Hello,
I was recommended to start a thread so here goes!
I recently found a broken 220 gallon aquarium. I plan to separate the pieces and make a large "L" corner aquarium with the glass that is usable. I've been looking at builds and have an idea of what these need to look like to not leak. I enjoyed watching the video of the tank that is still running. I've built some of my own stuff including plumbing, a sump, a hood, and a stand. I feel I am capable of most of the ideas here and would like to employ them.
End goal:
My wife likes saltwater tanks that are very colorful. The theme behind this tank will be maximum color and vibrancy. We are not particular on fish or coral choice other than color. I do plan to have here make some selections of fish and begin working on an ideal biotope. The footprint will be 36-38 square feet and I feel the possibilities will be in decent variety. My one contribution to stocking preference would be a cow fish.
Projected ideal build:
The tank: This aquarium will be tall enough to see over the back of the sofa so a sofa could sit in front of it ( I have an idea for sofa movement; no fish ignorance here) and the materials will be the two main viewing glass panes on the inside corner of the tank, the two side panes on the end caps, and plywood framing the glass as well as walling in the back as well as floor of the aquarium. If I get lucky, (haven't seen the crack to know the pattern or severity) I'll use the bottom pane as a viewing panel at a 45 degree angle between the main panes to provide less blind spot and larger area for coral growth. I would use plywood for bracing as well and would like to acrylic finish these pieces. If need be, I would pond armor the braces as well as sides and inside bottom. I plan to follow Uaru Joey's build video for his 375 gal build as it has a finished look and purpose I am aimed at producing. I am somewhat concerned about light penetration and would like to consider braces that are vertical rather than horizontal to allow for more light penetration. I believe this would be beneficial for the coral. Likewise, I am unopposed to using lead pipes with pond armor coating to again allow better light coverage. I think this would be possible with some kind of plate to provide the necessary surface area to brace the wood from bowing.
The stand: I think enough would could support it.... I think maybe for this build (500-600 gallons), I would be better served with some 2x4s for cushion and distribution directly under the tank bottom and then some cinder blocks. I would skirt this with a cabinet finish since this will be in the living room. The finish would likely be a gloss black upwards of acrylic. Every time I bring home an aquarium to restore, she paints it black.
The canopy: If I can get by with it, I'll build my own LED lights and suspend them from the ceiling or something I attach to the rim of the aquarium. She may or may not be interested in the whole separated box. I could see how it could be useful as a moisture collector and I would vent to the carport. A 38 square foot water footprint has to evaporate a sizable amount of water into the air. I can't see it any other way. For the lids, I have glass on other aquariums I could make work for this project.
The filtration: Because this is plywood, I feel this will be very easy to plumb. I plan to use two or three sumps. I have a 125 gallon aquarium that just needs a brace and a 55 gallon aquarium in the same condition. I have a 45 gallon that needs a pane and I have it. I'm just lazy and try not to blow a whole tube of silicone on one job. I usually repair 5 or more tanks at a time to get the most bang for my buck on scrap money. Yes, I fund my hobby with people's broken tanks. It works! I'd like to use three or four overflows to send water down and hold a steady water level. I haven't wrapped my head around how to keep the overflows functioning during a water change and keep my pumps from burning up from the absence of water. I have a 375 gallon tote I bought for preparing water. I'm not worried about hours of buckets. It has a 2 1/2" flood gate so I imagine I could get water in at least as fast as I could get it out if I keep the volume of water the same or less as it leaves compared to what comes in. I have no idea if saltwater fish or coral like to have water move a certain direction or what. I thought I would use a variety of spray nozzles to reintroduce water into the tank on the return side of the sump. Top/Middle/Bottom/Rear/Front as long as I can hide it behind coral or plywood. I just don't like to see wires or other non-organic structures inside the water column. As far as dead spots and water circulation, I wanted to do wave controllers. How many? I don't know. How many nozzles where and what gph? I don't know. Feel free to offer suggestions. This build will start once our finances calm down from moving into the house we just bought and will be built piece by piece.
Cycling: I like mountain bikes. I have done freshwater till now. I usually take tank water from another tank and put that in with water and run the filtration. The largest I've ever cycled was 125 gallons. I don't have a clue how best to do saltwater. I do know that we won't populate this thing fully and immediately. We'll likely start with a couple of coral choices and some clowns. That seems to be the starter pack I've seen over the years. I don't think this tank will have full occupation till a year after cycling. No worries about bio-load shock here! Anyone have suggestions on cycling tips? Are algae scrubbers a good idea or is that counter intuitive like a tank with plants?
I was recommended to start a thread so here goes!
I recently found a broken 220 gallon aquarium. I plan to separate the pieces and make a large "L" corner aquarium with the glass that is usable. I've been looking at builds and have an idea of what these need to look like to not leak. I enjoyed watching the video of the tank that is still running. I've built some of my own stuff including plumbing, a sump, a hood, and a stand. I feel I am capable of most of the ideas here and would like to employ them.
End goal:
My wife likes saltwater tanks that are very colorful. The theme behind this tank will be maximum color and vibrancy. We are not particular on fish or coral choice other than color. I do plan to have here make some selections of fish and begin working on an ideal biotope. The footprint will be 36-38 square feet and I feel the possibilities will be in decent variety. My one contribution to stocking preference would be a cow fish.
Projected ideal build:
The tank: This aquarium will be tall enough to see over the back of the sofa so a sofa could sit in front of it ( I have an idea for sofa movement; no fish ignorance here) and the materials will be the two main viewing glass panes on the inside corner of the tank, the two side panes on the end caps, and plywood framing the glass as well as walling in the back as well as floor of the aquarium. If I get lucky, (haven't seen the crack to know the pattern or severity) I'll use the bottom pane as a viewing panel at a 45 degree angle between the main panes to provide less blind spot and larger area for coral growth. I would use plywood for bracing as well and would like to acrylic finish these pieces. If need be, I would pond armor the braces as well as sides and inside bottom. I plan to follow Uaru Joey's build video for his 375 gal build as it has a finished look and purpose I am aimed at producing. I am somewhat concerned about light penetration and would like to consider braces that are vertical rather than horizontal to allow for more light penetration. I believe this would be beneficial for the coral. Likewise, I am unopposed to using lead pipes with pond armor coating to again allow better light coverage. I think this would be possible with some kind of plate to provide the necessary surface area to brace the wood from bowing.
The stand: I think enough would could support it.... I think maybe for this build (500-600 gallons), I would be better served with some 2x4s for cushion and distribution directly under the tank bottom and then some cinder blocks. I would skirt this with a cabinet finish since this will be in the living room. The finish would likely be a gloss black upwards of acrylic. Every time I bring home an aquarium to restore, she paints it black.
The canopy: If I can get by with it, I'll build my own LED lights and suspend them from the ceiling or something I attach to the rim of the aquarium. She may or may not be interested in the whole separated box. I could see how it could be useful as a moisture collector and I would vent to the carport. A 38 square foot water footprint has to evaporate a sizable amount of water into the air. I can't see it any other way. For the lids, I have glass on other aquariums I could make work for this project.
The filtration: Because this is plywood, I feel this will be very easy to plumb. I plan to use two or three sumps. I have a 125 gallon aquarium that just needs a brace and a 55 gallon aquarium in the same condition. I have a 45 gallon that needs a pane and I have it. I'm just lazy and try not to blow a whole tube of silicone on one job. I usually repair 5 or more tanks at a time to get the most bang for my buck on scrap money. Yes, I fund my hobby with people's broken tanks. It works! I'd like to use three or four overflows to send water down and hold a steady water level. I haven't wrapped my head around how to keep the overflows functioning during a water change and keep my pumps from burning up from the absence of water. I have a 375 gallon tote I bought for preparing water. I'm not worried about hours of buckets. It has a 2 1/2" flood gate so I imagine I could get water in at least as fast as I could get it out if I keep the volume of water the same or less as it leaves compared to what comes in. I have no idea if saltwater fish or coral like to have water move a certain direction or what. I thought I would use a variety of spray nozzles to reintroduce water into the tank on the return side of the sump. Top/Middle/Bottom/Rear/Front as long as I can hide it behind coral or plywood. I just don't like to see wires or other non-organic structures inside the water column. As far as dead spots and water circulation, I wanted to do wave controllers. How many? I don't know. How many nozzles where and what gph? I don't know. Feel free to offer suggestions. This build will start once our finances calm down from moving into the house we just bought and will be built piece by piece.
Cycling: I like mountain bikes. I have done freshwater till now. I usually take tank water from another tank and put that in with water and run the filtration. The largest I've ever cycled was 125 gallons. I don't have a clue how best to do saltwater. I do know that we won't populate this thing fully and immediately. We'll likely start with a couple of coral choices and some clowns. That seems to be the starter pack I've seen over the years. I don't think this tank will have full occupation till a year after cycling. No worries about bio-load shock here! Anyone have suggestions on cycling tips? Are algae scrubbers a good idea or is that counter intuitive like a tank with plants?
