Plumbing question
- Thread starter jyabs7
- Start date
That would make sense. I tried again after cleaning up the threads, still leaks both the cold and hot water side. With your explanation in mind, i pushed down (towards the valve) on the braided line and it stopped leaking. Is there supposed to be something else in the valve side? Or would finding a small rubber washer to fit in there help any? I tried hand tight, half turn with the wrench, enough to where i thought anymore would bust the valve, and still leaking.
I have a bunch of these https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...VSh-tBh3yuw8FEAQYAiABEgI7qvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
They all have a rubber washer inside them, and they all leak unless i push them in. maybe i should try some sort of a coupler? all i know is it's going to take a lot of 5 gallon buckets to get 200 gallons of water downstairs so i'm game for any redneck way of making this work without cutting the valves off
No thats a compression fitting. The inside of the pipe needs to be shaped like an inverted pyramid. This is assuming the hose end seal looks like a pyramid, most do. The valve looks like a standard hose bib style. Try a garden hose?
Looking at the pic its exactly what I was thinking. That valve isnt set up to receive that style hose. You'll need an adapter or a different hose.
Looking at the pic its exactly what I was thinking. That valve isnt set up to receive that style hose. You'll need an adapter or a different hose.
if the garden hose works, do you think there's any concerns about just using two stubby garden hoses to run to the faucet?
If they did not work, then as the example you showed and stated at first it may be a compression ring. did not look like one to me. if thats the case its made for a soled line not a hose. you can replace the valve with a modern day valve/fitting, or buy one with a stem to hose to work. I would replace the valve to modern specks.
