Planning a new acrylic tank from scratch.
- Thread starter IndicaINA
- Start date
The "pin and shim" method is what I was refering to. The pins are used to form a gap between the two pieces so that thicker solvents like Weld-on 16 can flow into. The shims are used to raise the bottom piece if you're working on an uneven surface or if your cuts aren't square. This is still bonding a butt joint.
Okay, I have searched far and wide for weld on 4. and i couldn't find it. so I think I have to use the active chemical Dichloromethane instead. now if I am not mistaken the different numbers on weld on is to indicate the thickness of the solvent(?). if i use Dichloromethane would it be possible just to add very thin scraps of acrylic and mix it in with Dichloromethane to produce a thicker solvent?
Amazon has it. http://www.amazon.com/Weld-On-4-Acrylic-Adhesive-Pint/dp/B003HNLA4W
Or the thicker one is Weld-on 16
http://www.amazon.com/Weld-On-16-Ac...518&sr=8-2&keywords=weld-on+16+acrylic+cement
Weld-on 3 and 4 are water thin but #4 is a faster setting type. I've used Weld-on 4 on a tank about 5 years ago to get the initial set. I then used #16 and ran a bead on the inside like you would with silicone on a glass tank. I made a 4 gallon container a year ago just using Weld-on 4. All the seams were clear with no air bubbles but one side let go as I picked it up to use a few months later. I have since been using Weld-on 16 only
Or the thicker one is Weld-on 16
http://www.amazon.com/Weld-On-16-Ac...518&sr=8-2&keywords=weld-on+16+acrylic+cement
Weld-on 3 and 4 are water thin but #4 is a faster setting type. I've used Weld-on 4 on a tank about 5 years ago to get the initial set. I then used #16 and ran a bead on the inside like you would with silicone on a glass tank. I made a 4 gallon container a year ago just using Weld-on 4. All the seams were clear with no air bubbles but one side let go as I picked it up to use a few months later. I have since been using Weld-on 16 only
You have to have a plastic shop local to you. Start using Google and try plastic and acrylic stores in your area
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thanks mate, i will try to look for it or order it via a sign shop, if that doesn't work then i will check amazon out.
Yeah i did use google, and the plastic store in my area doesn't supply any acrylic or welding solvents they had no clue what i was talking about.lol..all they had was straws, plastic cups (the disposable one's), styrofoam and thats it.
but tomorrow i am going to a sign maker (the acrylic signs and whatnot with flashy lights), i think/hope they will have an what i am looking for.
Btw, im thinking on using a bottom drain with the whirling air pump, got the idea from koi ponds to my sump. so my question is, when the electricity fails will the water spill or is there a way to make it work?
Thanks guys
Try to Google "Acrylic Sheets". That would hopefully show you acrylic fabricators in your area.
I think the bottom drain would siphon the tank unless there was a way to install and siphon break.
I think the bottom drain would siphon the tank unless there was a way to install and siphon break.
either gluing method can be good or bad depending on how good you are with it but whatever you find will work. I use weld on #4,#16, and #40 on different jobs. I find the #16 to be the weakest because its easy to create bubbles when applying. #4 is very strong but can take practice to get good at making crystal clear joints. Ive built alot of tanks with #4 before i learned and purchaced the #40. Professionally built aquariums use Weld on #40. This is a 2 part epoxy similiar to #16 and leaves you with a crystal joint every time. Far superior to #4 or #16. With #40 you can build the tank one panel at a time then apply the bottom and top of the tank last. You can even add crystal seams like you would silicone on the inside for extra re-inforcement. I re-inforce all my acrylic tanks in this fashion for peace of mind when i get a used one. I've even put back together exploded tanks lol...#40 is amazing stuff well worth the extra cash for it.
