PLEASE HELP!

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MrsBoring

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Oct 15, 2020
10
4
3
Have you tested your water?
Yes
If yes, what is your ammonia?
0
If yes, what is your nitrite?
0
If yes, what is your nitrate?
Unknown
If I did not test my water...
  1. ...I recognize that I will likely be asked to do a test, and that water tests are critical for solving freshwater health problems.
Do you do water changes?
Yes
What percentage of water do you change?
31-40%
How frequently do you change your water?
Every two weeks
If I do not change my water...
  1. ...I recognize that I will likely be recommended to do a water change, and water changes are critical for preventing future freshwater health problems.
My flowerhorn is sick, he’s not eating, I treated him a couple weeks ago for parasites and he got better for a few days and now this:

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I believe it was API General Cure. I didn’t save the package. It was a powder that had to be added for multiple days and then followed by a water change.
The reason I treated him with this is because he had stopped eating and seemed lethargic. He also had long white stringy poop. So I treated him and then he went back to normal, eating and acting like himself. But then he stopped eating again and has these white bubbly patches and isn’t himself at all.
 
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Reactions: tlindsey
I believe you need to address the underlying cause.
I consider a 30-40% water change every two weeks inadequate, and would imagine doubling or tripling that frequency may address the underlying problem.
Especially if your tank is under 100 gallons, small tank water quality degrades much faster,
You should also get a test kit to find out your water parameters, they would help you determine what a proper water change amount and schedule would be in your personal situation.
Generally speaking
I consider a nitrate reading of 10ppm is call for a water change, be it weekly or even every 2 days, however quickly nitrate builds up.
I usually do a 20% water change every day on my 180 gallon.
 
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Reactions: Magnus_Bane
In addition to the good advice above, I would add that when treating for internal parasites, it is critical that 1) large, frequent water changes are made (with re-plenishment of med during treatment), and 2) that the aquarium bottom, filter intakes (EVERYTHING) is scrupulously vacuumed-up during changes. The idea of the treatment is to have internal parasites be expelled out of the fish; many (but not all) come out dead, and some eggs/larvae can remain viable. If not removed, fish can re-infect themselves. It happens frequently.
I don't know what is the mucus-looking stuff on your filter intake, and also the fish (beautiful, by the way) has stringy stuff hanging beneath. I would have that stuff removed completely and continue treatment.
I do not know what the white patches are, possibly excess mucus produced by the fish in an attempt o repel some irritant (medicines, other items).
Good luck!
 
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