Piping & flow configuration?

[Andyroo]

Aquarium hydrologists,

In-wall build is 7' long x 3' tall by 17" back-to-front. Wall etc are epoxy'd, glass is on-site & should be set over the next 36~48hrs. (https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/background-colour-thoughts-examples-please.725751/)

Plumbing: There are 2x 1.5" side-by-side pipes rendered into the side walls, in-tank at just below surface adjacent to the back wall (N=4). Pipes trace downwards inside the wall to emerge in the filtration cupboard beneath. Filtration plan is two bucket canisters in series (charcoal settlement & sponge polishing), powered by a mid-size Jaebo.* (yes, there's a drain in the cupboard "just in case")

My question is about how to employ these pipes for best flush. My current plan is to only use the left-side pair (cap the right):
* Intake will be a downward elbow & perforated pipe down the side wall/corner to just above sand.
* Outlet will be a the pipe open from the wall, to jet across the back wall at the surface. This may be via a segment of bambo for directing & aesthetics.

My thought is that this config will give a nice circular flow across, down & back to keep from dead spots, though I'm very open to discussion - would it be better to have intake & outlet on opposite walls?

There's an air stone & Hydor Koralia in the tool-box, so any poo collection point'll get a stirrer.
I'd prefer not to have two systems yet (electricity is costly), though this may also happen. We set 4x pipes to give flexibility through the future.

* Although this was an option-thought within the configuration, not going sump as a) too much electricity lifting water and b) too much moving-water racket & air moisture. I also don't like having to screw with flow-rates, whereas so long as a can don't leak, it just works.

 

[Oughtsix]

Sounds interesting but I can't visualize what you are putting together. A quick sketch, even a hand drawn sketch would make it a lot easier to visualize and comment.

 

[Andyroo]

Agreed. The linked thread will show you the general set-up with in/out pipe ends with the general idea(s).
I'll jot a sketch tonight.

 

[TheWolfman]

I would also like to see a sketch. I don’t understand how a sump would use more electricity then a canister, and would be more concerned of a flood then with a properly set up sump.

 

[Andyroo]

Did a few sketches, & decided spare you my terrible sketch-skills via a couple of snaps. You can see the pipes at the top-back, paired 1.5" twards the back on either side. Both are plumbed through into the cupboard below, with tap & drain & power-point. Water will shoot across that back wall, down & back through the intake. Theoretically reasonably comprehensive & without dead spots, though comment welcome.



Here's a little more detail of the paired pipes. The plan is to set the back one as intake, with a 90elbow and 2.5" perforated pipe (textured or wrapped in bamboo). The exhaust will be that closer pipe either bare or bamboo clad - that frontmost pipe isn't quite square and will blow against & across the back wall.

TheWolfman , from sump to water-top will be just shy of 6' head that would take electricity (money) to lift 24/7. With a can, there's no head-pressure . There is some in-pipe resistance that the larger 1.5" pipe I can mitigate, while a big can (8+gal) or chain of cans (8+12gal) incl. settlement & backwashable portions will reduce the annoyance of cleaning. I've made a few to these over the years.
I've done a couple of sumps for clients and it's always a headache to tune the in & out rates; you say "properly set-up", which I've not mastered ...at all The only issue with a can is leaking, which, yes, can be catastrophic, thus the drain in the cupboard & perforated intake so no more than a few inches can drain unexpectedly.

Yes, doors adjacent & hallway in front will be aesthetically groovy, but stocking will need to err away from the skittish & interior decor towards the calming. White/light sand bottom, plants & mossed bamboo habitat elements are primary in mind. Yes, those above-surface shelves are to have vining/hanging plants; thinking babies-tears rather than creeper (pothos) or other big-leaf stuff that'll cast shadow.

 

[TheWolfman]

I’m just not understanding the intake and the cupboard preventing the intake from draining the tank if a seal went on one of the canisters. I also don’t follow your logic on how pump on a canister filter has any less head pressure then a return in sump would. The build looks great btw.

 

[Backfromthedead]

I’m just not understanding the intake and the cupboard preventing the intake from draining the tank if a seal went on one of the canisters. I also don’t follow your logic on how pump on a canister filter has any less head pressure then a return in sump would. The build looks great btw.

In a closed loop, the gravitational force feeding the pump would offset the head loss, once the loop is primed and running only friction losses in the plumbing will limit the pump. Any can works like this as long as the intake and output are submerged and work best if theyre at the same level.

 

[TwoHedWlf]

I would also like to see a sketch. I don’t understand how a sump would use more electricity then a canister, and would be more concerned of a flood then with a properly set up sump.

Canister filters don't have any static head to work against, only dynamic. While a sump does have static head. So all else being equal a sump will need more power and bigger pump for the same flow.

 

[Andyroo]

TheWolfman
Re "intake and the cupboard preventing the intake from draining the tank if a seal went":
the perforated inlet pipe will allow air in at & by a known leak-level, let's say starting at 3" below water level. This will break any the syphon & impede the pump before too much water goes so I won't lose fish in a catastrophic leak. Leak-water will go down into the cupboard drain, as will backwash & rinse-wash & other oopses & drips.

Thanks for the compliment - it is coming out nice but I'm trying not to jinx it
... no formal comment until fish are settled.

 

[TheWolfman]

I didn’t know that the head pressure was equalized by the drain pressure in a closed loop. I just assumed it would be working harder the more head height there is. I’ve never got the advertised gph out of any canister There’s always something to lean on here. The cupboard drain makes sense now, and is a great piece of insurance well done Andyroo