Platystomatichthys Sturio Care Guide

TheReefer

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Image result for sturgeon catfish



Scientific Name: Platystomatichthys Sturio

Common Name: Zorro Catfish, Sturio Catfish, Sturgeon Catfish, Fox Catfish


Endemic to: The fast flowing rivers of the Amazon River Basin


Size: This fish gets to be around 17 inches (43.2 cm) including the caudal fin, with the barbels making the fish much longer (closer to 30 inches)


Tank Size: A single adult specimen should be kept in a minimum of a 220 (72”x30”x24” inches) gallon (833 liter, 183x76x61 cm) to keep it healthy and happy, a larger tank would be better as this fish can damage it’s snout on the glass and other decorations (note the tank must be atleast 30 inches (76 cm) wide to allow turning room for the fish as the fish can easily damage it’s sensitive snout). Most of these fish in captivity end up getting damaged, upturned snouts because they are kept in too small of a tank, and the fact this fish is very skittish and easily startled by sudden noises, sudden movements, sudden light, and aggression from tankmates makes the problem even worse.

Image result for sturgeon catfish


Note that in this picture the one in the front as a badly upturned snout, but the one in the back doesn’t, that’s because the one in the front was in too small of a tank and got startled and banged it’s snout on the glass


Water Parameters: This fish likes a pH of 6-7.5 with softer water, a good way to do this is to have driftwood and other botanicals (almond leaves, seed pods, alder cones, etc.) in the tank (note the pH should be kept stable as sudden changes can result in severe stress for the fish). The temperature should be within the 70-77 F range (21-25). Like with all fish, this fish needs a tank with no ammonia, no nitrite, and less than 20 ppm of nitrates.


Temperament: This fish is relatively peaceful towards larger tankmates, though it will eat smaller fish that will fit in it’s mouth, so no fish under 6 inches (15 cm)


Diet: This fish is an omnivore and should be fed a mix of meaty items (both live and frozen, though live feeders are not necessary and are only suitable if you raise them on your own and make sure they are gutloaded and disease/parasite free), plant matter , and a high quality pellet (both carnivore and herbivore), good brands include Northfin, New Life Spectrum, Hikari, and Omega One.


Tank Set Up: The ideal tank setup would be a tank of 220+ gallons (833 liters)with plenty of water movement. The tank should have some cover and hiding spots in the form of rocks, driftwood, and plants but make sure the fish has plenty of space to swim, move, and turn. The fish likes to swim in one spot against the current, so it is recommended to have a strong filter or powerhead point in one direction going the length of the tank.Tankmates: Any medium sized fish (6-12 inches or 15-30.5 cm) that is not overly aggressive that is native to the Amazon RiverBasin and surrounding areas, some good tankmates include geophagus cichlids, larger rainbow fish, jewel cichlids, keyhole cichlids, Jaupuri cichlids, firemouth cichlids, chocolate cichlids, the flag cichlid, and the cupid cichlid.


Breeding: I could not find any documented cases of this fish being bred in captivity.



Special Thanks to duanes, kno4te, and thebiggerthebetter for helping me with this care guide
 

thebiggerthebetter

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FWIW, the back one in the second photo has a damaged snout tip too, just a smaller portion of the snout versus the front fish and it is bent down, not up. Not surprising to me. IMHE, 99% of these fish feature damaged snouts in captivity. IME too can be finicky to get to recognize new feed types. Loves to swim in current in one spot.
 
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TheReefer

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FWIW, the back one in the second photo has a damaged snout tip too, just a smaller portion of the snout versus the front fish and it is bent down, not up. Not surprising to me. IMHE, 99% of these fish feature damaged snouts in captivity. IME too can be finicky to get to recognize new feed types. Loves to swim in current in one spot.
Didn't realize that, thanks for pointing that out. I honestly saw so many pictures where they had a damaged snout that I thought that's how they were supposed to look until you told me otherwise
 

fishhead0103666

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thebiggerthebetter thebiggerthebetter I've noticed that almost all of these that I see have their snouts bent upwards while the picture posted by op was the first that I've seen that I've seen that was bent downwards. Do you have any idea why they tend to get their snouts bent upwards instead of downwards?
 
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TheReefer

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thebiggerthebetter thebiggerthebetter I've noticed that almost all of these that I see have their snouts bent upwards while the picture posted by op was the first that I've seen that I've seen that was bent downwards. Do you have any idea why they tend to get their snouts bent upwards instead of downwards?
It was explained in the care guide, but it's because they are kept in tanks too small and as this species is prone to darting, they tend to smash their snouts on the glass and decorations. I honestly thought that they were meant to have snouts pointed upwards because all but 1 (the first picture) that I have seen have had snouts pointed up
 
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thebiggerthebetter

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It was explained in the care guide, but it's because they are kept in tanks too small and as this species is prone to darting, they tend to smash their snouts on the glass and decorations. I honestly thought that they were meant to have snouts pointed upwards because all but 1 (the first picture) that I have seen have had snouts pointed up
It was explained in the care guide, but it's because they are kept in tanks too small and as this species is prone to darting, they tend to smash their snouts on the glass and decorations. I honestly thought that they were meant to have snouts pointed upwards because all but 1 (the first picture) that I have seen have had snouts pointed up
Right but the guide doesn't explain why pretty much all snouts are damaged in the way where they turned up, not down, which was the inquiry is.

As you can see, in the snout pointing down only the very tip broke. I think eventually, if the damaging continues, the whole snout will turn up anyway. But I don't know the answer to your question. One thing is obvious, with the snout down it'd be much harder to feed. Perhaps also the fish tend to start pulling up a little right before hitting a wall at high speed, like a pilot would with a plane that's about to hit a mountain side of some such. Pull up! Pull up!

A couple of older threads:
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/platystomaichthys-sturio.589651/
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/...eon-catfish-platystomatichthys-sturio.546668/
 
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fishhead0103666

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That’s a sound idea which makes sense. Going off of the same logic, the one with the down turned snout could have been swimming in the middle and instead of turning up he turned downwards.
 

Fishman Dave

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My jury is still out on this one.
If there is one species of fish in which a bent snout appears almost to be a genetic trait, maybe even a design feature then this is it. I am not convinced that the usual rule of too small a tank applies in all cases as I have seen perfect examples in more than adequate conditions "grow" a bent snout over the first year and seen other very small specimens wild caught with them already bent.
I just don't know.


As for the bent down tip of the snout - yes probably broken after a smash into glass!
 
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