ply tank leaks

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Bellawitz said:
Can't you just liquid rubber the tank, and just do fiberglass only around where the windows would go...so silicone would stick?
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That's exactly what I did. I got the idea from another builder here.

flip_mode said:
just looked and it runs about 18-20 a tube so figure 3 tubes? is that a cost effective option?
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It costs $12.50 a tube over here. I used 3 1/2 tubes of GE 1 for my glass (72" x 20") with 1 1/4" border. For $18-20 a tube of 3M, IMO it'll be worth it If it bonds to LR and I don't have to go through the hassle of fiberglassing.
 
good idea then. that will be the way i will go. so we know that the 3m wills tick to the liquid rubber but does anyone know how well the liquid rubber will stick to glass? i was thinking after the glass install to touch up the border areas with it.
 
Liquid rubber will not stick to glass and cured silicone. I tried it, even after a week you can easily scrape it off.
 
no that wouldn't work the liquid rubber does not bond with the wood in the way that say paint does. With the liquid rubber you have to think that you are basically painting a big rubber bag, lining the inside of your tank, it has to be seamless. Besides what you are suggesting still wouldn't work because the rubber and silicone do not bond well enough and you would still be creating a seam where thay would need to overlap. It just won't work.
 
I've never had any leaks on my builds. I think if you are having trouble w/ epoxy cracking or being too brittle, then you are using the wrong epoxy. if it cures as 100% solids then it may be brittle to an extent. Ive used sweetwater epoxy paint which is not 100% solids when cured. If you've ever tried to stretch a piece of this epoxy, it will give and not break. So in theory it will flex w/ the wood. But fiberglass or use fillet in the corners and you will not have trouble with your corners IMO.
 
KLee79, I think you may be misunderstanding terminology with epoxy. Once it is cured, all epoxy is 100% solids. That terminology means that the liquid state either has thinner - "carriers" or not. If they do, such as mineral spirits, the carrier evaporates during cure and the final material occupies a smaller volume due to the evaporation process. 100% solids epoxies are very flexible; I don't have stats in front of me but most are up to 20 times more resilient to breaking than wood. I personally will not used thinned epoxy due to the volume change during cure.

side note: I use about a gallon a month of epoxy! For boats use WestSystems. For everything else I use Envirotex from Menards. The main difference is flow; boat epoxy does not flow very much and great for vertical surfaces.
 
captainahab said:
KLee79, I think you may be misunderstanding terminology with epoxy. Once it is cured, all epoxy is 100% solids. That terminology means that the liquid state either has thinner - "carriers" or not. If they do, such as mineral spirits, the carrier evaporates during cure and the final material occupies a smaller volume due to the evaporation process. 100% solids epoxies are very flexible; I don't have stats in front of me but most are up to 20 times more resilient to breaking than wood. I personally will not used thinned epoxy due to the volume change during cure.

side note: I use about a gallon a month of epoxy! For boats use WestSystems. For everything else I use Envirotex from Menards. The main difference is flow; boat epoxy does not flow very much and great for vertical surfaces.
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Thanks for the correction. I dont know where people are getting that epoxy is brittle then..Everything I've read about epoxy is that it is flexible. Especially compared to polyester resins...
 
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