main question was if the sump needed the CF or is the clamp light on the fuge good enough for under the DT? And I do have the fuge light running opposite of the DT.
Yes your light would run opposite your DT. What wattage is the clamp light? I used a 26w cfl (100w incandesent equiv) on my fuge and it worked fine.
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its a CFL, not sure exactly on watts never looked at bulb but it is fairly bright. Probably in 20-40w range.
Tank was up and running at the house it was broken down at. Same filter media, live sand and live rock was kept alive and put back into tank. So the tank was cycled instantly. If I would have started fresh it would not be cycled.
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no such thing as instantly cycled....
patience is a virtue...you will learn this very quickly or it will be a money pit even faster....
live sand and rock is a bonus...but you have new water.... and new bacteria to build up within the water and the rest of the rock you plan on purchasing.... it's still not done cycling for a long while...i hope your damsels make it through...and it's not the brightest idea to add all of those fish at one time....you want to introduce fish slowly...
Ph raises and lowers with light or lack there of because of ionization. Ionization is the electrons within a molecule getting excited or speed and heat up with the exposure to solar radiation. When electrons are excited or charged they become sticky or bond more easily with other molecules.So when the light is on H20 will bond more easily with SW Alk molecules raising and stabilizing the PH when lites are off it looses it's bonding strength aka Buffering Capacity, but in an extremely small sense.
This works in reverse with de-ionizers. the dio-ionizing chamber/media in an ROO/DI unit removes the charge from the passing H20 thus making it drop more of the undesirables that make it thru TFC membrane.
As for Tangs - a sheet of Norii or seaweed on a clip works just fine - you don't want them grazing on algae on the rocks all day you'd have a huge algae issue. I don't use Norii anymore, instead I use frozen seaweed cubes and mix it in when I make the tanks food - which is another topic you'll need to get your head around.
With SW don't assume anything - test everything and test often this will give you a greater understanding of what and why and where your goin' - What you can and what you can't do - things can get really expensive really quick when things go south.
This works in reverse with de-ionizers. the dio-ionizing chamber/media in an ROO/DI unit removes the charge from the passing H20 thus making it drop more of the undesirables that make it thru TFC membrane.
As for Tangs - a sheet of Norii or seaweed on a clip works just fine - you don't want them grazing on algae on the rocks all day you'd have a huge algae issue. I don't use Norii anymore, instead I use frozen seaweed cubes and mix it in when I make the tanks food - which is another topic you'll need to get your head around.
With SW don't assume anything - test everything and test often this will give you a greater understanding of what and why and where your goin' - What you can and what you can't do - things can get really expensive really quick when things go south.
Thanks for the in depth information. I purchased a reef octopus Skimmer tonight and put it in my sump. I want to ensure the best water quality.
So to date there is a sump, fuge, carbon reactor and protein Skimmer. I have 2 other reactors I may set up if there is room in sump. Waiting on the dry rock I purchased.
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So to date there is a sump, fuge, carbon reactor and protein Skimmer. I have 2 other reactors I may set up if there is room in sump. Waiting on the dry rock I purchased.
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